Fastener recomendation for block walls
Question: recomendations for fasteners to attach steel studs to concrete block foundation walls (unfilled 4x8x16″ block).
In the past, I’ve used the deal with the 22cal shells, but didn’t really care for them (seem to pull out). Typically use the ones where you drill a hole, insert the anchor, and then drive the screw. Didn’t know if there was something better out there.
Background on the project in question: As per a couple FHB articles and the Building Science website (link below), I’m sealing the vaporbarrier poly to the walls of the crawl space. This will include caulking the poly to the walls as well as mechanical fastening to hold it in place. Instead of the treated 2×4’s that Build Sci recommends, I’m going to use galv steel studs (lighter, straighter, cheaper, not termite food).
So a strip of of steel studs around the perimeter to hold the vapor barrier in place. Fastener every 4 or 5′ or so…?
Building science link:
jt8
“Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success.” –Albert Schweitzer
Replies
tapcons
Don't remember if I've ever used Tapcons (probably not). Are those just drill and screw? No anchors?
jt8
"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success." --Albert Schweitzer
yes
you up to speed now...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Since I have a gun, I'd use shot and the nails for steel studs to concrete. With the right size shot, it would be quick, not bust up the block and with GOOD hearing protection-easier/quicker/better.
But, if I didn't have a gun, I'd go to a decent supplier and get nylon sheathed - drive in anchors. Figure a layout, predrill the steel and then with a masonry drill and a 1/4'' bit, drill and drive.
I'd use an 1-5/8's stud.
There's no way to catch the sill plate with furring and nails?
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Since I have a gun, I'd use shot and the nails for steel studs to concrete. With the right size shot, it would be quick, not bust up the block and with GOOD hearing protection-easier/quicker/better.
You've never had trouble with the gun nails pulling back out? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but seems like I dont' have much luck when 'em.
There's no way to catch the sill plate with furring and nails?
Fur the sill out and steel-stud the vapor barrier there? That would help the seal the crawlspace, but the problem is that I want to leave the sill open for future inspections. This house was the termite palace from Hell, and I don't want to give the little goobers a free ride back into the house if they ever come back. It will be a bigger hassle later when I get around to insulating.
Besides, that new (recon) Bosch hammer drill is calling to me :)
I'd use an 1-5/8's stud.
Sounds good. I ran over to the west Menards at lunch, but they didn't have any smaller than 3"-whatever. I think the north Menards has the 1-5/8. IIRC, about $2ish a stud.
jt8
"Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success." --Albert Schweitzer
Edited 9/8/2006 5:15 pm by JohnT8
John, hilti makes a track (steel stud) nail that has a plastic washer. By shooting straight and usually into the solid, not the core, holds very well.
If block are soft or when I'm furring to old brick, the drive-in anchors hold the best with the least #### ing up.
tapcons with either phillips or hex drive. I think more work-especially in a crawl. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
think JT8 needs a cordless hammer drill...
like aan 18V Bosch..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
For what you want to do I would just use 1 by PT lumber and concrete nails.You don't need any real holding power. Just something quick and easy.
For blocks, I have had poor results with tapcons; the threads seem to crumble.
I have had better results with a sort of similar screw, the "Wall Dog." I think that the threads of the Wall Dog flatten agianst the block, causing a compression hold.