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I edit the Tools and Materials department in FHB magazine. To develop new ideas for reviews, I’d like to know about any reasonably available, inexpensive tools that you now find it impossible to live without. Hope to hear from a lot of you. Thanks.
Andy
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Do you want "tool" tools only or things that have been used as tools? For instance, my less than $10 clam knife is an indispensible tool, but it probably wasn't expected to be in a mechanics tool box. And most people who do any touch up spackling probably rely on a small artist's paint trowel for it.
*Barry, I'm primarily interested in bringing poorly marketed but useful tools to light. Underscore useful -- my toolbox is already about 10 lbs. overweight. As a matter of general interest, I'd like to learn about innovative uses of common tools as well. And $10 is not a firm limit. If you know of a $20 widget that greatly eases the daily frustrations of a builder's life, don't hold back.Regards,Andy
*More an accessory than a tool. DeWalt #2 phillips deck bits. The only place I have ever seen these are Payless Cashways (the one in bankruptcy, also known as Knox, etc.). They are about $6.50 for three. The head is shaped a little differently than regular cheap #2 bits. Its smaller. But the magic of them is they don't cam out until the screw is driven deeper than you want. Unlike worthless #2 bits which cam out with the screw still half out of the wood.
*Hi Andy,Garrett Wade and Lee Valley both sell a little cat's paw that has a thin, hard, curved scraper blade about 1 1/2" wide on one end of it. They call it "The Restorer's Cat's Paw" The blade end is very tough and very sharp at the same time.The other end is a small 90-degree cat's paw. I have two of them in the box at all times and start to get nervous when I've misplaced one. Actually I've got three right now.Great for prying off historic mouldings with minimal damage, scraping flaking paint or plaster, removing clapboards with minimal damage to the wood, etc.I supplement it with one just a little larger that has the traditional two-claw design for places where the 90-degree claw won't work. But the claws on the larger one are more destructive, so I use it less often.I forget how much it costs exactly, but it's in the neighborhood of 15 bucks.Steve ZerbyMeetinghouse Restoration
*Andy,Like Steve, I've often needed just the right tool for carefully removing old trim. There is a small flat bar commonly sold in the paint department of hardware stores as a scraper, well under $10. It's a sharp, fine-edged, wide blade on one end, hooked scraper blade on the other. I use it as a molding removal tool, and now so do most of my co-workers after they've tried it out. Both Vaughan and Stanley also make a very useful miniature flat pry-bar for under $5.00.There are a lot of flush-cut hacksaw blade holders, the low end plastic version is about $3.50, the high-end (as far as I know) being Sandvik at $9.50. Excellent for reaching in behind trim and cutting nails. I wouldn't want to do remodeling, especially trim removal and replacement, without these tools.One of the best free tools I carry is a short length of garden hose, used to protect rope from chafing on the sharp edges of walls or roofs. Saves a lot of wear on the $125 ropes, and helps to prevent a safety hazard.
*The cheapest, simplest tool is a Romex ripper. A stamped piece of sheet metal for about a buck that saves thousands of dollars in frustration, time, injuries, and damaged wire.
*Andy; The five in one tool sold mostly at paint storeshas got to be the most usefull tool under 10 bucks that I have ever ran across. It makes an excellent pry bar for removing trim, great paint can opener, scraper and paint roller cleaner thatwill pay for itself in salvaged paint from paint rollers. They are so handy and coveted that I think I have bought at least 20 of them in the last 10 years. The second most handy tool for under 10 bucks for me would be a set of sandvik scrapers, they do such fine finishing without sanding and sanding noises I would be hard put to live without them. brisketbean
*A sharp pencil and a big eraser. Best and cheapest.
*Howdy Andy....Lessee...1. Full Length Roof Framer...book2. Squangle3. One of those...Electric testers...to see only if wires are hot......and can be placed next to wiring..4. Uncle Bills Tweezers...!!!!...5. All of my crew..and myself...now wear the Atlas Gloves..with the rubber palms and fabric backs...they go for five or six bucks the pair..can be laundered...and you have a lot of flexibility and control...saves all of our hands...6. We just found...a screw tip...which drives drywall screws...using a cordless...leaves the dimple..and sets to perfect depth...less than a buck...I will look for more in the boxes...D. Nickelson
*A headlamp! Keeps your hands free as you're finishing up at the end of the day and avoids having to suck on the end of a flashlight with your lips. Also great in crawlspaces, attics, and looking down holes and drains. Petzl makes some great ones $20-50 for 2-AA to 3-C units, but that's overkill for carpenters. Use a MiniMaglite ($10-12) that takes 2 AA's and get an elastic strap ($6) sold for this purpose in hardware and outdoor stores. DO NOT get the non-elastic kind - it's either too tight or too loose, never just right. But the elastic ones are comfortabale and fold up alongside the flashlight taking up little more room.And shop scissors. A big safety item. So much cutting can be done safely with a sturdy pair of scissors and the fewer times you use your razor knife, the fewer trips to the ER. I always reach for the scissors first. About the same convenience, but much safer. I'll second the remote voltage sensor ($8?). Saves a couple of trips to basement to identify the right breaker, double check, turn it off again. -David
*Klien (the lineman's tool company) makes an assortment of canvas tool bags. There's a smallish flat one with a zipper for $6-7 and they're great for organizing and keeping things clean. Use a marker to label them: "bits," "hex keys," "blade wrenches," whatever.
*A Yankee push drill. I use it for all the minor wood work like starting pilot holes, installing hooks, etc. around the house. It does not replace an electric drill for heavy duty work, but it light enough to carry around and works very quickly when you only need a few holes. It is old fashioned simplicity at its best, and it was under $20 when I bought it years ago
*I would like to place a vote for the Stanley Wonderbar II. It is a downsized version of their flat bar. It is available for less than $5. It is indespensible. I use it as a prybar, lever, screwdriver, and scraper. I used to use it for eating my lunch when I forgot a fork or spoon, until I used it to clean off the wax ring from the bottom of a toilet.
*David, what's a squangle? Andy
*Likewise a Yankee screwdriver - easier than chucking a bit in a cordless drill for just a few screws - especially where a little more feel is need in finished work areas. But probably $30 today...
*Ditto Ken's remarks, but I take it a step further. This anal carpenter actually has a battery-operated pencil sharpener (about $10 at Staples) permanently parked in the corner of my tool box tray. Yeah, you snicker, just like the guys I used to work with. But you should have seen them line up to use it!!! Hey, and while we're on the subject, how about those $1.79 compass scibes? I'm NEVER without those babies.
*Alternately, little tupperware containers. Not the off-brand stuff but Tupperware ($1.29 each) for bits, an assortment of nails and screws, electrical wire nuts, etc. -David
*I do not know the name of the manufacturer(because the name has worn off of the handle), but the "Siding Zipper" for removing vinyl siding is one that I get a lot of use out of. If I recall correctly, it only cost $6 at my local siding supply house.
*Oops...A squangle is a speed square....DN
*No it's not. A Squangle is an adjustable square type gismo, that adjusts and locks in place with two screws and thumb nuts that keep getting lost. One of them is necessary to fix the thing. I have replaced the other with a 16d nail bent over and cut off so that it won't come out. Nevertheless it is very useful.
