Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 08:51am | #10

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   I am going to put a fence around a house in a city suburb. Happens to be my house.

   I am considering a fence made of spaced masonry pillars with some welded up 3/4" and 1" rectangular tubing between. I would manufacture the metal fencing in some sort of design.

   Questions: Are there any rules of thumb on pillar size and spacing for good esthetics? Is tubing, which is cheap and easy to weld, the best choice considering downstream maintenance? I know I don't have to ask for additional advise?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 06:48am | #1

   *Fred B.Lot size, amount of open space, adjoining properties, style of house etc. are all considerations when designing a fence to accent a property.Another consideration is the material sizes or lenghts. If you can get a good deal, for instance on 1" square tubing in 16' lenghts, then going 16' spans might be more cost effective than 14'.The last consideration, is strenght and durability versus asthetics. How much abuse is this thing likely to endure, are the kids in your area respectful of property or are they understudies of Al Capone.What I find helpful in doing any design is a notepad and pencil first. Make a score on the above and the items you would like on one side of the ledger with practical ideas on the other side.Draw a line between the two and by comparing the two in print, you will make the best decision.Good luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 09:39pm | #2

   *Thanks for pointing out that I wasn't as clear as I should have been in the original post. I have done the things you mentioned. In this area there are varied fences. All the way from chainlink to cedar boards to pickets.So, I thought one of two style fences would be unique and compliment the architecture; split rail, or pillar and decorative metal panel(for want of a better description). It is a small corner lot about 120x100.With a fence I thought the proportions of pillar width and height to span between the pillars would probably make a difference in how pleasing it would be to the eye. Or, maybe I'm trying to be too artsy and cautious.Cost is a consideration; but not primary. The primary concerns are appearance, durability, and maintainability. When I get old and creaky that is where I plan to settle so I'd like to do a little more than just put up a functional fence mark the property.Any ideas now that I've done my posting job better?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 1999 09:51pm | #3

   *Blasphemy...Metal, Masonary! Call your self a carpenter. Baaah! Jus kidding...You can build whatever you want...Your property. Proportions should be something that comes naturally to a carpenter such as your self. Try to tie in similar looking materials and patterns to existing and mabee a few features to make it interesting.(Every panel doesn't have to be identical but pattern is important). If you change your mind and want to do wood email me.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 12:12am | #4

   *Give some consideration to maintenance down the track. We usually powder coat the finished product in a colour of choice and if you can afford the additional cost get the steel work galvanized or zinc coated first.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 03:45am | #5

   *It is sort of odd even considering metal I guess. But since I know how to weld using metal is a valid material choice. Even so I'm not wedded to any particular material. Whatever works is what I want. I thought maybe metal would last longer and take less maintenance. But I may yet end up with wood.Thanks for the powder coating idea. Don't know anyone who does it in my area but I'm sure going to check out the cost with the nearest facility.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 08:57am | #6

   *For a good looking fence, proportions are important. You are right to be concerned with pillar height to section span. The proportions work out to about 3:1, the same that N. Herreshoff used in designing his beautiful boats (that's how I remember). A corner lot fence is gonna' get alot of abuse from the neighborhood kids, unless you plant some border plants.I am very partial to wood, but I can appreciate your design. Actually, it would look very nice and unique to have a brick pillar and square tube rail fence. Be creative.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 06:08pm | #7

   *I've used some "slump blocks" for pilasters into which went wood panels. About 20" x 20" x 6" high. One big block per course so there are no vertical joints. Looked good and could work with steel. Powder coating would be great, also consider epoxy paints. Talk to a boat yard - they have the toughest environment for paints and know of a range of options. Give some thoughts to the connection between steel and masonry - that can be a weak point. I'm imagining a steel framework out of #4 that is almost as wide as the column and beds into the entire horizontal mortar joint.

5. 
   gregg | Apr 05, 1999 09:02am | #8

   *3to5.Powdercoat sure is sweet too!

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 02:48am | #9

   *I'm not sure what ratio you are referring to at 3to5. I assume Rich's is 3 wide to 1 high. But I'm not sure what the 3to5 ratio is.Reference powder coating: Would I have to take the assembled components somewhere? Or, is there a portable method that I could bring to the job? I am familiar with electro-coating in an industrial setting, but not in this one. Or, is there another way than electro-coating to apply the powder?

7. 
   Guest_ | Apr 06, 1999 08:51am | #11

   *FredB: that would be 3 high/ 1 wide. Or thereabouts.