I have plaster ceilings.
I was not able to demo them during my renovation.
There are two rooms that I just do not like their condition. I think it would take too much time and labor to try and fix/repair than my proposed alternative.
Which is:
If I were to fur with 1x’s nailed into the truss chords, would it be ok to then drywall atop that? 1/2″ would be suffice if the furring is 16 oc?
What about existing air ducts? I cannot lower them, are their vent extensions for the new 1.25″ drop?
I would have like to have just laid some 1/4 or 3/8 over the plaster, but i’m not sure the ceiling would hold the weight, and it is too wavy as it is.
Your thoughts and input would be greatly appreciated.
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Replies
stra;p the cieling as you propose...
rock...
make yur own extensions from sheet metal....
keep in mind the added weight of what yur gonna do....
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use 1/2 high strength ,also called ceiling board,#### won't sag that way. i usally just screw the drywall to the plaster. if it's really wavy the firring strips are the way to go. larry
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What's the problem with the existing ceilings?
If it's just cracks and crumbles (i.e. water damage), you can laminate with 1/2" or even 1/4" sheetrock.
Stay away from the 1/4" if flatness of framing is an issue.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Edited 1/22/2008 1:12 pm ET by JDRHI
Worried about dw screws missing the wood lathe and not hitting anything.
Not sure how great a shape the existing is to support the added weight if attaching only to the wood lathe (no way in heckfire could I get a 3" dw screw into the truss chords the wood is HARD)
and the roundness, sagging or many areas.
I really wish I could go that route, I just think that this maybe the better alternative.
The other benefit is the current finished ceiling height it 8' 2" +/-
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PL and laminate screws (which grab plaster) can help where hitting joists and lath is a problem.
But if sagging is an issue, your route would definetly be better.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
What's a laminate screw?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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Sheetrock laminating scrwews are usually short and coarse. Short because there's no point in going too far past the back face of the second layer, and coarse so it bites into the gypsum and paper. Frequesntly the layers are glued together with white glue, and the screws hold until the glue sets up. "Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
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ah, yes. For joining two layers of drywall. I've heard of them, but never seem them around.
Thanks for the explanation.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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Also, often called "rock to rock" screws.
We have done that quite often.
Use good screws to screw up the strapping and it will suck the plaster tight up against whatever is behind it - just make sure you are screw into framing and not airpockets.
Easy to fashion an extend for ducts from sheet metal, or you can have a SM shop make up pieces for you to slip in.
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I've installed a lot of new sheetrock ceilings right over old plaster- no strapping needed.
If the plaster isn't too wavy, its the way to go.
I've used 2 to 3" DW screws, or long roofing nails to hold everything up. I actually prefer the nails, because I feel like I have more control in what I hit, and how deep they're sunk. It does wear out your arm, tho. LOL
Thanks everyone.
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