*Took a minute to think about what stays in my tool belt. I think that most carpenters have these but I went though the top ten things that are less then a case of beer. Ok we like the better brands (read that as more expensive)1.) The screw starters with the sleeve that slides down and covers the screw. After I used one a thought why didn't I think of that Around $5.002.) A good sharp pocket knife. Saves from having to go find that utility knife(Where did I put that thing at?) $15.00 at Wal Mart3.) A small pocket stone. Keeps that knife sharp and you end up using it for all kinds of things Knife stores in malls $8.004.)One of the good multi-plyers that you see around. Use mind for all kinds of things.From changing a bad trigger to replacing a cord end. Home Depot $30.005.)One of the small plastic boxes with little compartments. You find in the fishing section to keep driver bits and small stuff sorted lets you find that odd bit with out dumping a box WalMart 98 cents6.)The little wonder bars that stanley sellsThese little things are great.Us them for trim install and removal. Have even stood on them to move things around. (Ok it broke once, seemed like a good idea at the time) Home center, Hardware store ect..ect.. about $5.00 7.)Small pair of slip joint plyers Use these to pull nails, hold small objects for work and in a emergency change a saw blade.( I swear that wrench was in this box this morning) Wal Mart $6.00 for the 5 inch model8.)A good nail set You us it for everthing but setting nails.(Here use this nail set to clean that concrete from that hole) Stanley contractor grade a set sells around $15.009.)A good fitting pair of safty glasses Ok,no long speeches about safty here but if they are comfortable you will wear them and isn't that why you bought them? Wear my safty "sunglasses" home during the summer Got mind from the local tool supply house and a cord to hang them from my neck for around $20.00 10.)Architect pencils A little more then a old No.2 but the lead is harder and they hold up more to rought work and don't start that "wide fuzzy line" for finish work Box of twenty at the office supply store is around $9.00Bill CurryCurry Construction
*An awl is my favorite tool: it can pry to move this or that, it pokes holes, it holds the end of my chaulk line, it anchors my tape, pokes holes in the foil seals of glue tubes, and it does even more than that.My second favorite is a small 6 inch flat bar, its small and light and will pry out a car window just enough to unlock the door with a bent up coat hanger, the latest emergency job.
*I guess I'd have to nominate my three favorite tools as:1. Lee Valley's Japanese nail set. Larger and heavier than normal, I can set framing nails, pry with it, and even scribe when I have to. At 4.95, I use it everywhere for pushing, pulling, prying, and even setting nails.2. The Johnson Site Level is an orange viewfinder with a small bubble vial on top and a crosshair. Not as accurate as a laser or four foot level, but in 15 seconds I can determine how much grade change their is, set posts, and determine how much work I'm going to have to do. 7.95 at Home Depot.3. The Stanley Shortcut Toolbox saw. On a roof, in a basement, or just about anywhere where I either don't want to or can't get my regular circular saw, this will cut through almost anything quickly and easily, and it's low cost means I don't have to worry about ruining it, even if I do cut through nail-embedded wood.Jason SeltinSt. Johns, MI
*I'd have to say that among some of the others mentioned, I think one of the great innovations today is the drill and drive attachment for drills. Early clunky versions of this tool gave way to the makita and then dewalt(craftsman, etc.) types. You know the one end is a drill/countersink, the other is a bit holder. These things stay in my drill almost exclusively.I also like speed squares, gorilla glue, quick clamps, diamond hones, a small pair of vise grips, vix bits, center punches, pocket hole jigs, digging bars, etc., etc., etc. Tom
*Vix bits, they are spring loaded self centering bits that I use when drilling pilot holes for door hinges. I hang a lot of doors in commercial work and I buy the doors and frames fit to each other. The vix bits help me get the hinges properly/perfectly set into place.
*Obviously the best tools are those you get for free (or close to it). The hand-me-downs from dad or grandpa. The ones you come across in a box of "junk". The latter describes my most favorite of all my under 10 dollar hand tools which is a small 6" wood, brass and steel square that was beat to all heck when I got it. It must be older than dirt..I cleaned it up to a reasonable state and use it very often. This is no extraordinary tool i suppose. It just has the type of charm and feel of a craftsman's tool. As far as tools that one must buy and that are the most worth their cost? I would have to say that one particular siding tool comes to mind. It is a trim nail tool for nailing inside of J-channel and other tight spots. It looks like a hollow nail set with a rod that slides through the center. You put ther trim nail inside the set and drive it home by driving the rod through with the hammer. I could find out the actual product name and manufacturer if you need and it sells for around 7 bucks.AND... let us never forget the all around handy and indispensible 5 in 1 tool. You know, the scraper, roller head clener, nail set etc... tool that resembles a deformed scraper.Pete Draganic
*I vote for the Stanley wonder bar II
*I love the screw starters with the sleeve, but mine keep getting bent! I last tried a shorter version of the same brand (DeWalt), thinking it would be stouter, but it bent almost immediately. What brand do you use?Rich Beckman
*Here's another vote for the painter's five-in-one.
*I am surprised nobody came up with a cheap plastic speed square as the bargain tool. I have used mine for many different purposes.
*Probably my most used under $10.00 tool is a round piece of peel and stick plastic laminate that goes on your tape measure. You can write down measurments while the tape is still in your hand and erase with a little spit on your finger,just like all those pre-test notes on your desktop in school. Beyond that I would say a standard Stanley utility knife with a full load of fresh blades in the hollow handle and a plastic speed square. JonC
*I think that a set of wood "fingers" with a miter guage slot and lock-down knob is well worth the $8. It applies lateral pressure against the stock(thus against the fence) before the blade, hence allowing greater precision and reducing the need to push with your fingers so close to the tablesaw blade. Still counting to ten....
*The other day I picked up a masonery chisel for ten bucks and heat n beat it into a pry bar. I then ground on it with a belt sander to thin the blade. Now its a pry bar to remove moulding. I also modified a Stanley crow bar. (I would have to show you this one.) It works much better than a cats paw. I have others that I have modified that have worked out. Don't forget garage sales. 3/8 Milwaukee drill. $2.00. 8" grinder, $10.00. Stanley block plane, $2.00.L. Siders
*David, I too like the Atlas gloves - if you mean the blue coated gray ones. Since I wear XXL the extra flex of the Atlas makes for a comfortable fit. Anyhow Lab Safety has these at $3.30 a pair when buying 12, XL a little more. http://www.labsafety.com
*Steve, I love those things! Have two, one in my tool bag and one in the shop, my father "borrowed" the third one about a year ago. Bill
*Sex wax is the best tool it gives you the best grip for your hammer. It is made by mr.zoggs sex wax,and you can get it on the web just a buck a stick.
*My favorite low budget tool is a mechanical pencil. I like the .9mm leads for durability & strength. They cost about $5 and you can usually store 5-10 extra leads in the end of them. Most stationary store have them or can order them. You can also get differernt hardness' of lead for these I like a "H" or "HB", these are soft and work well on lumber and plywd. The best feature is not having to sharpen the point all the time. If it breaks or wears down just click, click on the end and you've got a sharp lead.
