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Jeff Drago,
I’ll cast my vote with Gabe on the Tapcons about 3″ long. If you do use powder-driven nails, be sure to also use construction adhesive. PL Premium is ideal for this as it bonds very well to the potentially damp surfaces on your treated wood and your block. It is a good idea no matter what fasteners you use, unless you plan on removing the whole business anytime soon.
I’m not sure what Mike meant by “capillary break,” but I think he is referring to some fin or groove to induce the water running off the edge of the slab to let go of it and head for the soil rather than continuing behind your siding and soaking your nailers, which, by the way, need to be PT or other decay-resistant stuff. Hung on the block they can be construed to be in “ground contact” by proxy through the porous block.
Stagger the Tapcons up/down every 16″, glue it, and nail with stainless nails for a clean installation. Before you apply the siding, seal all 6 sides with your finish to keep ’em flat in service.
Bill
Replies
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What is the best type of fastener to use to attach studs horizontally to a hollow block wall? Since a lot people need to know the details of a project I will throw them in for your reading pleasure.
This block wall supports a porch slab(4"thick, 3 1/2"overhang), the length of the front wall is 12'and the height is 40" and left side wall is 5'long and 40" high also. Stairs on the right side. The block is 5 courses high. I want to attach the studs to use as nailers for a wrap around skirt of 1x6 or 1x8 western red cedar, probably board and batten. I want to attach the studs in three rows, top, center, and bottom. Most of these fasteners will be into the hollow web. How far apart do I space these fasteners? Fastener must also be long enough to penetrate 1 1/2" thickness of the nailers.
Thanks
*Hilti has a drive in expandable (minimal) anchor. 5/16" x 4". Drill the hole in the solid web. Used it to hold furring (indoors) to soft brick. Worked well. Metal pin into plastic sleeve. It's similar to those sign anchors but you could get it flush to the furring. Best of luck.
*Tapcon screws, about 3"long.Gabe
*y r u using 2x4 studs.. any facing you put on this is going to protrude beyond the slab overhang..use PT 1x4 ripped in half.. fasten it into the mortar joints any way u want.. i like cut nails and a two pound hammer.. or cement nails and a two pound hammer..then fasten your siding material to the PT furringy do u need a 2x4 to hang siding?b but hey, whadda i no?
*Thanks for the reply Mike, but read my posting again!!The slab overhang is 3 1/2", 2x4's are 1 1/2" thick and the 1x cedar is 3/4" thick, by my math this equals 2 1/4" leaving an overhang on the slab of 1 1/4". Using 2x for nailers allows for a greater nailing surface. Using your 1x on 1x leaves 3/4" or less penetration into the nailers and in my opinion a little light, although doable, for exterior work. Summer math classes started Monday for contractors, this is a typical word problem, come on fella's!!!
*Jeff;I had an occasion to install a hand rail down a set of basement steps years ago. I used a Remington power nailer to fasten 3 - 1/2" plywood 6" x 6" squares to concrete block on which I fastened the railing hardware. That was 10 yrs ago - no problems!-Will
*hey jeff...go screw yurself..if they are studs then they arn't nailers...are they nailers or studs?here's the math....1.5 + .75+ .75 = 3 inches and you haven't trimmed the top...flat 2x + board + batten = 3 inches.. now trim the top ...smartassget a grip ...if yur so smart y r u even askin?
*Jeff a little harsh for a guy offering you some free advice ain't it?I gotta go along with Mike on this one. Even if he did misunderstand you, I gotta believe you are acting the part of a thankless boor.Now for my advice. Pick up a book called "How to make friends and influence people".Read that and come back here with an open mind.blueps: depending on your geographic location, you might be making a serious mistake.
*Hey Mike, don't take it too personal it's only a porch! In our part of town, a 2x4 is commonly known as a "stud" and when that stud or whatever is fastened to a surface to provide a nailing surface it is commonly referred to as a nailer. Now I said "probably" board and batten, so adding a 1/2" or 3/4" batten still leaves ample overhang.Since everything buts under the slab overhang, what exactly am I trimming the top with? And Why? For your info as to why ask, because someone might have a better way to do things. "Being careful usually costs nothing more than time, but being careless can be real expensive". Can You Dig It?By the way this is not your jobsite, only clean thoughts here.
*wow. jeff
*Hey Blue, this is for you,Perhaps it's as well to start by saying this: Without a certain attitude to our craft, information itself is of little value. It is what we do with what we know that matters, not only the results but also the doing itself. It is the feeling of doing something we want to do--and doing it well, by measures both honest and sensitive. James KrenovYou guys can dish it out but you can't take it. My mind is always open, is yours? Anyways a little something for you to think about.
*little slow today jeff, but since i won my match this morning , who cares..what's up with this ?.....>>if this is a <> then u oughta use the jargon of the trade yur discussin...they don't call them studs in <>> and call them something else everywhere else...one reason to use PT is because the water is going to flow off the slab and follow the concrete to the block by capillary action.. so u need a capillary break.. and u shold also think about the nailers getting wet and staying wet..by installing a trim piece at the top, you can hide a capillary break behind the trim piece..but then i don't know much because i ain't been to yur remedial math class..thanks for the lesson in how to live my life too....yur such an example to all of us....god bless..
*Jeff Drago,I'll cast my vote with Gabe on the Tapcons about 3" long. If you do use powder-driven nails, be sure to also use construction adhesive. PL Premium is ideal for this as it bonds very well to the potentially damp surfaces on your treated wood and your block. It is a good idea no matter what fasteners you use, unless you plan on removing the whole business anytime soon.I'm not sure what Mike meant by "capillary break," but I think he is referring to some fin or groove to induce the water running off the edge of the slab to let go of it and head for the soil rather than continuing behind your siding and soaking your nailers, which, by the way, need to be PT or other decay-resistant stuff. Hung on the block they can be construed to be in "ground contact" by proxy through the porous block.Stagger the Tapcons up/down every 16", glue it, and nail with stainless nails for a clean installation. Before you apply the siding, seal all 6 sides with your finish to keep 'em flat in service.Bill
*Tapcons would be my first choice for this application! 16" center to center spacing should keep you in the cores as long as you start in one. 3" long screws are sufficient. I sure WAS enjoying the friendly chat, that is until I stopped here! Don
*What a freaking attitude. Why bother replying at all.