HAven’t seen this one asked. Our walk-in shower tile job is about 2 yrs old. The wall tiles wrap the entrance from sill to ceiling. Has a glass frameless door, hence no framework on any of the surfaces. The grout has cracked open on both sides of the opening. Tiles aren’t loose, but there is a very narrow crack that must be letting some water in. Grout line is standard thickness, defined by tiles & their built in spacers.
How to repair? Dig out existing grout & replace w/ more unsanded grout? Dig out grout & replace w/ some variety of caulk/sealer?
Need help fast – wife comments on it every night. That means I gotta get my butt in gear & fix it.
Thanks.
Don
Replies
Well, Don, if you're on Breaktime at 11:59 on New Year's Eve, I'd say you have more problems than cracked tile grout!
I'd try using a carbide scraper (A scoring tool used for cutting cement backer board that would be good for this) to clean out the cracked grout and re-grout those joints and see how it holds up. Maybe the cracking was caused by initial shrinking of the framing that has now stopped.
Since it's on both sides of the opening, I'm guessing the cracks aren't caused by the door unless it gets slammed. You might check to see it the door is loose where it's screwed through the tile and, if so, try longer screws.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Al: Problem is not on the hinge side - on side where door never touches. Door swings in and out. Don't think it's a problem w/ framing shrinking - framing was up for about three yrs before tiled. But... tile setter put concrete board on framing to bond tile to.I guess my real question is new grout vs a caulk (like silicone) considering that the crack is so skinny.I left wife alone w/ TV set watching Alysin Camerata (Who was supposed to have a baby on 31 Dec) & Steve Doocey do the Times Square bit at about ten min till midnight. She wanted to watch the million dollar crystal ball drop. She fell asleep!!! Missed the whole event. I wandered in about ten minutes after midnight & found her snoring! She didn't even know she had missed it.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
I usually prefer caulk where dissimilar materials meet like the joint between the tile and tub or shower base. At eye level around the shower entry, I think grout would look better..unless it cracks again.
Al
DonNudge!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
I'll avoid commenting on your home life and address the question. You can dig out the grout and regrout, or dig it out and install a good grade of bathtub caulk. The caulk route is less likely to re-crack, but you may not be able to match the grout color exactly, and you somewhat increase your mildew staining problems.
I wonder if they waterproofed behind the cement backerboard when they tiled the shower? Water can cause the framing members to shift, or it could just be the typical movements that you get with a wood frame. Grout is NOT waterproof, unless it is epoxy grout.
The fix won't take long, but it's hard to say if it will be temporary or permanent. Cut the grout out with a grout saw. They are inexpensive and can be found in tile departments and hardware stores. Then fill the gap with caulk. If you know the color of the grout, you can get a matching caulk from a tile store or tile department in a big box store. They make caulk to match both sanded and unsanded grouts (yours is probably unsanded because the gaps are small and it is on a shower wall). The caulk is usually water based with a silcone additive.
If the movement in the joint is small, then this will fix the problem. If you have a lot of movement then the fix will be temporary.
Good luck!
Billy