*My favorite toll for under 10 bucks is a slightly sharpened, flathead screwdriver. You can drive almost any screw with it, use it for a scraper, open paint cans with it, clean your nails with it, and just about anything else that needs to be done. The best thing about it is that if you lose it a replacement only costs about a buck.
*Some may not consider it a tool, but a good set of suspenders gets my vote. Getting "plumber's crack" working outside in Me. this time of year may not be fatal but it sure is pretty uncomfortable.
*I'll vote for the inductive pocket voltage detector. I use mine all the time to sort out circuits and confirm that, "Yes, the power is off." Home Depot sells the Greenlee version ("pocket volt-tick")for $14.96.
*A roofing crew I subbed some work out to this past summer showed me the best tool I have ever used.Take the foam rubber from a old couch cushion up on the roof with you.This gives you a cool place to sit,stand,set down tools.whatever.The crew actually hand nails while sitting on these things.I laughed like hell the first time I saw them do this ,but they insisted I try it.I have rarely set foot on a roof since without bringing up a cushion.The very slight loss of time spent moving the cushion around is more than offset by saving wear and tear on your butt,the greatly improved traction means you can comfortably and safely stand on some very steep roofs and the cushion saves replacing a lot of scuffed shingles. The cushions work great during remodeling or repair work such as reflashing old chimneys or installing dormer windows.The best thing is you can get these cushions FREE from any one throwing out an old couch,but I buy 3or4 of them new at a time from a local store called the Surplus Junk Store.Don't laugh till you have tried this.
*A few of my cheapest, favorite, and, most used, in no particular order:Hyde paint scraper, 3" blade 10" long. The thinnest tool I've ever found for getting behind trim,scraping crud, using as a backer when no- mar prying is needed, and of course, scraping paint. $60.7mm Staedtler marsmicro mechanical pencils, 3 for $8. The finer the line, the finer the work, and, they come in colors.The blade of a 12" adjustable square. The adjustable parts always break on me, but the blade is much easier to deal with and read than a tape measure. Mine is a General, about $25, a lot of money, but all the little markings are there, and easy to read.Sharksaw Rockeater. Nothing like it. $11Eze-Lap diamond hone & stone. Different grits, and they are flat. Use to keep that scraper sharp. $6 each.Stanley dovetail saw. Not really fine enough for dovetails, but quite handy on a trim job. Cordless too. $10Old paint brush. Great little brooms, and they fit in an apron. Free if you work around forgetful painters.Spring loaded nail sets. Mine have all walked off, but they could set a 16d framing nail, and, with no hammer swinging. Anybody know where I could get more? around $10Self-ejecting hole saws. No more beating and prying lockset plugs out. I think Vermont American made mine. A little pricey at $25, but real timesavers.
*I'm not sure if this post got lost in the crash, but my vote goes to the Nicholson 4-in-Hand rasp and the Milwaukee job saw (as previously mentioned)
*Hooah--its getting close to ten bucks though!!!!
*another vote for the 'painters 5-1 but those saw hooks are handy also $15 i think? the one i have flips out of the way when i don't need it and it also fits on my hitachi framing nailer- great for keeping the gun on the roof.
*machanical framing pencil . one lead lasts as long as three or four pencils Titanium hammer from Stilleto, way over ten bucks but the best present my arm has ever gotten.
*Alot of the tools mentioned are more than $10 and don't qualify.The Stanley 99 utility knife.The Stanley 25' tape.The Stanley Shortcut saw.
*My most used cheap tool is an orange handled Schrade lock blade pocket knife. Big enough to use, thin enough to carry all the time, Strong enough to have not broken yet, and bright enough to have not been lost yet.
*My second favorite tool is a right angle nail set. I made mine years ago but I saw one similar to it in an ad for japanese tools.
*Andy:These guys covered most of the bases already, but since this is my favorite subject (tools, that is...) I'll mention a couple. I like the staedler mars 780 drafting pencil for job site use, and I don't mean drafting. The lead is thick and holds up well to rough use, and can be sharpened easily on the sidewalk or whatever other rough surface is handy. The standard speed square is a great tool for the obvious uses as well as a guide for my trim saw. I like those sturdy, sharp little awl like tools that have a sharp point at both ends, one at a 90 degrees, the other straight. Perfect for unclogging or opening up caulking tubes and manuevering tiles around while being set in mastic. Finally, there is one tool I could not live without. It is way over the limit, but it's cost per value ratio is so high, I have to include it. Spyderco makes a wonderful line of knives, and their 'endura' model is my most oft used tool. It has an integral clip molded in the handle and never leaves my person (well, almost never...) For marking lines, opening packages,probing, even sawing. It comes to my hand a hundred times a day, which makes the fifty bucks seems cheap. Really!Brad
*For $9.95 I think the little black book is a steal.I'm talking about the POCKET REF by Thomas J. Glover. In case your not familiar with it,it is a compact referance book that covers pretty much everything.Span of lumber, insulation tables,weights and measures,trig,conversions,wiring,surveying,computers,etc....It is great for settling onsite debates also.I would prefer to have the Jr. Woodchucks Manual that Huey,Dewey, and Louie used but I can't seem to find one.
*Drill and drive: drill, countersink, and driver thingy all in one. $9.95Vix bits: self centering (close anyway) bits for hinges, cabinet hardware, or anything with a hole that needs a pilot hole. Indespensible for trimming. 3 different sizes from $11.50 to $13.25.Timberwolf bandsaw blades from Suffolk Machinery. Under $15 with shipping. Check out their website and definitly try these blades. Smooth.Japanese flush cut saw. Flexible, no set. Cut off plugs, great for under cutting jambs or things of that ilk. $11.50Japanese double ended cat's paws. This is what American nail pullers wish they were. These babys dig anything out, and you can use them as hammer. $15 and under.Crepe rubber sanding belt cleaning sticks. $8.50 for a 2" x 2" x 12" chunk. Last forever, and they really work.Dri-coat and Top-coat. Slicks up any surface. No messy residue. Spray Dri-coat on a coping saw blade when you're cutting big or hard crown. Zip, you're done. What's next?! $12 a can
*It has to be the self adhehisive plastic floor protection that both Lowes & home Depot carry. It's right around 10 bucks & beats the hell out of paying for a carpet cleaning. NOw can any one tell me how to convince my subs to buy their own?
*I do a lot of restoration work and use a four inch circular hole saw on a drill. $10 is obviously for the bit.It allows me to create standard access holes through drywall and cabinetry that can be refilled by replacing the cut out or by making a new one out of a scrap of the original material.$10,000 worth of tools and this is what I wear out
*Don't laugh, really. When I was a boy we had a retired age neighbor who wasn't as spry as he once was. He got up on his (black ashpalt) roof to fix something on a hot day, sat down, and before he could get himself back up sufferred burns on his backside which required hospital treatment!
*I like to keep a tube of GOOP handcleaner in each tool box and one of those real soft draftsmans erasers in my belt. Haven't sanded off any pencil marks in years.
