my dilema—————–i am estimating a job for removing older aluminum siding off the front of a 2-story resi house so as to use some for repairing the side of the house from tree damage. We will be putting on fiber-cement siding on the front to match the 4″exposure of the old aluminum. Underneath is cedar clap boards(probably from 1930 or so) and under that is most likely 1X10 TG boards with tons of knots. I was planning on ripping the cedar off as well and adding OSB directly to the old planks. I am a fan of tar paper so i would like opinions of the steps to take here. I was thinking maybe OSB—–tar paper——fiber-cement?????????/should i add a 1/2″ of polystyrene insulation over tar paper and then fiber cement. I am caught between because when i read James Hardie site they say you can nail over !/2″ styro but i read somewhere years back that fiber cement should be nailed directly to studs. Maybe i should fir the OSB board out from the stryro and go with Planks—-styro——furring—-tar paper and fiber-cement. Of course i could just forget styro cause the rest of the house has no exterior insulation anyway. Thanks ———-Confused!!
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Strip the shingles,install osb and 30lb felt. Install 1/4"x1" lath for starter and side with hardiboard.Forget the polystyrene and nailiong into studs is best but don't worry if you miss occasionally,especially with the boards behind the osb.
mike
that is what i was thinking. especially because i would think that those big old nails at 2X location will difinately get in the way at times. I just was not sure if the stryo was a good idea being as the rest of the house has a few layers of stuff on it anyway acting as insulation
why not nail thru the foam insulation and into each stud?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I am trying to figure out why he is putting OSB on in the first place.
If the house is anything like the old ones I used to work on, sheathing over the boards is a good idea. Most of the time I found the original sheathing was not up tight to each other. Often gaps up to 1 1/2" were between some boards. Wood shakes or shingles went over the boards.
First I renailed the original sheathing then osb or plywood over that. Then applied 30lb felt and siding.
mike
Thanks so much guys. I guess you all think the styro is overkill. I have done as much reading as possible about these different thickness polystyrene insulation that i feel like it is almost stupid to not use it when you are down to the original structure. But i guess when you do not do the whole house 1 way, what is the use!
And working this in to aluminum corners, seems like you need to fur out to the thickness needed to get in the corner post. What's with the client wanting aluminum siding and FC. Aluminum is a pain and expensive to repair. Little more info about this job might help
this stuff is not available anymore. i am going to just strip out those corners and change to either 5/4 or 2X material and just cut the siding as good as possible. then polyurethane caulk the seems. she is older and does not want to spend the money to do the entire house. the damage from the tree on the left side will be replaced with the leftover siding from the front. i will then computer match the color and paint the fiber cement siding the same. exposure the same also.
I don't think the styro is overkill. But then I don't believe that OSB is necessary either.
BTW, while you are at it you should at least have an option in your estimate to go ahead and blow insulation in while the wall is open unless it has already been done.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Underneath is cedar clap boards(probably from 1930 or so) and under that is most likely 1X10 TG boards with tons of knots. I was planning on ripping the cedar off as well and adding OSB directly to the old planks.
Given that your client is older and doesn't want to invest a lot of dough in this repair, I have to wonder what you're thinking when you propose to rip off cedar claps that would cost a fortune to replace today, replace them with unnecessary OSB...then nail cement board thru it into the studs...and then over-paint the cement board to match the old, faded aluminum. I mean, it just doesn't add up.
I understand about salvaging aluminum siding from one part to repair the impact damage elsewhere. But stripping that aluminum will re-expose the original cedar clapboards. For the one fifth the cost of what you are proposing you could scrape and paint those claps and be done with it...and you would make just as much dough (or more; you'd be selling mostly your labour as opposed to materials on which you only make a markup) while at the same time saving your client a bundle.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
good answer.
I was thinking the same. Aluminum siding repair jobs are at the bottom of my list. Fixing the corners to work out to any corner board renewal sounds like a pain. .65 a pound for aluminum right now. Most houses I see with aluminum have some other sding under them so no telling what's involved with repairs with that factored in. I woud cost out stripping the house, tyvek and vinyl to see how close a price it is.
