I recently ordered clear fur frech doors for a client, the doors were to be pre finished but showed up un finished I live in a remote site and so now ill have to do it by hand, the lumber store recommended clear shield by minwax, the doors are high dollar and I don’t want to screw them up with a cheap finish. any advice or help grately appreciated.
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If they are interior doors, I would recommend Waterlox. Find their website and look at the product specs. There is a sealer they make you might want to use before clearcoating.
Auther-- I don't get into finishing much ( I don't think many carpenters do ) but I did finish the 6-panel pine doors in my own house using Crystalac water-based finish and an HVLP set-up. I was able to give each door three coats on both sides in a day, and they look great. I get the Crystalac through McFeely's in Virginia. Their web site is http://www.McFeelys.com.
I built all the doors for my new house, and finished the interior surfaces with spar varnish using an HVLP gun. 3 coats as I remember. I used spar varnish because they all get direct southern sun in high altitude. Oh, yes, they are all divided light glass doors. I finished the exterior surfaces with SW primer and Duration paint.
We shall see how they hold up
STef
Edited 8/19/2003 9:50:57 PM ET by stef
My doors are all on inside walls and get very little direct light. The first two I did about 6-7 yrs. ago still look very good with no special treatment. The ability to remove, finish, and replace a door in a day is what sold me on water-based finishes. That, and the absence of solvents in my house.But the important thing is to use a method that works for you.
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The ability to remove, finish, and replace a door in a day is what sold me on water-based finishes"
What kind of water based finish can get you this result?
Mad Dog-- As I said in an earlier post, I use Crystalac Premium 2000 finishes, which I get thru McFeely's in Virginia. I'm sure that there are other similar products, but this works for me. The instructions say that you can recoat in 30 minutes, but I've never been able to work that fast!
What kind of look are you after? VG fir looks great with a varnish finish.
I use spar varnish cut about 50% with turpintine and some Japan drier added. Give it one thin coat to seal it, then scuff it when dried. Another cost of that, then add some varnish to the remaining mix and finish with a wet coat of that.
You may get away with that, or maybe another coat will be needed.
For interior, plain old shellac is a pretty easy to work with finish.
Joe H
Head over to knots. (Fine wood working, button to the left of Breaktimes') Some major knowledgeable folks there.
Put out a call for Goldhiller or RW.
Well, you've got five responmses so far with four different directions.
It depends a little on your skill with finishes and what you want to end up with. Water based clear coats are easy to work with, fast, and they give a very clear finish.
Oils are slower and smelly but they bring out the rich colour tones in fir wood nicely.
If you don't want a high gloss and like the soft amber tones, a rubbing oil is a good way to go. You can touch up and repair it later. It is just a matter of rubbing oil into the wood with a rag several coats.
If you are not experienced with spray rigs, this is a poor time to learn, IMO
Excellence is its own reward!
I built the front door for my craftsman home out of western red cedar. I used danish oil. There's no sign of deterioration of the wood after 3 years. The door is weathering slowly, on its way to a gray. Some waterspots show. If a weathered patina fits the style of the house, then this finish may work for you.
Where are the doors going? Interior / exterior, are you staining, what tools do you have to work with? If you don't have spray equip, does that mean no airless or nothing at all that sprays, like a cup gun? What sheen are you wanting? A little direction as to what end result you would like to have would help a great deal in steering.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
A bit more info would be an aid to all of us in making suggestions.
Interior or exterior?
If exterior........geographical location/climate..........facing what direction..........any additional protection such as setback,large roof, or storm doors.........AC or not?
I suspect interior, but I'll be wrong of course. <g>
If interior,...... stain/color adjustment or just clear finish?
Dogs,other pets or young children in house that may scratch doors requiring periodic renewal?
Your finishing skill level? Experienced with spraying clear finishes?
Etc.