Does anyone have any tricks for dealing with preprimed fingerjointed pine? The rough texture and numerous blemishes in the both the finish and the wood ,make it tough to finish for inside paint grade appearance. My best plan is to fill. sand, resand, reprime, then finish coat, probably twice.
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Tear it out and put in some nice quartersawn oak.
By the time you're finished fooling with that fingered material, you'll probably be further ahead.
I just bought some preprimed Finger-Jointed crown yesterday to do some tests on different paints under differing humidy conditions and environments and the stuff is so well primed that unless you look at the back you wouldn't know it's fingerjointed.
Luck of the pick I guess. Differnet mills maybe? The stuff I got looks great. Over on JLC some folks there well giving it bad reviews so that's what inspired my interest in testing it out.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go
instead where there is no path and
leave a trail."-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
After filling the worst of the blemishes try scuffing it down with some 220, and scuff it again with a maroon pad after the first coat. Not enough Os in smooth.
I think a lot of that roughness is grain raise.
Edited 5/29/2002 6:20:14 PM ET by luvditchburns
you have to pick your material look close if the material is to rough or has surface imperfection you are just buying more work finger joint material works fine but if your customer expects a nice smooth paint finish you have to get better material solid poplar works very well but you will still need to sand and prime and sand against paint laying on a lot of paint so it will level as it dries I like to paint the mouldings before cutting and hanging and then give one more touch up coat
I have never had a problem. I mran sure you run into a bad joint every now and then, but you just patch it up. I think the stuff is great and "green". As matter of fact, I break these joints on purpose sometimes to manipulate my crown. Apply the glue and then re-glue it. Do you really wanna buy poplar?
Cutawooda- With the stuff I bought the other day the intent was to see what could be behind some of the guys over on JLC pooh-poohing it. I thought it might be the integrity of the joints so the first thing I did was try to break a couple of sections apart at a finger-joint and I couldn't. The pieces broke near (within 3/4") of a joint but not at the joint.
Like I said earliuier I think it probably all depends on the mill that fabricated the stuff and supplied it to the lumber yard and even then within a lot I am sure there would be a little bit of variation and some problems but the stuff I got the other day was great looking stuff.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go
instead where there is no path and
leave a trail."-- Ralph Waldo Emerson
I've been using a product called Prime-Lock which is fingerjointed, sanded, and primed twice. Comes in standard sizes of flat stock and t&G beaded boards. Princeton Classic Moldings also made of it with the primer buffed smooth. Sixteen foot lengths only. You have to look very close to see the fingerjoints.
It's 2-1/2 times the cost of #2 pine but worth it when you figure waste and paint labour. Customers love it.
piffin - Is that the same product or similar to GP Prime-Trim? I am residing my house this summer and I have been tossing around different options on pre primed trim and the Prime-Trim keeps popping up.
Any thoughts on exterior trim?
Thanks
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.
I use the GP Prime trim too for appropriate locations. It is about 9/16" thick by 12" wide and a hardboard material like masonite. It handles water well (think fascia). Breathing the dust is a killer - like MDO.The Prime lock is a finger jointed pine, nicely finished.
Pine is much easier to work than the hardboard which pretty much requires predrilling to nail it and corners need glue because nailing too close will cause an explosion.
Excellence is its own reward!