I’m making some picture frames, and have a question about fine-tuning the glass. Is there a way to do it efficiently without causing the chips that can show? I’m thinking along the lines of a file, if that woud work. Thanks.
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I use the coarse side of a cheap sharpening stone -- works well.
IanDG
Not from an expert, but from watching my wife do weierd shapes and curves for stained glass:
Wet sanding with a power tool goes pretty quick. She has a 1" diameter sanding drum in the middle of a plastic table with water spray. I'm thinking belt sander, a second person with the squirt bottle, and a steady hand. Mark with a grease pencil or laundry marker because you'll focus on the small area and lose your overall perspective.
If your frames are wood, glass that is tight when the weather is hot and wet will not be when it is cold and dry, or the other way around, whatever.
Wood moves, glass doesn't. You might be better off to cut it a little loose in the frame and not worry about it.
Believe it or not, both of the glass shops I worked in back in the late 80's used a belt sander with an 80 grit belt. Don't stay in one spot too long or the glass will get hot and the edge will chip.
Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
A little spray of WD-40 or denatured alcohol will make easier work of the glass, whether single or double strength. And get a good glass cutting tool. Mine has several little cutting wheels on it instead of the cheap one that has one. Use a belt sander or random orbital sander to take scraggly edges off, if neccessary. A piece of plywood covered with a scrap of thin carpet makes an excellent glass cutting surface that can be a temporary benchtop surface.
If you make a clean enough cut, and you have 1/16" or so at the perimeter, you'll be fine. I assume you are putting a dust cover on the back, they make the job look real professional.
FYI, professional framing shops never sand the edges of picture frame glass, not even the conservation clear glass that costs about $30.00 for an 11 x 17.
If you are using regular window glass, you might find it just as cheap to get it cut at the hardware store. Measure your rabbets and take an 1/8" off.
My shop has a dozen or so picture frames go through it this time of year.
Do you cut your own mats?
Good Luck rg
Dipping the cutting wheel in a small container of sewing machine oil works really well too. Good tip on the carpet but make it indoor/outdoor with no padding or there may be enough give in it to crack the glass while applying cutting pressure.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Thanks for all the feedback everybody. I really don't have a clue what I am doing, but it's ended up decent. Could be better, but I guess I should take into consideration that I've never done it. I put the glass in place with a clear silicone, and then I figured I'd buy some thin cardboard (tagboard?) like they use in elementary schools as the back for it. Again, I am always more than welcome for suggestions.
About the plywood with carpet-were you using that as the truing material? Using the carpet as the abrasive?
I would steer away from the cardboard backing. Try and find something that is nonacidic and wont deteriorate your art work. A good art supply store will have several options.
About the plywood with carpet-were you using that as the truing material? Using the carpet as the abrasive?
No, just to make a nice solid layout surface to lay the glass on while you are cutting it or touching up the edge with the belt sander.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Please don't use silicon to hold the glass in! It's not necessary.
Start with the frame: ensure that the rabbet is cut deep enough to accept the combined thicknesses of the glass, the mat board, the image, and a foam core backing. Usually this is about 3/8" to 1/2". It really doesn't matter if the rabbet is too deep, you can add more or thicker foam core to fill it up.
When you have measured your rabbet opening (- 1/8"), acquire your glass, mat, and foam core. Most professional shops offer a plethora of "Acid Free" mats, which are not always necessary, unless you want to preserve the only surviving photo of your grandparents, or just want to spend the extra money. If you are framing a standard sized photo, you can find pre-cut mats in standard colours at an office supply store or art store. If you are framing a non-standard size image, you MUST have a mat cut custom, to make it look right. Usually about $10.00-12.00 each. MOst framing shops are happy to cut you a custom mat. You can get the foam core there also, if you want them to cut it for you. They will mount the image in the frame also.
You can use regular window glass, every shop does, but it will have more glare. If you choose a more specialty glass, like "Conservation Clear" glass, you will have a glare-less view of your framed image from all angles. That type of glass has a coating which diffuses the glare normally associated with typical window glass. Too expensive if you ask me. Only for the heirlooms.
Foam core is available at every office supply store, but an art supply store will have every thickness up to 1/2". This is what you use as a backing, to decrease the trampoline effect you will get if you use regular corrugated card board. I like to make the foam core fit pretty snugly, but not so snug so it bellys.
You will also need some double-stick tape. Art stores sell a specialty tape that's hard to work with, and costs $8.00 a small roll. I usually improvise with whatever strong DS tape I have around. And get a handful of small brads to hold it all in the frame.
Finally, acquire a piece of "Kraft" paper (usually brown), that is larger than your frames outside dimensions. It is basically paper for making grocery bags.
Now the fun part!
Once you have collected all of the above materials, you are ready for assembly.
Take your prefinished frame and lay it face down on a smooth surface. Insert glass. Use Windex to clean the glass. Wait until it is COMPLETELY dry.
Place the mat and mounted image in the frame. Place the foam core in the frame. Press it in and hold it to check the image's squareness in the frame. That is why I like to have a snug fit, in case the image needs adjustment, FC will hold it in place. Most framers put enough FC in to the lip of the rabbet, but you can leave as much as 1/8".
Take a small brad and start driving it tight against the foamcore into the back of the rabbet. A small trim hammer works, but you should probably buy a specialty tool which squeezes the brad into the frame. The brad HAS to be flush with the FC. A cheap one is less than ten bucks, though I've used a pair of channel locks, with a pad to protect the frame, in a pinch. Install several brads around the perimeter of the frame, until everything is held in real well.
Apply the double stick tape to the backside of the frame in preparation for the dust cover. Take the Kraft paper and roll it onto the tape, ensuring no large air pockets. Turn the frame over and trim the extra paper off with an Exacto knife or a razor blade.
Measure approximately 1/5 from the top of the frame. Mark both side legs of the frame with a dot at that location. There are where you will install your hook eyes. Poke a length of picture hanging wire through the eye and wrap several times around itself. Poke the wire through the other eye, holding the wire as if it were hanging on a wall, leaving a half inch or so from the top of the frame. Wrap it several times around itself on that eye hook.
Sign the back of the dustcover so your family will know you did it.
So many people go to Walmart for cheap frames, and they're okay, but the quality that comes with a gift like that proves it thoughfulness.
Good Luck. rg
Pretty good summary, ricky.
Like David Thomas' wife, mine also does stained glass art work. We also do custom picture framing. The only thing that I would add is cut the matt and glass before cutting the frame, or at least figure out those demensions first, then add the 1/8" to get the frame size (inside rabbet).
Good glass cutters can be purchase from stained glass catalogs. You won't find them at art supply stores, home centers, or even picture framing supply stores. The good are oil filled, self lubricating, and a pleasure to use. Cost about $20.00+, but should last many years.
Dave