When our house was built in 1990, we used a metal roof and the infamous L-P siding for fascia boards. OOPS. It was painted front and back before installation, or would not have lasted this long. So, what to use that will be the same width and thickness, will be durable, and not cause a problem with gutters that are also being replaced? We would expect to paint before installation again.
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Cedar of the same width and thickness.
Common cedar won't last 10 years. At least not in the climate here.Maybe with better quality western red you might do better.We used GP PrimeTrim when we resided about 20 years ago, and I've not been disappointed with the performance of it.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
"what to use that will be the same width and thickness"
Would you like to share what those dimensions are for those of us who have not used LP junk?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
8" wide, 3/8" thick. Millions of homeowners thought that stuff would be OK!
3/8" thick??? What you mean is that millions of builders thought they could get away with it (and they did).
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
going to be hard to find a decent product that thin. Is there a subfascia?Since you have a metal roof already, I wonder if wrapping this face with coil stock would take care of you? The way the vinyl siding guys do things?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Subfascia? No. "Coil stock"?? DUH--you are talking to someone who reads Fine Homebuilding to try to get educated, and doesn't know much!
Lots of conflicting opinions so far. Now, if I could find two of you guys who completely agree, I would be making progress on what to do.
coil stock is rolls of metal stock that comes in colours that can be bent on a break to custom fit as a wrap over trims like fascia and window/door casing when the vinyl siding guys land they have a break.Alternately you can have it custom made to fir over the existing at a sheet metal shop. Be sure to design it to fit up under the roof drip edge.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
OK, that makes sense. At least need to know what questions to ask local contractors.
Did I mention that my construction experience is limited to one cat house and two doghouses?
"Just so you know. I turn my phone off at night. "There are as many ways to lay an egg as there are chickens in the roost.
We even amaze ourselves when we all agree. Just finding consensus is a trick sometimes.And with this generation of newer man-made materials constantly rolling forward, it is an evolving field of knowledge.For instance, ten years ago, I would have recommended that you try the GP Primetrim. it is 9'16" thick.
But I think they must have changed the formula for it with the last round of govt inspired low VOC requirements. Stuff I installed in the early 90s is still fine, but some I installed three years ago will see me replacing it next week.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Yeah, the PrimeTrim we installed almost 20 years ago still looks as good as the day it went up (though the paint has faded a tad). I have three more sticks stored under the deck and was looking at them today -- they still look good too.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
I had a piece that laid right on the ground by my shop for a couple years, then I spray painted a yard sale sign on it. Then it laid around for another couple years. I finally used it for some patch work someplace after wiping the green scum off it. It was good as new.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Yeah, I'm sad to hear that the stuff may have been "dumbed down".
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
The "regular" wood fascias will last 500 years if they are painted properly.
and Miratec will last a little bit longer.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Second for MiraTec. Treat it like wood and it will treat you good. You might could even have a look at HardiTrim, it would be my first choice with MiraTec a very close second.
i was all for mira tec,till last weekend. dormer on the roof,trim comes down to 1 1/4 inch of roof on the dormer trim.
first 1.5" of miratec is getting pretty soft. primed and painted before it was put up 4 years ago. rest of house still looking good.
so i'm holding my breath.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.
Be sure to ask Piffin about bending out the drip edge with a pry bar so it drips away from the new fasica.... ;>)
Bill
No subfascia, and the old fascia is only 3/8 thick?
Okay. Pull the old drip edges. Go to your local sheet-metal guy and have him bend you some custom drip edges with a 5" apron, a ½" return, a 1¼" drop, and a 5/8" hemmed kick. Also hit the lumberyard and get some 1x10 white pine, a can of shellac, a can of alkyd primer, a can of exterior high-gloss alkyd paint, and some 2-part epoxy putty. Also get a couple of tubes of roofing pitch and a 12"-wide roll of Grip Gard ice & snow membrane.
Scrape the old fascia, cut/gouge out any rot and fill with epoxy putty. Take the new pine, rip a half-inch strip off the edge of each plank and set the strips aside. Now bevel-rip the top of the planks to match the roof slope. Shellac the knots, prime the stock and the strips, then paint.
Nail this new 1x9 stock over the old fascia (which is now your subfascia); when you have the beveled top aligned flush with the roof sheathing the new fascia should cascade down just below the old fascia. Now nail the ¾" x ½" strips you ripped earlier to the face of the new fascia along the top edge. This 'shingle moulding' will hold the kick of the drip edge ½" off the fascia preventing any water from running down it. It will also allow your gutters to tuck back behind the drip plane so no water gets behind them.
Run a bead of pitch on the underside of the apron of the new drip edge (where it will lie on the roof). Unscrew the bottom row of screws in the metal roofing, and with the aid of a flat shovel or some wood wedges cut from 2x scrap, gentle lift the metal and the felt enough to slide in your new drip edge and staple it in place. The drip edge will cover the shingle moulding completely, and will also cover the joint between the roof sheathing and the new fascia (which won't be lapped in the proper direction and so needs to be covered).
Lift the metal and felt again, and slide in a 6"-wide strip of the Grip Gard with the paper backing still on it. Align the front edge of the Grip Gard with the front edge of the metal drip edge. Now reach under and grab the upper corner of the backing paper and pull it out on a 45º angle until it's clear of the front edge, then pull it straight out while holding the membrane in place with your other hand and sticking it down to the roof sheathing and the drip edge as you go.
Screw the metal back down, and you're done except for the gutters....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Yeah, I am brought low by this!! Complicated, time consuming, and definitely not a job for someone who is scared of ladders. Will run that by the people who built the house originally.
It's not really that complicated. Take it one step at a time and it will all make sense as it goes together. You'll need a table saw; some paint brushes and a caulking gun; a hammer, nail-set, and some 2½" finishing nails; a stapler; and a ¼" nut-driver to unscrew the roof metal. You'll also need a pair of tin snips to cut the drip-edge to length, and a small, flat 'remodeler' pry bar/lever will also be very useful.
If you're afraid of ladders, use scaffolding. It's much pleasanter to work from scaffolding. You can rent it at any tool-rental agency. Get a buddy to help you set it up and tear it down.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....