*$10, No problem but, you have to make it yourself.Get hold of a piece of rifle barrel or tubing with a bore the size of your favourite common nail head or larger.Find a piece of case hardened rod that fits into that bore (sloppy is O.K.)Get yourself a cylindrical piece of steel (knurled would be nice) the width of your palm and, pin or otherwise attach it to the piece of rod.You have successfully made the world's best hammer for that impossible to reach nail.Simply place the nail in the bore, place the barrel where you wish to nail and bang away.Total costMaterial..................................$1Your time, 3 Hrs @ $3/Hr..................$9Total....................................$10
*Andy, I've lost track of all the responses in this thread, but wonder if anyone has mentioned the "crank" type screwdrivers by Klein which are used by electricians to remove/install cover plates, switches and receptacles. A flat blade and a #2 phillips both reside in my tool tray ... these beauties are great when a cordless driver isn't really needed.Regards, Steve
*General make a small scribe which retails for about $1.50. Nothing projects from either side of the scribe; consequently, it will go flat against ceilings or walls when scribing crown moldings, cabinet stiles etc.
*I think the 4 in one screwdriver ($6) is neat. It has 2 sizes of flat blades and 2 sizes of phillips on one shank. You can get the square drive bits to fit the screw driver also. great tools
*As a homeowner who does my own electrical work, I couldn't live (literally?) without my voltage sensor. It is like a fat plastic pen that doesn't even need to contact the wire to tell if it is live. Whether or not current is flowing, hot or neutral, bare or behind drywall, I can know for sure whether there are any live wires nearby.
*a ball of string & some scrap blocks of furring
*I've come on to jobs and found little foam cushions laying around and just thought the roofers were taking tiny naps.Learning something every other month, BB
*Undoubtably the most indispensible tools carried in toolbelts for less than $10.00#1 Speed Square (doubles as a scaper)#2 Utility Knife#3 Sanleys Wonder Bar II
*Tire plug kit out in the truck for nail punctures.
*MY FAVORITE TOOL IS THE STANLEY PRY BAR CUSTOMIZED WITH ANICE FLAT SPOT GROUND INTO THE FLAT END FOR CONTINUOUSE HITTING GIVES THE HAMMER MORE MEET.
*a phone book for whichever town I'm in that week.A real rafter square marked in twelth's of an inch on the back25' x 1" tapea calculator with trig functions8 oz plumb bob tied on a chalk box25' lenghts of of 1/2 nylon ropethe longest 10/14 or 18 tooth sawzall blades I can finda coffee cup that will stay on the dashboard5' pieces of 3" pipes to use for rollersScott
*Where can I get a titanium hammer?? LOve to try one!
*A ball of string. Synthetic braid prefered.
*Gotta be braided.Otherwise your plumb bob will spin all day.Andy,Most of the tools under $10 or even $20 that we use are things that most people have in their home workshops.A tape measure, a utility knife, a hammer....etc.Unfortunatly, most of the tools that are indispensable to us cost a bit more.I wouldn't consider hanging a door ( not pre-hung ) without my Porter Cable door plane. I hear that they are going to stop making it. ( damn them ) There is no other tool even half as good.The sawsall.....need I say more?The cordless drill....best thing since sliced bread.I bought one of those new DeWalt 10" table saw. Thought at first it was a toy. I also bought one of the Thomas Ulta (really small) compressors. Now I own two of those and the carpenters we employ ( 17 as of today ) are now fighting over them when at first they laughed. Same with that little Porter Cable mitre box. They love 'em. Light weight and accurate.My scribe. Not just a compass, the one made by General Tools. ( under $10.00 )Back to the under $10.00....Chalk boxes, nail sets, drift pins, small squares, utility knives......check the thread "What do you need in your tool pouch" Thanks for asking.Ed. Williams
*#1 a zip disk#2 email and web service(Breaktime just a phone call away)#3 Credit Card#4 Business cards, give out 10 a day...you'll do all right.#5 Your Head, costs nothing...but is our most valuable posession.L
*Lawrence. . . heads may be free, but programming and maintenance costs are high. . . did I say high?. . . don't get me started on the cost of that little item, file it under creative software (or stress management hardware) and definitely over $10.!!!-pm
*No one mentioned the 6" torpedo level , use mine a lot.
*Way to(o) lazy to go back through, but someone musta said Utility knife, but did they pronounce it properly?? Its i Uta-littysaid with a slight yodel. . . try it, it makes for a better sounding tool!!! -pm
*I own a framing comany here in Vermont and I keep two items in my "sacks" all the time.1 pair of nippers the are the best nail pullers and clippers around and the second is a Master Mechanics little pry bar the I have been using daily for about 7 years.Combined cost: about 16.00 dollars and I can't live without them
*Andy, The first thing you want to do is spend some time with the Lee Valley catalog. One of my favorites is the "Japanese nail set", It is an oversized unit with a small hammerhead at one end.It will easily countersink up to 16d for deckwork or rough openings which need to be powerplaned. Excellent query! RWeiss
*I'll second that one. . . my wife/santa slipped one into my Christmas stocking. . . great little tool!!!-pm
*I agree with Kerry, can't live without my 4-in-1 screwdriver. I sometimes remove the bits and use them in my cordless drill when I forget my regular cordless bits. Also, when drilling into masonry and using leaded "hit anchors" remove the bit and use the screwdriver's shank to gently pound in the anchor. The shank fits these anchor heads perfectly.Also agree with Deemark, the speed square is invaluable. Don't know of anyone who doesn't carry one in their pocket on jobs.
*A 36" wrecking bar. It makes mistakes easy to take apart without doing too much damage, even those nailed together with 6" ardox spikes.
*My current favorite is my palm sanding block made by 3M. It accepts a roll of adhesive backed sand paper in the front. It allows you to easily keep your sand paper fresh by simply pulling out the new, and tearing off the old. I like the way it fits in my hand, the way you can use the corners for corner sanding and it's stiff enough to stay fairly flat.
*This might be listed already, but I'm not about to go through 62 messages...Local hardware sells painters scraper/prybar, about eight inches long, really wide heads either side (about two inches) fine tapered ends. The curved end actually can be sharpened to a scraper point. I've found (as well as alot of guys I work with) to be absolutely indispencible for restoration/ trim work.
*My most recent cheap and wonderful surprise purchase, one of those stick on "note pads" for a tape measure. It's a circular thing that sticks in the round inset of a tape measure which you can write on and then rub off. It's a godsend for those of us that can't remember a number for the length of time it takes to get down off of a ladder. Paid a buck for it.
*At $0.18 per foot for clear 3/8ths ID vinyl tubing and $0.85 for a one-gallon jug of spring water I can make a water level, which is the worlds most accurate leveling tool. For $10.00 I can make one that can be used effectively for a radius distance of 80 feet, or better, using 45 feet of tubing and be accurate to level the thickness of whatever is used as the marking tool.
*Cement blocks. I use them instead of sawhorses for cross-cutting long boards or dividing up a sheet of plywood. They're the right height for hand sawing and for using one's foot to hold the board down. They can be arranged so that each piece is supported properly. For rough lumber, I use them as they are, and for finer stuff, I put either an old towel or a block of wood on top. I also use them to weight down my roller stands so that they don't tip.
*Without a doubt the handiest tool in my box or apron is a folding cut-off saw made by stanley. I can use any short sawzall blade in the saw and there is room for an extra blade in the handle. This saw can be a real lifesaver when you didn't remember to bring a saw with you to the second floor or up on the roof!
