I have helping a friend fix up an old house to flip.
I am looking for some details on the FHA “inspections”. Found a HUD-92564-VC form.
http://www.hudclips.org/sub_nonhud/cgi/pdfforms/92564-vc.doc
http://www.hudclips.org/sub_nonhud/cgi/pdfforms/92564-vc.pdf
But that is fairly generic and simple.
I was under the impression that there where a lot more detailed requirements such as miniumum size of electrical service, dimenions of bedrooms and the like.
Or is none of that require any more.
I know that they have gotten away from calling them “inspections” and suggesting that a home inpsector be used by the buyer.
But have they gotten away from all of the detailed requirements that they used to have?
From some more looking they do have detailed standards for new construction, but this is for a 60 YO home.
Edited 10/7/2005 11:18 am ET by BillHartmann
Replies
Home inspectors look at the existing condition and will also spot a high percentage of code violations.
The way I've learned what they look for is just from dealing with them. So, you could hire one
First this has nothing to do with meeting codes. And in general home inpsectors can't inspect to code. With the except of a new things that are easily upgraded (such as smokes, but then to a lower standard than new construction) what ever met code when the house was build or that those parts improved then they are grandfathered in.It would be near impossible for the inspector to match up codes over a 60 year period with the different improvements and changes in the house.What I am looking for are minimum stanadards that the FHA had for property that they would guarantee a loan on.IIRC one of the old standards was on the spacing of ballastrades on stairs and decks and they required upgrading even if it was grandfathered into the codes.2 areas that I am specifically concerened about is minimum required electrical service and a fixes needed for a drive in garge in a raised ranch.
Bump
Bill - Why not go right to the horses mouth? Call the FHA directly and just ask them.
An old diary that I have lists Main # as 202 708 3600. They also have a website, I suspect you tried that.
Don K.
All I can find on the web site is very generic. Roof having 4 years life and stuff like that.I figured that some one here that buys and refurbs house would have details info on this.
Bill,The FHA (and VA) issues I run into (being asked for certs at times) are:Roof with 2 years expected,
Heat to each room and furnace not in need of repair/service,
GFIs in kitchens, baths and high moisture locations,
"Adequate" electrical service (100A minimum, and the houses I see going VA/FHA don't need more given their size and the lack of any significant electric heat in my area)
Hand rails on all stairs of 3 or more (with different inspectors differing whether 3 treads and a land is 3 or 4 steps)
No significant exterior peeling paint.
Every now and then I'll also get asked for a structural cert, such as if there was visible damage in the basement.In my area, different inspectors take different views as to the applicability of the roof and peeling paint rules to detached garages.And it seems as if the appraisers in my area are also the people doing the VA inspections, and they are repoprtedly so worried about keeping the work flow up from the banks that they aren't exactly hardnosed.So, paint and roofs, sometimes furnaces are typically the big $ issues.
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Bout time you earned your keep round here . <G>
Tim
"Hand rails on all stairs of 3 or more (with different inspectors differing whether 3 treads and a land is 3 or 4 steps)"Yet that is one of the issues on the front steps.But I am wondering about the basement steps. It does have a railing, but no spindles. Do you know if that is a problem?Also the furnace and WH is in the basement along with a garage.Built in 45 or so and clearly no fire resistant ceiling or divider.Also the WH can't be raised 18" because of the height of the flue.The owner, who is also a real estate agent say that in the past on similar house that a 1/2 wall was all that was needed to separate the garage from the rest of the basement.That does keep the gas fumes from the WH, but does nothing for fire protection. Have you run into that?
I haven't heard of the lack of spindles being a problem, but there can be a lot of variation in what the FHA "inspectors" call out.Nor have I heard of a lack of a fire resistant garage surfaces.(If statistics show most fires start in bedrooms, why the special rules for garages?)Interesting solution for the water heater in the garage problem. I'd buy it.
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
I have often wondered about the requirement for firewalls between garage space and living space.It might have been needed at some time past, but I just don't hear about that many garage fires.
Now you have drifted into my experience.
The garage you speak of is illegal. Im sure it was when it was built but certainly now. Even more serious if garage is connected to bedrooms.
The code is very strict on this issue and requires a 1 hour fire wall difference on all walls ajoing living areas including ceilings.
There have been many regulations added for garages as they are very dangerous or are considered so by codes. The best addition was a heat sensor alarm since vehicles , lawn mowers , etc can activate a set of alarms and from nucience be turned off.
Tim
I know that it is illegal for NEW construction.But my only concern is about FHA requirements for loans.And there are probably millions of homes like this with tuck under grages and no fire separation.
Excellent questions on the fix and flip and selling to an FHA buyer.When you sell the home the Buyer will probably have an inspector take a look at the house. This is common and you probably know from experience they look at it from top to bottom and "rip you a new one".The Buyer will also have an FHA appraisal and that's where things get tricky.I don't the FHA appraiser will say anything about 60 Amp Electrical (however, some homeowners insurance carriers will not insure the house until it's update to at least 100 Amp service). I don't think the FHA appraiser will say anything about Fire walls between the garage and the living area.Here are some things the FHA appraiser will nail you with:1. the house must have dirt around the foundation and positive drainage.2. roof that will last at least two years.3. roof gutters and down spouts (judgement call as to whether the home needs it)4. bare wood needs to be painted.5. they will not allow the double pane windows or patio doors with fog between the two panes.6. if the concrete driveway has settled and water will not flow away from the house they will write you up for that and you as the seller will have to have this corrected.Am I missing anything here?
One last thing: The FHA appraiser will look at the date you bought it, what you paid for it, and how much you are selling it for. The FHA appraiser may ask you for a list of the repairs you have completed to get an idea of how much you have invested in this.The other thing that comes up is if you buy and turn around and sell it within a short time frame, six months I believe, it raises red flags and the buyer may have to pay for two appraisals, to have two solid opinions as to the sale price and to make sure it will appraise, and this sometimes can be a problem.Agree?
>> [A home inspector will] look at it from top to bottom and "rip you a new one".There are some HIs who think that's their job, but for me and the good inspectors I know, our job is to assess the condition of the house and give the buyer an objective view of it; good and bad. (We leave the ugly to Martha Stewart <G>)I'm not doing my client any favors by exaggerating the problems I see or ripping a house for no good reason.I mention this because there is already enough mis-information about the business out there.>>I don't the FHA appraiser will say anything about 60 Amp Electrical They are in my area; they won't cover a house with 60A anymore.>>(however, some homeowners insurance carriers will not insure the house until it's update to at least 100 Amp service)I don't know of any who do in my area. In fact, the agents are telling their sellers to change the remaining 60s out because that'll stop almost all deals these days.I don't know how regional this stuff is: the ins co are hell on underground oil tanks in NE, but the subject doesn't amount to much in my area (because there aren't many to start with, I suppose.)Some of the ins co are still flipping out over "mold" and signs of water in basements.
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
It's probably historical. Back in the 1920's, LA required wired glass in windows facing a parking lot, and concrete walls for the side of a garage facing the lot line. Seems they had little faith in Henry Ford.... ;-)
-- J.S.
Some place I read that back in the 30's that garages had to be separated from the house by so many feet and that only small amount of gas could be stored and I think that included the automobiles tank.Don't remember where I read that, but it might have been from a review of a book on garage that Taunton has out.
In my place, 1926, the garage is only 5 ft. from the house. The other unusual thing is that it's very wide for a one car, but not big enough for two. It would be perfect for two mini-Cooper's. ;-)
-- J.S.