Replies

1. 
   gdavis62 | May 11, 2005 03:47pm | #1

   Search the archives here.  There was a very recent discussion about this.

   The method I recall that had a lot of promise was to augur-drill an oversized hole, then use concrete and a product that is a heavy-wall plastic sleeve with integral bottom end cap, that makes a net-fit socket for a 4x4 timber post.  The product comes with a gasketed ring that fits to the post at the top end of the sleeve, sealing off water entry down into the socket.

    

2. 
   csnow | May 11, 2005 06:28pm | #2

   For longevity, another method is to set steel angle into concrete, then bolt the post to the angle.  As a bonus, fence can be removed or sections can be replaced easily.

3. 
   Piffin | May 12, 2005 01:56pm | #3

   dig hole four feet deep
   if post is not pt, then coat it with ground contact preservative
   put 6" stone in bottom.
   settle the post in the hole and hold it plumb.
   pack in gravel around it tight all the way up

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   woodenhead | May 12, 2005 03:18pm | #4

   Thanks for the information,can i use roofing cement to flash the bottom of the cedar post?

1. 
   SamT | May 12, 2005 03:32pm | #5

   Don't use anything waterproof or vapor proof. The post has to breath to let any moisture (that will get in) out.

2. 
   Piffin | May 13, 2005 01:11am | #6

   I wouldn't. The idea of the stone at the bottom of the hole is to give water a way to drain away from the wood post so it doesn't wick up in and soften it. By using something that dnese, you tend to trap water.most rot occours inthe region of about 6" to 12" below the top of the soil. The fungii and bacteria need moisture, oxygen, food and warmth to grow. A copper based penetrating preservative is best for creating an environement that is inhospitable to rot. read the label though, it can be dangerous to use improperly. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   mbdyer | May 13, 2005 02:08am | #7

   Growing up on a dairy and steer farm we had two main methods that were similar in concept.  Auger out a hole three times diameter of post, putting at least three if not more feet of post in the ground.  Gravel the bottom and then set the post plumb with batten boards.  The next step differed in one way only: concrete.  Gate posts and posts on steep slopes we dropped in a foot or so of concrete and let set a day.  Then we tamped in earth filling the hole.  Other posts we only tamped in earth.  To tamp, dump in four or so inches of soil and then compact with a tamping bar, or even a 2x2 stick and hammer.   Tamped earth allows the post to drain moisture down into the gravel and should the post frost heave, it can be forced plumb and retamped with an hour's effort.  The concreted posts stayed plumb best as the wad of concrete cantilevered and resisted leaning.  A post set in full concrete will be the most stable but the post will shrink leaving a pocket for water to settle and freeze in.  Freezing water expands, cracking the post and concrete allowing for more rot.