FInd Cable Saw that Cuts Metal?
OldHousePapa
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
Does anyone know if there exists a cable saw (the hand-pulled type… not industrial) that can cut through metal, like an old iron bar? Carbide impregnated, perhaps?
I’ve discovered an iron bar installed horizontally right through the void of my 1868 brick chimney that is preventing the install of a stainless steel liner. It would be a real time saver if I could somehow fish a cable saw 10′ up into the chimney to cut it out… and not have to open up the chimney mass itself.
–Jerry
(BTW, any other ideas on solving this problem, see my topic in the heating section).
Replies
Simple. Ask a former inmate. dental floss and cement dust..toothpaste as a binder..and the next 20 yrs.!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have seen string saws coated with abrasive grit for cutting tile. Could you tie strings to either end of such a saw? I dunno either.
I think you're dreaming, or incredibly optimistic. I'd spend my time investigating why they put it there in the first place and then remove the steel by displacing brick and then repairing the resulting damage. Watch structural integrity!
>>I think you're dreaming, or incredibly optimistic.
Well, over the years I guess I have been. I've often taken on dirty, sweaty, tedious jobs that later on I asked myself, "Why'd you start this in the first place?" Even though anyone who knows me will argue that I'm definitely not lazy when it comes to most DIY tasks, I WILL say I am lazy (tired really, after all these years). I'm always searching for the easy way out. (g)
Although my masonry skills are moderate, my finish plastering skills are excellent and I'm sure once I'm done getting in and back out of the chimney, no one would know I've been there. (s) Lord knows, I don't really need another project.
>> I'd spend my time investigating why they put it there in the first place and then remove the steel by displacing brick and then repairing the resulting damage. Watch structural integrity!
I've been doing just that today. One thing has been going through some of my historic restoration books (like Nash) and trying to find a reason for this bar to be where it is. So far, I've come up with a few theories:
1. It's a heat sink. To keep the heat of the chimney gases IN the chimney (attracted to the denser mass of iron bar and not the surrounding timbers).
2. It's an aid in creating better draft. After firing up the high heat during the kindling burn, the iron would heat up (10' uo the flue in this case) and the air above would rise... the air below it would be pulled up... helping keep draft going up.
3. Some sort of animal block. I doubt this. WHo would want a raccoon to get trapped 20 feet or so from the top of the chimney? They'd put such things on top.
I just got done doing some more measurements and can say with 90% certainty that this isn't a tie rod going though the entire main house mass. Also, I remember seeing a 1" brick ledge on either side of the location of the iron bar. Hey, for all I know, the thing is just resting on top of this ledge and I can just knock it off... IF I can shove something stiff yet flexible up there from the cellar.
--Jerry
Wonder if it wasn't to hang a kettle from, and just sitting there? Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I WILL say I am lazy (tired really, after all these years). I'm always searching for the easy way out. (g)
That's not lazy, that's getting smart. As anybody here can tell you it comes with age.
If you think it's just resting on the brick ledges can't you just get a big fish hook and go fishing from the top?
Toss the heat sink idea. If that was their motivation they would have put steel plates as a lining not rod(s) across the opening.
Second, the animal block would be insane at that level.
I like the kettle hanger idea best. Perhaps there used to be an opening in that vicinity.
Suspended sawzall sounds like a lot of grunting and groaning, bent blades, jury rigging, juggling on the top of a very high place, flashlights, rarely hitting the same cut line twice, tool risk, and frustration. I'd rather bite the bullet and open the chimney.
The dynamite idea would be entertaining. Let me know when, so I can rearrange my schedule!
could you not just use a coaxial flue insert, 2 3" flex lines ... they'ld fit around the obstruction ..
Guys,
Here in the hinterlands of Upper Bucks County, all I have usually is my wife to knock around ideas with. Although she's not all that hands on, she does think logically and clear, helping me to sort out some of my wandering ideas. This time around, I find it refreshing to talk about this sort of problem with a bunch of practical, hands-on guys like you all. Thanks for all the advice (and keep it coming if anyone else has input.) I just joined this forum (after having been a subscriber to all the "Fine" Taunton magazines for years.) You'll be seeing me around, for sure. (Besides, that damned DIY site shoved too much marketing/spyware and pop-up crap on my PC!)
So far, I think I'm watered down to trying to dislodge it first (thinking of making a strong U shaped end for a chimney sweep's flex rod). More than likely from the bottom since my 55 year old ankles can't deal with the 11/12 pitch of my roof--not to mention, that darned offset near the top. I'll try that within the next few days, I hope.
If I can't dislodge it, I'll probably wait for next spring (I'm just getting ready to crank up the furnace this week).
BTW... on the idea of the bar being a hanger for a pot. I don't think so. This isn't a huge Pennsey stone house with a walk-in fireplace. The chimney stack would have only supported wood or coal stoves... and besides, why would a hanger be right about at floor level with the second floor joists? Still a mystery.
Watch me give it a shove, have it fall down only to find it's some sort of old chimney sweep's tool that just happen to fall in and lodge itself perfectly and symetrically across the middle of the chimney! (g)
--Jerry
Might try lowering a powerful magnet on a rope--that way the thing won't get away from you and fall, possibly damaging something.
If you can figure out what's holding it in, I would just drill out the one or two bricks, pull the bar and mortar the bricks back in.
Or
Go up on the roof and lower your Sawzall down the chimney on a steel rod . Attach it with hose clamps and lock down the trigger. Once the sawzall is in place, plug in the tool and hold on. Although unorthodox, I'd bet you this would work very quickly.
how far from the top of the chimney?
YCF Dino
About 18-20 feet from the top... About 10' from the bottom of the chimney where the furnace flue opening is.
--Jerry
I was thinking something similar to Tomc.
Try the ez way first. Fish hook or lower some weight few times.
even throw two strings from the top. tight a larger rope from the bottom and pull few times.
Or, throw a rope from the top and pull from the bottom.
Or... dynamite. you said that you're a good plasterer.
Good luck.
YCF Dino
During WWII, the British equipped their airmen with flight boots containing several handy tools for survival and escape. The boots were designed with a web around them just below the ankle so that the tops could be easily cut off to make the boots look like civilian shoes. Knives were concealed in the boots, along with several other goodies.
In the laces they placed extremely fine cable saw blades, of a style originally produced for surgeons. The blades could fairly easily cut through mild steel bars.
(So, all you need to do is find a pair of WWII-era British flight boots -- with the original laces.)