*
Porch roof. Structure is W14 x 35 beams topped by 2 x 8’s supporting 12″
TJI’s supporting 1/2″ pt plywood. 2 x 8’s beneath beam, too, as nailer.
Total depth: ~25″. Faced w/ 1/2″ pt plywood. Searching for finishing
material/technique for fascia.
Initially planned to stucco to match rest of house. But practical
considerations make that impractical. (Would have to work while lying on
roof be/c we’re on a mountain slope too steep to scaffold or crane to
reach.)
Lately thinking cementious fiberboard–full sheets ripped, not siding. Read
lots of archives about trimming and caulking this at corners and at butt
joints. But what to do at the bottom edge, where it would become somewhat
of a drip edge, gutters notwithstanding. Would painting the raw fiberboard
edge be sufficient?
Any better suggestions for the fascia? Thanks.
Replies
*
Who's your over-engineer? :)
*We need a picture. We really need one.
*
Drawing attached, I hope. Don't have photo yet. Change the total depth to about 29"--my math was wrong. Does this help?
*That's a heck of a lot better than being told it's under-engineered! Actually, at a length of 63' with 8' and 13' cantilevers at either end, and supporting about 1000 sq ft of roof 25' above grade, being over-engineered gives me confidence every time I climb up there! (And it _was_ engineered--I didn't just wing it.)
*
Is the drawing a roof, or a floor system?
YOu mention that it is a porch roof. So why can't you project a scaffold out past the column?
blue
*Jim K - Are you saying that the 18" concrete columns are 25' tall and the W14 spans 42 feet? Hell of a porch if so. I'm frankly at a loss for what to suggest as a fascia.
*
Yes, you have it clear.
*devil, the drawing is the roof. The poured floor is 16' beneath the roof (elevated 9' above grade). We've tried the extension brackets on our scaffold, but they don't get us far enough beyond the fascia to stand, let alone work safely. And from the face of the porch the land slopes 45 degrees, w/ a boulder retaining wall "protecting" the columns and their footers. Scaffolding that would be a nightmare. Consensus of all tradespeople on job was to work from roof w/ whatever material. Question is, what is best low-maintenance fascia material for this? I guessed cementious fiberboard be/c they have stucco-look 4x8's that can be ripped and butt-joined along span. But I don't know if the rain rolling to its bottom edge, and maybe soaking in before dripping off, would be hazardous to it's longevity. Or if something else is better...
*
Hi Jim,
You stated that scaffolding was out of the question because of the slope and that eliminated a crane.
If you have preference on the material and look of the finished product and it's only the method of installation that is stopping you, why can't you use a man platform slung from a crane positioned on the other side of your house?
Another method would be to use a swing stage over the edge. Your roof seems solid enough to hold the weight.
Talk to your engineer about this idea.
There is always a way to do the job.
Gabe
*
Thanks for thoughts. Crane only has one access route and we learned
when erecting the steel that the only cranes that can reach the site
could no longer reach the area in discussion. No access to other side
or rear. Plus at some point it's not cost effective to rent that size
crane for a relatively small amt of stucco work.
Will check into swing stage.
Stucco isn't requirement, just first idea until site difficulties
entered in. Only limit on material is low-maintenance and fit w/ rest
of house. So, for example, cedar shingles wouldn't look right be/c we
don't use them elsewhere. Not trying to be purist in solutions, which
is why I'm considering Hardi and other ideas.
*Can you use mineral shingles? Even hardiplank has to be painted. Can siding material be pre-installed on a backer and lower the whole section? A cantilever platform that directs the weight to the ceiling? Additionally, I just bought a body harness and a lannard for about $100.00.
*
Jim,
With all those 18" columns you should be able to use some sort of welded steel collars around the columns to support a standing platform. Some angle iron and a cracker-box welder should do the trick. You can rent the welder and sell the angle iron as scrap when you're done. As for the fascia, I'd use flat or standing seam metal (either copper or paint grip) you can turn out a drip edge in the bottom of it to divert water.
Good luck,
Ed. Williams
*i you should be able to use some sort of welded steel collars around the columns to support a standing platformYeah, but how does he reach the 21' to the center of the fascia from each column?Jeff
*I've often cantilevered scaffolds out for fascia work.I wouldn't bother to weld onto the steel. I'd just send out some beefy lumber (2x10's) and brace them up to the ceiling, while providing a fulcrum at the wall line.blue
*Hey Jeff,You know, I haven't seen your suggestions yet. You got any?Ed. Williams
*Blue,Lumber works for me, but I want to build it if I'm gonna stand on it. Too bad someone like you and me can't be there.Ed. Williams
*what am i missing ?..y can't u stage it with alum-a-pole and 24 foot pics?my alumapole will climb to 48 feet and 3 poles will give me 72 feet of stage with a work bench and safety netting..once it's staged .. u decide what u want for fascia...b but hey, whadda i no ?