That's not exactly what I was suggesting, Shell. Unless those cedar claps are completely destroyed--highly unlikely, given the quality of 30+ years ago--there is no reason to yank them and even less reason to replace ugly aluminum with even uglier vinyl.
Chances are extremely good that the aluminum siding was sold to the HO years ago by a fast-talking 'tin-man' working her side of the street, and the only thing the original clapboards will need once they're uncovered is a good scraping and a decent paint (or stain) job.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
or it could be that the claps never held paint. As a former tinman, wantabe, I resent the implication that they were sold. May have wanted less maintenance.
Our 120 year old clap are worn out and need to be replaced. Lots of splitting and checking and they look like poo. Sometimes things just wear out.
Skip the OSB, skip the foam. Just put 15# felt over the sheathing and nail into that. You'll be fine.
May have wanted less maintenance.
And I'll bet dollars to doughnuts that you're right, too.
99.999% of people who buy aluminum (or vinyl) want less maintenance...and are willing to trade away the looks of the house to get that. Only 0.001% of homeowners are sufficiently visually impaired that they believe the stuff looks better than the original wood siding.... ;o)
Seriously, tho: No offense intended to you (or any other honest salesman). If there weren't HOs out there who care less about æsthetics than convenience, very few square feet of that stuff would ever have been sold. All I can do about that type of person is avoid living within eyeshot of their houses... and wait till they sell to somebody with taste. When that happens, hopefully I'll get a call to restore the place.
But we both know there are high-pressure sales sharks out there on the street giving the rest of us in the business a bad name, and to those people I say, watch yer back 'cause I'm right behind you....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Cypress imprint hardie plank is good looking. And lasts
no warping leaking sap, twisting, knots peeling paint , splitting etc etc
I thing he was more referring to vinyl and aluminum.
True
the fiber cement is good stuff tho
I like it.
The days of salesman is long behind, liked to make something more than sell it.<G>
when you nail the lower edge of the siding, is the nail supposed to go through the siding which is under it?
no.... but you are face nailing.... with 6" or less exposure,we blind nailMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks Mike!.
by the way I had to change my screen name from mr fixit to wichita realtor Thanks again
how cum ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
We are currently in the middle of a built in gutter reline/re-roof project. Another phase of the project was to strip the aluminum siding and install fiber cement. On discovery, the original siding (poplar, I think. I haven't had time to pay attention) was mostly pristine. It was damaged in places by modifications to make the alum siding work, but they're in the process of repairing/repainting the original siding.View Image
"but they're in the process of repairing/repainting the original siding."with wood siding, they will be doing this for the next 20 years too.
with wood siding, they will be doing this for the next 20 years too.
Not necessarily. Prepped and painted properly, a good paint job goes about 10 years around here. The flashing problems that existed with the original job are being remedied. This house is c.1880. The original siding and trim are old growth lumber and have lasted this long, even with poorly detailed aluminum siding funneling moisture against it for the last 40-50 years.
I'm a big fan of fiber cement. But get back to me after some has been installed for 130 years. View Image
True but too many ifs on todays wood installations
if its good wood
if its straight
if it does not warp
if it does not ooze sap
if the paint stays on
if all sides are painted
if it does not mildew
if
if
But none of those "ifs" apply in the case I was speaking of.View Image
Grant, I would like to see what happens to fibre cement in 130 years, got any secretd on how you are going to accomplish that?>G<
got any secretd on how you are going to accomplish that?>
Not yet. But I'm working on it. I think the secret is to drink lots of beer. I'll keep you posted.View Image
you mean I have to start up again?
Mike, when I joined Break time a couple of years ago I had a different email address.I have a new email address now and so I changed my ID yesterdayNow I don't have to worry about important emails going to my old email address..(formerly Mr. Fix It ;^0)
I apologize for the thread hijack