*I would have to say that my 2 dollar General scribers and my battery powered pencil sharpener are some of my best under 10 dollar tools. Also almost any Marples "Blue Chip" chisel is in that category.
*One of the best new tools for under $10 is the Penshar pencil sharpener for both sizes of carpenters pencils. The point stands up well to use on rough framing, and only takes a few turns to put a new point on it. It retails for $3 to $4.
*Contour gauge. Great for matching up moldings and marking contours.End Cuts. Great for cutting and pulling nails without marring surface.6-in-1 Screwdriver. Different size hex ends on each end doubles as nut driver.JRL
*Speed square, General scribe - those things are great - #2 pencils, safety glasses, ear plugs, and above all else, my eyes, hands, and mind - those come free and the most important tools.
*Insta-Mark pencils. Replaceable leads. Thick, dark lines suitable for framing (though not finish). No sharpening. Solved my years-long search for a sensible marking tool.
*I know that this doesn't fall in the normal category, but I'd like to add Smartwool brand socks. Everyone that contributed to this post is on his or her feet all day...why not "enjoy" it. Almost forgot, a hot cup of strong coffee.
*After digging through my carpenters box I've come to the conclusion that I have a lot of 'under ten dollar tools'that I NEVER use!Anyway my favorite has to be a short (approx. 6 in.) pry bar. It fits in my nail bag right along side of my utility knife.I believe it's called a Stanley Wonder Bar.It's worth ten times it's price when I'm removing trim on a remo job that needs to be reused.
*One of the handiest under ten dollar purchases I've made is for the brass buttons that you clamp to a framing to cut stair stringers or rafters. Another item is a self centering drill bit for installing hinges.
*Can't live without my NOBEX folding square from Lee Valley.You can get them in 6" and 10" I believe. It's extremely accurate and can be set for 90, 45, and 135 degrees. The best part is, it fits in the folding rule, or chest pocket of my Carhartts.Good Luck with the survey Andy.
*I don't see how these other guys missed Vicegrips. They act as screwdriver, wrench, hammer, have wire cutting jaws and, most importantly, they clamp things and stay clamped unlike channelocks or ordinary pliers. They do more things than any other tool and in some cases even better such as undoing a frozen screw a screwdriver can't budge.
*Spring loaded corner chisel.
*Roe I was thinking the same thing about those scribes and they're getting harder to find
*I'll have to say the greatest tool for under ten bucks is my Swanson speed square.Another good tool is the magnetic bit holder.TC
*TCYou must be new here, catchin up on all the old threads.. .about this speed square thing, consider yerself lucky that our old buddy thei Blue eyed oneain't hangin out here anymore. . . check the archives and consider yerself roasted in advance-pm
*Three items 1)forcepts, like little vise grips 2) one of those carbide tipped blades for scratching formica, I use it a lot instead of a pencil.3) a piece of 2x4 with a handy little trougth for getting glue on my biscuits.
*One of my favorites is a pencil sharpener with a belt clip. I bought ten of these from Lee Valley and have just about run out from giving them away.
*PM, Sure I'm new here, but not to construction. There isn't a trade I haven't mastered. From digging ditches to getting the morning Joe. And believe me I've gotten more static from putting sugar in the wrong coffee than I have from cutting the King Studs 11 1/2" too long which resulted in the whole sheathed roof being removed and reframed because it failed the height restrictions. Thank God I had the foreman to blame. Anyway Who is old blue eyes? And where in the archives should I be looking? Sometimes I have problems finding sites I previously visited. And by the way, what's the problem with speed squares? One of the most usefull tricks I've learned is to guide the saw with the speed square. When I'm cutting studs I mark my length on the edge of the 2X and make my cut. There's no need to draw a square line. And when I'm cutting angled cuts I lock on a framing square knock ( stair guage ) at the correct angle and do the same. I can promise you that I've amazed many a carpenter at the speed and accuracy of this technique. I've also sent in a letter to tips and techniques to FH on using Knocks on speed squares. I hope they use the idea from me and not from someone who read this site. Any more questions about speed squares? Gee I hope I wasn't reading into your post. And I hope you try and master this technique as I have. TC
*I wouldn't have a tool box without a 6" hacksaw in it.(The wire frame triangular type). Takes up next to no roomand is useful in small places. they have bailed me outof many an awkward situation from cutting off a padlockdown in a watermeter hole to cutting out a section of burstpipe in a place that would not accomodate a larger saw.
*F.H.B.- The timesaver award should go to the adjustable sliding bevel gauge( angle finder ) tool, very handy . For the more expensive killer tools , I would recomend the proctor wall jacks. I can't imagine not owning A pair.
*TCDon't take yourself so seriously, I wasn't yankin yer jock."blue Eyes" is i the blue eyed devilwho posts here from time to time. .. check the archives under "Speed Squares" I think he initiated the thread last winter and has some humourous & irreverent things to say about them. .. me I use a chop saw. ..one tick of my pencil, one pull on the handle, one square cut, any angle. . . my circular saw gathers dust unless I'm cutting stairs or birdsmouths, and my wrist says thanks sometimes 50 times a day!!!-pm
*Very small 4-6" vise-grips, removes broken screws, small clamp etc.
*Yeah, I like those little vice grips too. I really like the little ones with metal pads on them, make great clamps. - jb
*I'm giving away a trade secret. I can't live without my Hyde flatbar. Thinnest and strongest I ever found. Use for everything. No use for a speed-square, doesn't fit in my belt. Use in stead a Tri-square that doubles as a ruler. The Hyde costs eight bucks.
*PM, Sorry but I've been holding in that story for a long time. Had to get it out. And I realy love my speed square. By the way, how do you cut your TJI's, lam beams and sheet goods?Thanks for the welcome, TC
*FHB-Without a doubt the handiest item in my bags is a small Stanley Wonderbar- 7" long or so and can be used for just about anything. I feel lost whenever I misplace it.
*FHB I must say I have found these 6 in 1 screwdrivers to be very handy. I started out with 1 several months ago at the urging of a buddy of mine, I now find I have 3 or 4 of them around in different boxes. They run around 6 bucks and I haven't broken 1 yet.
*I have to agree that the Stanley Wonder Bar II, is the handiest tool in my nail bags. I first got one almost 15 years ago and was laughed at by the rest of the crew for the first week. On the folling Monday, everyone had one in their bags and no more laughing.
*I agree. I use the plastic speed square more often than any other tool.People often say to me, 'got to get myself one of those", after they see it's versatility
*custom made (by some retired guy many yrs. ago) 30" adj. rip fence of stainless for circular saw. Accurate production ripping where wider is better. Not made here anymore or for a long time. Everyone who sees it asks where it can be had. so help me, if anyone markets this and doesn't cut me in. Look out!
*cut-rite joist square by Frameworks the best for cutting I joists quick and square. Don't know how much they cost both the ones I have were given to me,but I love 'em.
*A good one is usually more than ten dollars, but an Automatic Center Punch is a very handy tool.
*Two of my favorite items for under ten bucks are the small Stanley wonderbar and a painter's 5-in-1 tool. Get the brass tip on the handle so you can hit it with a hammer. It is just the ticket for removing items to be re-used. Perhaps the best thing about them is that they can be resharpened so easily, yet they cost so little.