*
>once it's staged .. u decide what u want for fascia...
All the thoughts on alternative ways to scaffold the place are certainly welcomed and appreciated. But I'm really using the difficulty of doing that as a catalyst to question if my original choice of material is in fact the best choice. Y'all may have better material suggestions that I don't know about or overlooked. We _have_ figured out all kinds of ways to safely reach all kinds of places on our site, and are 95% complete.
But my original query--perhaps not worded optimally--still holds interest to me: what are good materials for a 29" vert fascia for a house that's mostly stucco and concrete. Is cementious-fiberboard good for this application (I could ask [email protected], but I already think I know their answer :) )? If it is good, is mere paint sufficient to protect the cut bottom edge from the ravages of water dripping down the face? Is something else better? Once we pick a material, we'll be fine in rigging up a way to apply it. I just don't want to be overlooking a better alternative be/c of having too much stucco on my brain. Regards, Jim
*
Jim,
I still like metal (copper would be best) but it may not work with your exterior scheme. Most of us did read your question as to how to access this area.
Ed. Williams
*
Thanks for suggestion. We do have copper flashing around chimney. I'm
giving it serious thought.
The difference be/t reading my question as "what material?" vs "how to
access?" is totally on my shoulders. It's the writer's job to be
clear.
So, copper, stucco, other metal, Hardi, mineral shingles are some of
the possibilities thus far. Hmmmmm, tough choice...
*
I love copper also, but it has a nasty habit of staining stucco in my region (LA). I think you have answered your own question.
what are good materials for a 29" vert vetia for a house that's mostly stucco and concrete
Stucco
Hardi is not going to give you a clean smooth finished look in my
opinion
David
*Jim,It looks like there's a lip on top of the column to set the hardie rips onto. That would be handy for installation from above, but you should probably bevel the top edge of the column and the bottom edge of the fascia (whatever the material -- unless you use metal) to shed water better. Check manufacturer specs for edge treatments. I would think that a couple of coats of high grade exterior paint and gravity ought to do the trick.Copper sounds great if you can afford it. More affordable metals can also look great. Metal would add sharp, smooth contrast to the rough stucco surface. Hardie would be less of a contrasting surface, but could be painted to either blend or contrast.Hardie panels are pretty damn heavy to work with, but if they're only 2-1/2 foot rips it won't be that bad (I had to hang a porch ceiling as well as a three foot overhang around a house once and found it to be very challenging pectorally.Very challenging.Maybe you could use MDO. That's lighter and much more pleasant to work with.But then again, copper would be nice if you could afford it...Send us a photo.Dan
*
Thanks for thorough response, Dan. Gives me food for thought.
>Maybe you could use MDO.
MDO? Medium Density _________????? Pardon, my ignorance is showing.
*
MDO.....Medium Density Overlay..
usuually finished one side ... looks like good quality kraft paper on the finished side.. but it is exterior rated and it loves paint..
goood one side or two...
3/8
1/2
or 3/4 common thickness
4x8 sheets unless special order..
often used in panel construction.....with appliqued moldings..
b but hey, whadda i no ?
*Hey Ed,That Stanley Cup sure looked good being hoisted and skated around Dallas ice by New Jersey last week? Just like I told yea, six games.The cup belongs in the north. Jeff
*Hey Jeff,Congrats on the Hocky win. You guys earned it. Great series. Just too bad it didn't go the distance and you might have won on your own turf. The Devils played hard and won. I think I finally learned the rules to hocky during this set of games. You have to understand that Texas is not the home base for the game of hocky.We won it fair and square last year.........but not too many of our players........well NONE of our players are Southern Boys.Next year.......watch out!!!The summers are so hot here it's driving a lot of the kids to the hocky rinks. Who knows.......maybe one year there may be a great hocky player named Billy Bob Nelson. "The Great Nelson"? Just doesn't have the ring.......Ed. Williams
*
Porch roof. Structure is W14 x 35 beams topped by 2 x 8's supporting 12"
TJI's supporting 1/2" pt plywood. 2 x 8's beneath beam, too, as nailer.
Total depth: ~25". Faced w/ 1/2" pt plywood. Searching for finishing
material/technique for fascia.
Initially planned to stucco to match rest of house. But practical
considerations make that impractical. (Would have to work while lying on
roof be/c we're on a mountain slope too steep to scaffold or crane to
reach.)
Lately thinking cementious fiberboard--full sheets ripped, not siding. Read
lots of archives about trimming and caulking this at corners and at butt
joints. But what to do at the bottom edge, where it would become somewhat
of a drip edge, gutters notwithstanding. Would painting the raw fiberboard
edge be sufficient?
Any better suggestions for the fascia? Thanks.