I need to fix cracked veneer on a set of exterior church doors. These doors are very heavy and have decorative windows.
These doors are old and the church would like to save them. My question is, and may be better posted at Fine Woodworking, how to fix the veneer? My first impression is that simply putting glue in the cracks end clamping is not the right way to fix these. What I think need to happen is that the veneer must be replaced. What I don’t know is how to get the old veneer off. Also, even if I do get it off, I don’t have access to a vacuum clamp, so is there another way to adhere new veneer?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The FHB Podcast crew takes a closer look at an interesting roof.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
are the doors stained and varnished or painted ?
how large is the affected area ?
carpenter in transition
They are painted. The also face east with no shade for a good part of the mornings. The church is, more than likely, going to keep the same color on the door, a sort of dark dusty rose.
sorry, missed the last part of the question. The cracks are scattered across the doors. While the majority of each door is OK, the scattered nature worries me a bit.
the worse it is, the easier to fix. Usually this type of thing starts nearest the bottom, where the door gets the least protection from the elements. If possible, simply strip the top layer (skin) off the door -BTW remove door and use sawhorses- and sand down until you get to a sound and smooth substrate. You can then glue a new skin (they sell them at better lumber yards) to the top. Vacuum press is not needed, I've done veneering with Titebond II (make sure it's "II"-for exterior). roll the glue evenly onto both surfaces, and LET DRY. Then position the skin on the door and use an electric iron to slowly re heat the glue through the skin. Be thorough, and keep moving so it doesn't burn the wood. When you're done, trim carefully, then use a good quality primer and paint to seal the deal (don't forget top and bottom edges). This technique works best with thinner veneers. Good luck! p.s. dark paint doesn't fare as well as light colors on exterior trim - gets too hot in the sun. If you're staining, finish with a good UV resistant varnish.
Saul,
Thanks. I like the idea of using the Titebond - I think I read that the newer TiteBond III may be a better exterior glue, something to look into - and an iron. I never thought of this, basically creating your own iron on veneer. This is much better than a contact cement solution as I can position before adhering.As to the color choice, I told the trustee that a lighter color would be better, but he doesn't think they will change it.
I would try this method first. You can always resort to the reveneering method.Cracked veneer is okay and can stay. Any veneer that has peeled away or curled at its edges needs to be cut out. Take a utitity knife with a new blade and cut out the curls about a 1/4" back. Chisel off the veneer. Then fill the craters and cracks with Bondo. Be sure to press it against the crater and crack edges for a tight bond. Sand and paint.You may need a second application of Bondo. I prefer to do it in two layers so there is less to sand off when done. You WILL need a random orbit sander to sand the Bondo. Sanding by hand is futile. Don't even think about a belt sander.BTW - If you do decide to do the iron-on glue method, pay special attention not to cook the glue from over zealous ironing. This will make the glue worthless. When you apply the glue to the veneer, the glue will cause ther veneer to curl when drying. Major PITA. One way to limit this is to oversize the veneer patch and tape it down on all four sides to some sort of substate until dry. Prime door with an alkyd primer.F