Replies

1. 
   calvin_ | Mar 01, 2001 03:11am | #1

   *
   Your explanation is ok, it's mine I'm worried about. Depending upon tools available, you could plane it to fit, maybe even cut the taper on a table saw. If you decide to do that, plan each cut cuz that pc of wood isn't going to have many flat sides when you get done. Above all, be carefull. I usually make all thresholds/transitions on a table saw, plane, and sand. Practice up on some scrap. Glue, screw and plug with the same wood/grain and it'll be a beautiful thing that can take the abuse.

1. 
   Greg_Brown | Mar 01, 2001 09:27am | #2

   *Calvin is right- if at all possible taper the threshold to match the non-matching floors. -lol- this can be done as Calvin said on a table saw, but that can be a bit hairy- a safer way would be to hand plane, but that would take a long time. If I was at the jobsite & didn't have a table saw worthy of resawing I would choose a grinder- it will be messy, but you might be surprised how much material you can quickly remove with an abrasive sanding disk on a grinder. I use a little 4" angle grinder for all kinds of fun tasks. I would also use some panal adhisive to glue it down. If this doesn't seem doable, repost & we'll figure a different way.good luck,gb

1. 
   Frank_"Mad_Dog"_Maglin | Mar 02, 2001 04:42am | #3

   *Laura,Perhaps you could use a taper jig (either made or bought) on a table saw to make the tapered cut. If not,I'd go with a power plane, making light passes and checking the fit as you proceed.

1. 
   mark_holbrook | Mar 02, 2001 04:45am | #4

   *You could use a belt sander with very coarse grit to remove the excess wood.

1. 
   Laura_Burns | Mar 02, 2001 10:49pm | #5

   *Thanks for your suggestions. In speaking of the taper, are you referring to sloping the top surface of the threshold to "ramp up" from the lower floor to the higher floor, so as not to create a toe stubber? I hadn't started to worry about that yet, I'm still trying to figure out how transfer the profile of the two floors to the threshold blank without doing it entirely by trial and error -- if it fits tightly between the two jambs (and I hope I'm capable of that), I don't want to have to fit it a million times. My estimate of the floor height differences is just an estimate -- how can I accurately transfer the profile of the floor(s) to the blank? This is probably a dumb question. Using a piece of scrap, shorter than the distance between the jambs is a good idea, but still would require many trips up and down the stairs... I guess I just have to use a framing square or some straight edge to transfer the height of the higher floor in regular intervals to the piece of scrap... and then when I'm happy with the fit, measure the carved-out place's dimension and transfer to the real thing. does that sound right?

2. 
   Dennis_Loeffler | Mar 02, 2001 11:29pm | #6

   *Take a piece of wood longer than the door is wide and clamp it level to the outside of the door frame. Take a compass and scribe the template to the floor. If the floor slopes thru the door, do the same thing on each door frame. Transfer these to the fir, assuming the top to be level. Trim accordingly, stain and finish to taste, and install.Dennis

3. 
   Tony_Ferrito | Mar 03, 2001 12:13am | #7

   *Laura, First, I would remove the door stops so you don't have to notch around them. Assuming that your door swings into the bath and your walls are 2x4 or something about that thickness, this should give you about a 3" width for your threshold. Cut the stock to length so it will just slide into place but not to loose as to leave gaps at the ends. push it into place until it butts against the new floor. Make sure it is tight to the old floor, you may have to kneel on it if it needs to be bent to conform. Then you can simply run your pencil along the top of the new floor to trace your "rabbet". Cutting rabbet that varies in depth can be fun:) I usually set the table-saw to the minimum dimension and then use a rabbet plane to get the rest. Don't make your rabbet too wide so as not to weaken the thinner edge. Next I usually just use my block plane to bevel the top to a shape that looks good. A sharp block plane will remove alot of material without to much effort. If there are any spot were the grain lifts just take it down the last little bit with a sanding block. Don't be afraid to spend a little extra time, this is not basic carpentry by any means. You have a special piece of wood there and a tricky fit, don't try and be a hero with the first cut. It will be well worth a few extra trips up the stairs to have a job well done. Be sure to invite some carpenters over and make sure they get to see your little masterpiece. I always notice the workmanship, or workwomanship, when I'm in the bathroom. Good Luck and Happy Planing Tony Ferrito

4. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Mar 03, 2001 12:48am | #8

   *I'm seeing this different. I see a little step up into the bath. 1/2 inch on side....3/4 on the other. The bath floor is level. the outter floor is sloped. So, the new threshold should sit level. Simple...measure the highest point of the slope. Let's use 3/4 inch. Rabbit the threshold 3/4 deep, almost the whole width, but leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch full thickness....as in don't rabbit away the 3/4 there. This is your outside edge. This is also your scribe strip. Set it in the doorway, touching on the high point, make it level, and it will be sitting up at one end 1/4 inch in the air. The goal....make that end sit flush. Run a carpenters pencil, on edge, down against the floor. You have just marked a taper. This is also the line you have to cut up to, the material needed to be removed.....to make the whole thing drop down in place, and fit tight along the floor. Belt sand, block plane down to the line. Leave the line for an adjustable final fit. The key is leaving a thin enough scribe strip. That way, you aren't fighting to remove the whole thickness of the piece. The final piece, will look like a "L" shape, where the long arm lies flat, under the door....and the little are covers the part that you'll stub yer toe on in the dark! Jeff

5. 
   Dean_Hinazumi | Mar 07, 2001 10:31am | #9

   *i may not be picturing this right but can't you cut the bottom of the door?

6. 
   Bucksnort_Billy | Mar 08, 2001 09:23pm | #10

   *Laura, this may be over simplifying, but, if the new flooring is cut cleanly across the door opening, or running parallel to it, you could use a reducer instead of a thresh, and avoid most of the toe stubbing. Let it run above the new bath floor and sand it flush when you finish the floor.

7. 
   pcraig2 | Mar 12, 2001 09:29pm | #11

   *fit the timber as you have done inbetween the jambs fit level.measure the distance from the largest gap (say the gap runs from 3/4" to 1/2")then you cut a scap piece of timber 3/4" only needs to be short end,run this along your threshold both sides and that is the profile of the floor transfered to it.plane axe chisel grind or whatever till you have the surplus timber removed,but remove a little extra from the middle glue and screw and yaki dar thats it

2. 
   Laura_Burns | Mar 12, 2001 09:29pm | #12

   *
   Hi,
   I've leveled and reinforced the bathroom floor joists and laid a new floor of 3/4" salvaged fir in the bathroom of my 1911 cottage. Now (doh!), the bathroom floor is higher (with a difference of 1/2" increasing to 3/4") than the floor outside the bathroom (which is not level). Problem is, I don't really have a clue how to proceed -- I have a lovely piece of specially ordered vertical grain 5/4" fir stock to make the new threshold out of, and I don't want to mess up! I can scribe the fit between the door jamb, but how do I determine the correct profile "underneath" so that it fits nicely, is well-supported, and also spans the different floor heights and slopes gracefully? Any tips would be most appreciated. Photo's are possible if this explanation is not clear.