*Chainsaw :}
*I built my sawhorse legs out of scrap stock except for the tops:one 8' doug fir 2x6 cut in half cost me about $6. I'd put the horses on my shortest short list of favorite tools.
*I couldn't live with out my $4/$5 calculators.And its over $10 say maybe $30, but my micro cassette recorder is priceless to me. Speaking of micro, a micro screwdriver is entirely too handy to unjamb nailers, staplers and probe at things.
*Where o where have the real framing squares gone? Jim of Great White and David Rosendale (May issue # 130)are part of a dwindling number of carpenters that seem to recognize the importance of the Old framing square and its tables. Lost mine recently and would you believe I can't find a replacement with all of the tables and scales. Now I wish that I had memorized them as my father and grandfather did. Oh yeah; speed squares are great but just don't measure up when one gets serious about stairs and complex roof framing. Looking for supplier of ol time framing squares in stainless steel.
*JackYer not lookin hard enuf. . . lotsa Stanley Rafter Squares out there with tables on.. .aluminum and steel.-pm
*i'm not sure if veritas' square has all the tables you want, but they have a stainless square for about $30. -kit
*My Veritas sliding square, it was probably a little more than ten, but whose counting when it has so many uses. From marking notches for window sills, to center marking and scribing, and is conveniently the same width as many pre-fab newel posts.
*I'm surprised nobody mentioned DUCT tape... To me this is the most valuable under $10 item in my toolbox. I use it for splinter free cutting of thin material, shatter free cutting of surfaces during demolition, sealing dust barriers, binding bundles of small material and 1000 other uses every day.Bob from Idaho
*my favorite tool under $10 is what I call a preacher, it's a "U" shaped piece of scrap wood used to hook over a piece of base showing the cut line. Base must be up against door trim, plinth block or whatever. This didn't cost a dime!
*STAEDTLER MARS-870 it's a drafting pencil, the kind that uses a heavy chunk of HB lead about 6" long. Push the button on the back and out slides as much lead as you want. A clip to hold it on my pocket. No more shaving crumbly lead and manmade wood every three minutes. I think it cost under five bucks.The little wonder bar impressed me too!!
*These two: Vix bit. Self centering bit for drilling pilot holes for hinge screws. (Don't bother with the smallest 5/64" size; they snap like toothpicks.) Bigg Lugg belt clip for hammers and cordless drills. Brand is Prazi.
*Love those Dewalt bits, they hold the screw better, and seem to last foreverDavid
*Yea, and if you lock you keys in your truck, one quick push, the window will shatter siliently.Yea maybe mom was right, I did hang out with the wrong kids when I was young.David
*My six inch combination square. Little more expensive but greatDavid
*For any person doing restoration work who has had many skinned knuckles, cuts on his hands and broken too many window panes; my vote is for my $14.99 putty chaser.
*One of those square-shaft pry bars that look like a screwdriver with a bent tip. Mine's about 18" long and can be stuck in the back of your belt easily.This thing does every job from removing trim to taking out broken brick to raising appliances for setting them level.It'll even open a paint can in a pinch.Great for tweaking twisted door jambs, too!
*I bought my microsoft mouse, used, for less than 5 bucks. Using this tool I have gained knowledge of the best of several other tools. I have also used it to gain information I needed to do several jobs, as well as to help others to do work they needed information about.Ok, ok, so this is useless without the computer and modem it is connected to, but it is the part of the computer that I have direct connection with most of all, and it can be disconnected, so I figure that makes it a tool for less than 10 bucks. LOL
*You bought a USED mouse? No wonder the neighbor's cat doesn't like you. Joe
*LOLFunny thing is, I had gone through three new mice before I bought this one. Went to buy the fourth new one, and this one was in a box of used stuff on the counter, so I bought them both. The 4th new mouse didn't last any longer than all the other new ones. (A bit over a year and a half.) This mouse, a microsoft serial mouse 2.0, has now lasted more than 4 years. Used !!: )
*b TVMDCComposite Dial Calipers from Lee Valley which has a dual-scale Imperial dial reading both 64ths and 100ths, metric and inches on the caliper beam.4" is $8.75, 6" is $9.95.
*Russel and David, Forget Dewalt or any other brand phillips bits. Use only square drive screws (available from macfeely's if you can't find them anywhere else) and enjoy true happiness.Jon
*JonThose i square drive's are called Robertson in Canada, where they were invented about 200 years ago. . . bout time you wankers discovered them!! Course the patent has run out, that's why they are the i newest thangin Amerika.-pm
*Hard to beat the Wonderbar.It's the only tool I can get my girlfriend to use!
*The most valuable tool I have found is the sliding T-bevel at $6.00 for the black plastic and $9.00 for the redwood. You can't beat it for copying those strange old house angles.Eric
*For doing trim work i always have my small flat pry bar made by richards who usually make a lot of scrapers etc. one end tapers down super thin and is great for getting behind and removing delicate trim without trashing it. costs about 7 bucks
*Patrick & Jon, for some reason, they're also known as "square reccess" type screws; and you're right, they're the best. But the best $10 tool in my box has to be a Richard 5-in-one; the Richard version has a big beefy hard-rubber handle and the blade will hold a honed edge. Mine spends most of its life cleaning up glued joints.
*Favorite tools for under $10 have to include:beat up 1/2 inch Stanley chisel for utility work.small bent tip needle nose plyers - perfect for shaping copper wires around connection screws.
*The best stud finder for metal studs...only $1.50. Take two 3/4" rare earth magnets and place the end of a 4" piece of string between them. Hold the other end of the string and let the magnets dangle freely, flat against the wall.Move the string across the wall and the magnets will find the stud every time. Works better then a $40 electronic unit.
*One of those ratcheting screwdrivers with interchangeable bits mounted on the handle. And it's reverseable !No specific brand.For a road trip a great item to pack in a small tool bag along with a Leatherman and good pair a workgloves.
*The 2.99 carpenter's pencil sharpener.
*Mr. Engel,I've really enjoyed the FREE cutrite tool/square for cutting I-joists. Those FREE polycrystalline diamond blades for cutting Hardi board are awesome as well! The lumber guys around here are the best.Of the tools I've actually paid for....oh yeah, the awl that holds the end of my chalkline, that's a trick I learned here.The Machine
*My vote's got to be for the 4 in 1 screwdriver, I have 5 or 6 placed around the shop, in the toolboxes, etc. they come in handy all the time. I even have one in my belt, anything to cut down on the weight of that thing.
*The Best tool I consistently use is a 25' Stanly Tape Measure and under $10.
*I am a tool junkie, and a tightwad. a lot of my tools fall in to that $10 catagory. (probably a sucker for anything new, and/or looks like it will save 30 second of time (once I find it). but my new favorite (under $10) is a little low angle plane. now you don't get much plane at that price, it is a formed piece of steel, blade, holder with a screw. thats it 4 small pieces. it almost disapperies in a nailbag, but its there when needed. I have only had it about a week and have used it everyday. probably not high up on the needs list for a framer though. I do remodel and trim. David Jalovec
*Well It looks like everything is covered but I like in fact need at times my 4" machinist tri-square , my 6" scale, and my speed square as well as my stair lugs? (havin a senior moment here folks) those little brass buttons scewed on to framing squares to layout stringers. I used them with my speed square to cut tile in perfect 45 degree.theyre the same height as the lip on my speed square and table on mk770 tile saw. I also did I forget to mention my framing square, hey I dont leave home w/o it. Also my 5" bessey clamps i think theyre about 5 bucks each, i need to buy more of them man they come in handy for quick clamping things down (Sometimes I wish I had more than 1 hand on each side of my body.
