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Haven’t decided between oil or varnish/urethane, but wondering if just top or do both sides (top and bot.)need the same finish. Once installed it’s quite difficult to finish the undersides.
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If you're sealing the top with a cured, film-type finish, you should do treat the underside of a wood countertop the same as the top. Some do not, however...they feel that the fasteners that hold the countertop to the carcass can be detailed to prevent the wood from warping and wandering.
For a penetrating oil finish, I still prefer that the bottom be treated as the top, though I don't think it as critical as when you're using a film finish.
On teak? Oil.
Oil, oil, oil. Easily renewed, easy to repair, looks great, tastes great, less filling.
*Mongo- Makes sense 'cause I beleive teak is oily to begin with.
*Ken,There is a cabinet shop I know of that does it...but the way the owner described it to me, they actually soak the wood in some solvent to remove as much oil as they can. Then they apply a 2-part, I think catalyzed-type of finish. He told me it "penetrates" into the teak to give it some grab, then cures.He did say that once you go this route, you're essentially stuck with it. Neither the initial appplication, renewal, nor future repairs are of the DIY variety.They don't warrant cured film finishes on teak, either. Ir's a top-of-the-line shop, so that probably says enough right there. I never much looked into it beyond curiousity. Most teak is simply oiled.
*You might want to ask at the woodworkers' site.
*i used 3 parts tung oil, 1 part di-citrusol, 3 parts beeswax warm to dissolve wax
*I would think any hard finish is doomed from the start. Even building up tung oil is going to cause problems. Yes?
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Haven't decided between oil or varnish/urethane, but wondering if just top or do both sides (top and bot.)need the same finish. Once installed it's quite difficult to finish the undersides.