Fastening cabinet bases to floor?
I’m building new cabinets for my own house and will soon need to install the base cabinets on a concrete slab. The last leg of the U shaped kitchen has a run of about 8 ft for which there is no vertical member to attach to (no wall). I am setting the cabinet boxes on a separate base unit made of pressure treated 2 X 6, ripped to correct height. The floor of the cabinet will then be screwed down to the 2X6. What is the accepted method of attaching the base to the floor?
I am considering either attaching cleats to the inside of the 2X6 base corners and screwing down thru the cleats with masonry screws (Tapcons) into the slab; or just running a bead of construction adhesive along the bottom of the base and setting in place. Just wondering what do others use?
Thanks for any advice, as always, Gary
Replies
I don't know that I would use ripped down 2x6 for a toe kick, I use 3/4 plywood ripped to size - no shrinkage.
I would tappcon down a cleat to the floor, with a little construction adhesive.
Ditto! 2x's will also warp and twist, stressing to screws thru the cabinet floor. Think about using "L" brackets to the underside of the boxes first then screw them into the toe kick material. small 1" work well, gravity will do the rest. I usually make my toe kicks out of 3/4 ply angle that i cut up, it's simple, strong and you'll also have something to screw thru to the concrete.
frame that base as a unit so it will not twist, then use PL Premium to glue it down after a dry fit to test level. Weight it in place overnight and that base is welded to the concrete!
Then use baseboard, painted pine, or whatever matches your other base at toe kicks on the rest of the cabinets
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Much will depend upon what sort of cabinet box, or carcasse, to use the casework term-of-art is used.
If the base cabinet has endpanels which reach all the way down to the floor, you can tapcon/ramset 2x4 to the floor near where the endpanels will go. You then shim the bases where they need to go, and screw though the endpanels into the 2x.
Now, if the bases have separate toekicks, that creates a few more options. You could just frame a box, shimed or scribed to the floor, and level & square to set the bases upon. If that toe box needs anchoring, then there are several ways to to that.
Simplest way is with leveler legs, you just adjust them as needed; gravity does the rest--mostly. If gravity is problematic, there's a good work-around though. Take some 2x material. Bore a pocket for the leg to sit in (or a through hole). Set out hte cabinets and work out where the legs "want" to be. Mark your 2x blocks where they land, remove the cabinet boxes, then tapcon/ramset the blocks down.
Can you screw them to a wall? If so, you may want to use leg levelers under the cabinets. See below.
http://www.scherrs.com/products/rta/subbase.htm
The leg levelers will keep the cabinets dry if there is a small leak, and you can run wiring, plumbing, or even HVAC under the cabinets. It makes leveling the cabinets a breeze.
Billy
I plane the bottom and/or backs of the cabinet bases until the fronts are plumb and the top of the backs are against the wall. Then I attach the cabinets to the wall.
hey guys, he said, "The last leg of the U shaped kitchen has a run of about 8 ft for which there is no vertical member to attach to (no wall)."
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Maybe a layer of ply with extra ply gussets on the back (if necessary) and simpson gusset plates with Tapcons.
Jeff
This was addressed in the January 94 issue in the article Fitting Kitchen Cabinets by Tom Law:
“I do it by screwing 1x blocks to the floor, then placing the cabinets over the blocks and screwing the cabinets to the blocks (top drawing, left).” That top drawing shows the screw going through the toe kick. This procedure was also recommended in this month’s JLC in the article Installing Stock Cabinets: “Screw through the kick and back to secure the unit, the fasteners will be concealed by the kick cover and the back screws by the plywood skin accompanying the cabinet order.”
In Fitting Kitchen Cabinets, Tom Law continues: “Usually I just use a 6-in. to 8-in. block of 1x4 in each corner. Before I screw the cabinet to the blocks, I shim or scribe the cabinet so that it's plumb, level and at the same height as the other cabinets . . . a center cabinet can be screwed to flanking cabinets; no blocks are necessary.”
I’m guessing blocks only 6 or 8 inches long would reduce the effects of warping, but I like Piffin’s idea of using glue in addition to the anchors as well. Whatever you end up using for cleats, you have the right idea as far as using something treated.
-T
You guys must plan on having barfights or hockey games in your kitchens!
Maybe it is because everything we've done is capped with stone counters, but our fasten-down methods range from nothing to a cleat with some glue and a few screws.
Those islands and peninsulas aren't going anywhere. Particularly so for an 8-footer.
Sometimes there is not much difference between a bar fight and an appliance delivery.;)
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That's because your appliance deliveries are done by guys working for your local appliance dealers. Yankee gorillas.
Here in the civilized world, we get white glove deliveries, done by guys wearing ties. No bumping allowed. ;-)
Yankee gorillas.And they dress like plumbers - crack and all
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I have been attaching cabs to the floor that way for many years now. I usually use 2x cleats as it gives you more meat to screw to.
I build a 2X4 frame, 1/8" less than the inside dimension of the base of the cab,(or it could be a single 2x board if it's just the front you want to secure), screw it to the floor, and then slip the cab over it like a sleeve, shim your cab to level & plumb so the cab actually sits on the shims, then screw through the side or the front of the base of the cab. Done. It's really the best way for securing any islands or peninsulas.I always snap lines and mark exactly where the cabs will be before I lay down any 2x cleats and even then I lay in the cleats as I go.Be mindful of where the cleats go if you have anything like toe kick heaters going in.