Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 03:44am | #1

   *
   sorry about the deleted message,i goofed.

   get a warranty.if it is the manufacturers
   reccomendation he should warranty it.

2. 
   Doug_Rader | Mar 29, 2000 05:32am | #2

   *
   Whoops! The manufacturer is the manufacturer of the flooring, not the tung oil. But that gives me an idea - maybe I should contact the tung oil manufacturer and find out what they think.

   Thanks.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 05:38am | #3

   *
   Doug, cut to the chase... McKloskeys GymSeal tungoil-based Varnish.
   "A #1" top choice as far as I am concerned.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 2000 02:59pm | #4

   *Put a small amount of both finishes in a babyfood or other type of small glass jar, mix it well and let it sit for a couple of hours, stays mixed...use it, separates....scrap it. Sounds crazy but grandpa did it, dad did it, I do it, and it seems to hold true. We do it when mixing finish colors and or types and it has'nt let me down yet.....?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 06:55am | #5

   *Doug, Another option is to use Duroseal. They make a floor finish which I cannot remember the name, but it is a clear sealer heavy on the solids which colours and acts like a oil finish. Top coat it with Duroseal polyurthane floor finish, as many coats as you want. The stuff smells and takes a while to offgas completely, but it gives an incredible finish. I use tung oil alot and do not see why it would not work with a polyurethane. Chris,s idea is a good one. Or try a test sample on some flooring. As an tangent thought, I like using a mix of 1-1-1 tung oil, turpentine and marine spar varnish. I have used it on exterior and interior trim with good results. It looks like an oil-rubbed finish but more durable and quicker to finish. I brush it on the wood and let it soak for 10minutes then wipe it off with clean rags. 2-3 coats does it. Have not tryed it on floors so know nothing about foot traffic durability. walk good david

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 06:13pm | #6

   *Dug, I've seen many floors finished with an oil based sealer then top coated with three coats of a high-end waterborne ploy such as Street Shoe or Easy Street. The sealer really brings the grain out and leads to a beautiful floor. Don't skimp on the quality of the finish materials and you'll have a long lasting and durable floor.David Tailor, Steven's Point, WI

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 06:14pm | #7

   *Doug, I've seen many floors finished with an oil based sealer then top coated with three coats of a high-end waterborne poly such as Street Shoe or Easy Street. The sealer really brings the grain out and leads to a beautiful floor. Don't skimp on the quality of the finish materials and you'll have a long lasting and durable floor.David Taylor, Steven's Point, WI

4. 
   Doug_Rader | Mar 30, 2000 08:02pm | #8

   *
   David,

   I'm planning on going with oil-based poly; think that makes any difference?

5. 
   Doug_Rader | Mar 30, 2000 11:15pm | #9

   *
   I'm having floors of quarter-sawn white oak, yellow birch, and cherry installed and am receiving conflicting advice regarding the finish.

   First off, it's a given that the floor will have 3 coats of polyurethane on top. The issue is that the manufacturer and an installer the manufacturer recommends both suggest putting 1 or 2 coats of tung oil on the wood before putting the poly on it. This is supposed to give the wood a more pleasing appearance once it's fully finished.

   Another installer has told me that he won't guarantee that the tung oil and poly won't separate sometime down the road. The flooring manufacturer's recommended installer says that tung oil and poly bind just fine.

   Anybody got any experience, suggestions, or opinions to offer?

6. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 11:15pm | #10

   *
   Just curious -- would any of the finishes described above be suitable for a wooden kitchen countertop (planks, not butcherblock). If so, how would they take heat?

   Tina