*Does anyone else use "DeckMates" ? I had forgoten about this handy little tool until the other day when I was asked to make some outside steps out of PT (which turned out well enough that I've been asked for a deck too). If you haven't used them, they're made by B&D and are spacing tools for deck/dock surfaces. One way, the fins provide 1/8" spacing, turn it over and the fin is 3/16". It has guide holes for setbacks for nailing various widths of deck surfaces.
*Can't believe this thread is still active.... Those new(er) Japanese style cat's paws. Vaughn is now making them and they completely beat hell out of the older cat's paws that have been around for years. No comparison. None. Sam
*Just got a $10 drill at garage sale this weekend -- since thread is still active it is an old B&D all Al housing triple reduction gear 3/4" chuck (jacobs taper chuck no less) 300 RPM 6A AC/DC drill. Cleaned it, added reversing switch and 3 wire cord, best comparison found is a $400 Milw. drill at Grainger. 1-1/2 auger thru 8X8 in about 6 seconds.
*R Bell3" PINCH DOG, THE BEST ITEM TO CARRY IN YOUR NAIL BAGS. IT'S LIKE HAVE AN EXTRA SET OF HANDS
*A nail spiner especialy for hard wood trim
*There are a lot of messages here and I haven't read each one, but I would put in a vote for the small and very effective nail and trim pullers offered by Lee Valley and/or Veritas, they come in three sizes. I have the smallest of the three and it is truly valuable as a tool to keep in the box, costs less than $20 I believe. Second suggestion would be for bicycle and/or automobile inner tubes that have been cut up into useable wide rubberband like dimensions. I use them contantly to keep like items together, lids shut, wiring bunched, doors open, frames secured, cases closed, oft used bits and drivers held down on the drill body, place around the pistol grip of various tools for a better grip and the list goes on. My third and final suggestion is for the small magnetizer/demagnetizers that are sold from ??, mine just appeared in my box and it is quite handy to magnetize those screw drivers and other bits to retrieve things and hold on to them. Its great for picking up a small handful of nails or screws if its cold out or you need to separate items.
*Most favorite? Nah... Most essential? Defineatly! Pencil-cost $0, lumberyard gives 'em away
*I see that this has run for quite a while so I'll add my opinions.I have several little gadgets for under 10 bucks that are always useful to me. First is a $4.oo, 4 in 1 screwdriver. It has the reversible shaft that each end holds a double-sided driver tip. Second is my handy dandy 4 way rasp/file. I also use a siding tool that to be honest, I do not even know what the name is. It’s kinda like a nailset but you drop the nail into the end and them start whacking away at it. This way, you're not hitting your fingers in tight places, It's $13.00 or so.I think everybody carries the small prybar, painter’s tool and nail sets so I'll not spout their value however I will mention the most valuable to me most of all ... individually wrapped LifeSaver CreamSavers (price under $1.50 per bag).
*A small assortment of small clamps that can be used in place of a hand, when another hand is not available. Also, a sliding T-bevel is a great thing to have, it can really help you out.
*Here are some that I have not seen other mention.Artist pallet knife--very thin flexible blade for getting up under things like moldings or in cracks, to find fastners, apply glue, etc.Old Credit card- A very portable scraper with 4 usable sides, soft enough that it will not damage sufaces when used to scrape whatever off them. Less than 10$...Acually SAVES you money when you move it from the wallet to tool box!Hook/Handle for carrying a 4x8 panelUncle Bills Tweezers (avail from Highland Hardware)Mibro (?) drywall driver tip.
*easy...a $6.99 RED DEVIL scraper/flat bar.it is always being borrowed by co-workers, in fact, i just bought a second yesterday for that reason.most stores carry them in the paint department, but it is the best tool ever!If you are really looking for ideas for the magazine, i think you should feature this tool.gabe keway
*Ok, Ok, I know a lot of you cringe when i mention the words "Harbor Freight", but can't help but mention their 1/2" Pittsburgh Pipe Clamps. They usually put them on sale several times a year for $3.49 or so. Combine them with a piece of galvanized pipe (with the ends already pre-threaded) for $3 - $4 and you've got a great clamp for less than 10 bucks. Any length you desire - 36", 48", 60" etc.... I am amazed at what clamps go for these days. Those 24" Jorgenson (orange) ones sell for something like $15 - $20 !!!!! Its just a CLAMP for cryin out loud!!
*Andy, my favorites are:The Burndy wire mike-it measures ID & OD up 2 1/2 inches, measures wire size solid and large stranded wire, measures pipe dia. on thin wall and heavy wall conduit. Can't get along with out my set of nut drivers. Last but not least like my 3 in 1 electric motor 20 weight oil. I like the small can with the pull up red top. The top don't get lost. Larry
*Joey H. I tried to send you a email and did not go through. Can you please update your email in FHB? Can you tell me more about the Hyde Flat Bar? I could not find it on the Hyde web site. Any help would be great as I would like to know more about it. Thanks Larry
*Andy, I forgot a most important one. I use several Trophy plastic boxes in my handy man work. They are under $10. The box has two sides for larger items, a handle to carry, it has two trays one on each side, and a lid. They also stack on on another. I set one up for electrical work such as crimpers, pliers, wirenuts, strippers etc. Set up one for plumbing items. I set one up for electronic items also. I ordered mine from Trophy.
*Amazon.com... Tool Crib of the North is the site at Amazon you want to check out. I gotta admit I feel like the bad kid in the neighborhood...."c'mon and try it everyone's doin it!" I may have just ended your marriage or worse. You can browse through every imaginable tool your little heart desires along with reviews written not only by the manufacturer but by guys in the field like ourselves. I'll tell you right off the bat...buy a Stilletto titanium 14oz (that's right 14oz) framing hammer. No need to get crazy and buy the $124 aluminum handle one, just buy the hickory straight handle for around $70 bucks. It's steep but well worth it. It's all I use now and all I do is frame houses. Saves big time on the elbows and wrists and still drives a 16d in two or three whacks. You will definately have no regrets!
*Under ten bucks...that's easyFirst and formost has to be rafter/stair guage "buttonsSecond is the sliding bevel squareAnd this is the big one...the "exhumer" by deathstick. Sure it's a little more pricey (about $20) but it is well worth it. There are alot of small prybars, cat's paws and flat bars out there, but I truly feel that this one takes the cake. It will easily and with relatively little damage dig even deeply imbedded gun nails out of framing members. It will also dig nails out of joist hangers with relative ease. The other end has a regular nail puller which has taken a great deal of abuse from being whacked repeatedly by hammer blows. This tool also has a slight bend to it to pry walls up just enought to squeeze a sawzall blade under without binding...same thing goes for headers and kingstuds. All this and it has a blade changing wrench and bottle opener to boot. I couldn't imagine framing without it. Blade wrenches always seem to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. My belt is crowded enough so any tool that effectively combines two or more daily used tools into one is a hit in my belt. Besides with it's cool skull emblem and built in bottle opener, how can you go wrong. Best 20 bucks I ever spent!
