My new house has an ICF basement with SIP walls above that. The ICF is covered with PLATON from the footing up to the top of the rim board. I plan to staple mesh on the SIP wall down to a flashing of some sort at the bottom of the rim board and then finish with stucco. I don’t know what to use to cover the PLATON from the flashing down to or a little below grade except I don’t want it to look like mobile-home skirting. One wall of the basement is a walkout. Any suggestions?
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Greetings Sam, As a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
Peach full,
easy feelin'.
carry the stucco below ground elevation
I would cut the platon off at or slightly below grade. Then you can finish the ICF's any number of ways. "real stucco", synthetic stucco, even siding of some type. Platon sells a little flashing strip that seals the top of the system.
I thought about that and then finish with fake rock down to or slightly below grade. Now I've heard that fake rock also will suck up water just like stucco would if carried to grade. As for the PLATON strip flashing, I used that on the vertical seams but I think, if used horizontal, it would gap every 8 inches between fasteners and negate the value of it as a barrier.
Landersam
This was in the latest FHB. Looks like there is a problem with fake stone below grade.
Rich
Manufactured stone needs to drain
The cover article in the December/January issue, "Working With Manufactured Stone" (FHB #192) overlooks one of the mysterious details: how the stone meets, or does not meet, the ground. At the Cultured Stone Web site (http://www.culturedstone.com), Owens Corning makes it clear that the stone may not touch the ground. A separation distance of not less than 4 in. must be maintained (2-in. separation from pavement). Manufactured stone is more like stucco in this regard than stone. Ground contact prevents rain-soaked manufactured stone from draining.
Visually, this is quite a problem. What does the author recommend occur in this 4-in. gap between the bottom of the stone and the ground? What happens when the ground slopes along the building line? Does the line along the bottom of the stone slope, too? This issue certainly undermines the “real” appearance of the stone.
—Joel Schwartz, via email
Author Brendan Mostecki replies: You’re right; manufactured stone should never be in contact with the grade, a guideline that I should have stated clearly. The stone installation featured in the article was part of a whole-house remodeling project that included excavating around the foundation and backfilling with crushed rock 2 ft. to 3 ft. out from the foundation in lieu of roof gutters. The crushed rock beneath the manufactured stone allows it to drain.
We used the existing grade to start our base course in some areas, and in others, we used 2x4s to elevate the stone above grade. The stone definitely follows the grade, and in some locations, our customers did not want a 4-in. foundation reveal. They wanted the stone down to grade on piers, stairs, and the front of the home.
All contractors, including masons, are in the catering business. We want happy customers, so we cater to them. I always point out that the manufacturer does not recommend the stone coming down to grade, nor do I. But I believe the crushed-rock backfill eliminates much likelihood of a problem.
What the hey is PLATON!
It's a brand of dimple membrane. http://www.korit.com/platon.htm
I'm a home owner, not a builder, so for what it's worth...
My experience with stucco below grade is that it soaks up water and pops off the wall. I can't recall which professional-type person gave me this explanation for the popping stucco, but I do know that when I did have a bit of stucco replaced during a remodel they ran stop flashing a few inches above grade.