Replies

1. 
   floorheater | Dec 15, 2005 06:48pm | #1

   We use the fiber cement a lot and love it, using the Aztec is a great choice for the trim boards, holds paint great.

   Non shrinking chalk is good on the nail holes. If you've decided on a color for the house see if it's close to the factory colors hardi has. not a lot more to order it prepainted and your all done when you hang it and save the money on having the painters out! Also a better paint job applied at the factory. Good luck.

    

    

     

2. 
   atrident | Dec 15, 2005 08:43pm | #2

   Hardie specs ASTM C834 or C920 grade NS class 25 for calking. I used urethane that had these numbers.

3. 
   csnow | Dec 15, 2005 09:22pm | #3

   "Which product works best for filling nail holes in Azek?"

   For small hoes, one way is to 'mix your own', by taking Azec 'sawdust', and mixing it with PVC pipe cement.  The resulting patch is the same as the original material, though somewhat less dense.  After sanding you cannot even find the patch.

   For larger holes, I have found that Bondo wood filler works really well.

1. 
   steverichards | Dec 15, 2005 09:37pm | #4

   Thanks Guys, I was concerned about the smooth texture of the Azek and how it holds paint. How does the Hardie siding compare to others? Also, are there any low maintenance options for soffits other than vinyl? I don't mind using vinyl, but it might look "cheap" alongside the siding.

1. 
   floorheater | Dec 15, 2005 11:40pm | #5

   Hardi has the soffet in 12&16 wide by 12' long solid or perferated real nice. We router a 5/16 groove in the facia to accept the hardi cap it w/frieze and crown and BAM!! no edges and looks like a millon bucks. <!----><!---->

    

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4. 
   Advocate | Dec 16, 2005 02:12am | #6

   PVC trim may not work with your windows and window details. Many people like to have the trim stand proud of the window frame, but for some windows, like Andersen, you need a minimum trim thickness of 1.5" net to acheive this. I did an exhaustive search and found none of the PVC stuff available in anything thicker than 1". It was very disappointing.

   In case no one has suggested it, the archives are full of discussion on Asek and paint. Just do a search.

    

    

   Advocate

1. 
   steverichards | Dec 16, 2005 06:41am | #7

   I did search the archives and found some useful info. Is it necessary to run trim around windows such as Anderson, or can the fiber cement be cut 1/8" shy and caulked? I have used cellular PVC brickmold that would give me the right thickness, but it'd be nice to get Azek in 5/4". Also, it seems that the 1" fiber cement trim boards are worth looking into as well. Thanks

1. 
   Advocate | Dec 16, 2005 07:07am | #8

   In case you think 5/4 is 1.25" net thickness, let me tell you that it's not. The PVC guys have adopted the lumber MO of using old time thickness designations.

   5/4 is actually 1" net, even in PVC; and, oh yeh, there is no Tooth Fairy.

   As for skipping the trim, yup, you can do that. Look at past issues of FHB, or even the window company websites. You'll see plenty of applications of no trim. The biggest hurdle can often be getting the wife to go along with this. Obviously, the most important thing of all is to make sure you have done an A+ job of window flashing.

    

   Advocate

5. 
   SkillSaw | Dec 16, 2005 07:12am | #9

   If you use finish nails, a heat gun will shrink the holes in Azek.  I have Certainteed fiber cement perfections & Azek.  I absolutely love these materials.  If you're neat enough with the Azek, you might not even have to paint it if you like white.  Acrylic paint works the best on it though.  Glue, glue, glue......Make sure to Glue the Azek with Azek glue.  If you install in the summer, you'll know why in the winter!!  The product is great to shape & mill to whatever design you wish. 

   Another good tip for Azek......Spray yourself & tools with scotch-guard (or similar anti-static spray).  The pvc dust clings to everything!!

    

   Enjoy,

   Erik