*A couple things come to mind. The cloth bag off a Crown Royal bottle works great to hold my block plane. Price varies with however thirsty you are.I used to use one of these bags to hold the many screw bits for my driver/drill, but I found some small flexible-sided plastic bottles at HD with a slit in the removable end that work better. I don't remember the price but I don't think either the 3" or 5" bottle were over 10.00.
*Something I've learned to love for quick/small jobs is a cabinet magnet, it has a small hole in it to fasten to my tool pouch, and it beats the heck outa screws in the mouth. Plus it holds bits and prevents the roll away of that darn last screw! Junk 4" speakers work great for little bit bigger jobs too (ceiling fans especially!).
*for $8 the replacement covers for nokia cell phones are a deal. after about 6 months of being knocked around i can hardly read the display on the phone becase of scratches on the plastic window. new cover - new window.
*The new wire hammerhooks that can be hung on your belt or on a back pocket or just over the top of your jeans..Costs under three bucks
*You bet those square drives are a Canadian invention. What else would you use? If I get a hardware kit with Philip's screws in it I throw them out and replace 'em with Robertson screws asap. Yes in shop class Colorado 1970's it was explained to us that the Robertson drive is better but difficult to find.
*I got a couple. First and I think we can all agree with this one an ice cold beer. But we can't drink on the job, so the speed square. Spring clamps. A good glue bottle(started off as a subsauce bottle 2.99) a good caulking gun. And of course the hammer ring.
*Aaron,I have always called the thing with fingers a "featherboard."probably a regional thing.c
*Hi guys, I agree with everyone on the flat bars. I'll throw in a few of my choices: Small channelloks, I use them for pulling nails out of the backside of casing I want to re-use, just grip nail and roll it out using the curve of the big jaw. Four piece pick set used for light picking, cleaning and openning caulk tubes. Good paper towels, esp. when caulking. Small combo square. 6 in 1 screwdriver. 2 aa maglite. Good mechanics inspection mirror esp. ueseful for checking valves for corrosion or water deposits. Nail clippers. Fluke volt test. Stainless mini pliers in several jaw designs. Cable ties esp. the reusable ones.C
*My 6 in 1 screwdriver with 2 phillops and 2 flathead tips with the shaft size 1/4 inch and 5/16
*Andy,Back in January of 1999 I posted here about favorite tools under $10.It was the flat bar, close-quarters hacksaw, and a piece of garden hose for protecting ropes.That was about a month before I became the tool editor at JLC. In light of my experience over the past three years, now that I'm back out in the field, I'd like to amend that list.All good choices, but right ahead of them I'd put a plastic bottle of waterless hand cleaner (kept in the gangbox)and a fork. Probably not much room for a tool review there, but true. A clean fork has definitely become my favorite tool under $10. Especially because I still think about Kyle's post (#13) every time I reach for that little Stanley Wonderbar.Dave
*A box of 100 latex gloves: about $7 at Homer. Good for paint, stain, changing oil, sorting bottles for the deposit (a semi-annual fund-raiser for the Cub Scouts), cleaning the litter box.....Andy
*andy-excellent question and many excellent responses...1. 6 in one screwdriver and quick release chuck forcordless drill are excellent improvements!!2. paint can opener is much better than screwdriverand should be free with your paint!3. citra solv liquid is a big improvement over waterless cleaner.. (abet more expensive)your lunch will be more appetizing after you use it!!also is good for cleaning up wet paint drops and spills .. because it isn't oily it even will cleanslighty porous surfaces without leaving a oily stainof course also excellent on all kinds of oily stuff..**one thing to watch out for if you carry it in your car... put it in a container so it can't tip over..as it is very thin liquid and caps are not so great, the entire contents of a bottle will seep out in a matter of hours!!-john l
*Thanks John, it is one of the better questions I've ever asked, and it's going for the longevity record. Three years and counting!Andy
*i Three years and counting! I think people keep bumping it to the top just because they like to see....Andy EngelGuest User
*I was young, then, Luka. You should see what three years with you guys has done to me.Andy
*bearing guided- flush cutting -3/4 inch router bit
*STAN- Where do you get those for 10 bucks?
*Ken, I'll sell you a couple of used ones for $9.99. <>Andy
*Hearing Protection... I always have some cheapie earplugs in my toolbox in case I forget my headphones. I always get ribbed about it, but once a guy tries the headphones for a while you can bet he's gonna keep using some form of protection, usually earplugs so I won't have a chance to tease him back. It makes a big difference and once you're used to wearing them it's hard to use a tool without them.
*I almost forgot the best benefit of all, selective hearing! When you're wearing a big pair of orange headphones no one knows what you can hear but you.......
*Beer. Maybe a good pair of linesman pliers too. I paid $10 for mine, but that was over 15 yrs ago. Like I said, good pliers. At least the beer is still less than $10.
*If you're laying tile you MUST have a carbine-tipped scribing knife, wether you're using cement board or not. Mine is made by Q.E.P. (from HD I think, or Lowes). Great for cleaning your grout lines (the sooner the better) or getting thin set off the edges of the tiles.
*Just got a Johnson mechanical carpenter pencil . It has 3 extra leads in the top . just push the lead out to" sharpen" like the small box cutters. It retracts also.
*So give us a picture already.
*The cheapest tool I have, I stole it from plumber with him watching me .I cut a 6 inch piece of plastic pipe, one end bearing a 45 degree cut. I use it as a punch in dry wall for pipes. The handiest tools; little Stanley bar,retractable snap blade knife,five in one tool;you know the painters tool. It goes every where ,doing every trade. The five in one tool is the most versatile tool. Or is it the six inch snap blade knife ? Now Im confused.
*the ones i buy at eBay.brian
*All good answers so far.But nobody has mentioned knee pads yet. After 25 yrs. working on houses I wish I had started wearing them a lot sooner. The nailer a few people have mentioned is made by Slant Fin, the company that makes baseboard heaters. it's about 8 or 10" long, has a rubber grip and a knurled head. Great when you have to hold something up and nail at the same time, like gutters. Pneumatic nail sleeves,keeps you from cutting your fingers reaching fora tool in the bottom of your tool belt. Here are the rest of my choises. Small vise grips,nail set,5 in 1,small bar,Big Lugg tool clip,6" square,vix bits and outlet tester. mike A.
*Pencil pic. The leads have a lifetime guarantee!
*rolls of different colored vinyl tape to mark power cords at the handle and the plug so you know witch one to pull.foot switch: 1" tall aluminum box,25'cord,on/off push button switch 15a, Cut cord in half,drill holes in small end of box, drill hole in top of box. Use watertight connonters. Place switch in top and make hookups using solderless connecters. About $25, but makes a great way to turn off vacs and dust systems when hooked up to power tools.camel fat: small round candy tin,1/3 beeswax,2/3 vasiline,heat slowly and mix. Let cool,put lid on,makes great screw lube,won't run,stays soft.Stanley #31 angle divider: paid $15 at auction,easist way to layout and bisect angles there is, I know it is an antique but it works great. [email protected]