I work alone, so I can’t really open up a roof and risk rain, and I hate tarps. Here’s my technique.
Build the rake walls directly on the shingles; center the toe plate under a rafter; screw thru it with 6″ Truss Screws. Build a cripple wall inside to support those rafters. Blackjack the seam for a couple of days waterproofing. Get roof deck up top done.
Then, run circ. saw up and down to cut through shingles 1-1/2″ off the rake wall. Cut at the wall with a hook blade; remove strips of shingles.
Starting at the bottom, slide in pre-bent flashing under two shingle thicknesses; tack to wall. Finish by roof nails through roof part of flashing, and caulk under shingles.
Trim and side (this is the other side); hold up the rake trim 1-1/2″.
Forrest
Edited 12/18/2006 5:50 pm by McDesign
Edited 12/18/2006 5:50 pm by McDesign
Edited 12/18/2006 5:50 pm by McDesign
Edited 12/18/2006 5:53 pm by McDesign
Replies
not bad technique, but why so much exposed metal on the roof?
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I dunno - I just like to keep the valley clear so it won't catch small sticks and leaves.
Forrest
seems like it works fine..
one comment.. your flashings look like mill finish aluminum...
they would look so much better in a painted coil stock.. in a complimentary color ... like brown .. or black
we use a lot of black.. it looks more like "shadow" than flashingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
>>>>>>>>>>>they would look so much better in a painted coil stock.. in a complimentary color ... like brown .. or blackor copper........... or as Piffen's saying - why do we see them at all?Otherwise, nice job, Forrest.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Halelujah, everybody say cheese
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<why do we see them at all?>
Edumicate me here - would ya'll run the shingles and the rake trim both tight in the corner?
Forrest - gappy
>>>>would ya'll run the shingles and the rake trim both tight in the corner?I don't exactly understand that question. However, your theory of keeping the "valley" wide to keep twigs from collecting conflicts with my theory of not giving them a place to collect at all. More than one way to skin a cat, etc.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Halelujah, everybody say cheese
Merry Christmas from the family
Thanks for the info
Forrest
Generally, when I stepflash, I leave a quarter inch gap from shingle end. Not sure what you mean about "two shingle thicknesses" I've never seen it done other than under the exposed bottom of the shingle. Not knocking your work, but I wouldn't be too keen on that much metal showing. If that's typical 5x7 flashing bent half and half, there's not much flashing extending under the shingle, either. What you call a "rake trim" I don't use,( although I have cut a piece like yours in on repair jobs that needed new flashing but not new siding.) Rake trim 'round here is the piece that runs up the outside of a gable end.
We just lay a piece of clap on the roof against the wall, and fit the siding to it. prime the bottoms and clip off the point so water doesnt catch it and run across....works for us. remove clap laying on roof, and siding is a consistent quarter inch off roof. Paiter likes it too, just slide the clap back under to keep paint off shingles.
Why not do it your way and cut the shingles before ya frame your walls? Then you won't leave so much metal showing. Make it easier to frame your dormer, too, without snapping lines and nailing plates down to shingles. Or just by a durn forklift like DP and build it on the ground!
My .02 (Liked your thread on the portico, by the way)
Bing
Thanks for the info
Forrest
forrest.. the flashings on the roof shingles would be under the roof shingles, and out of site.. the roof shingles would go hard to the dormer ( not "tight" )
the rake trim would stand off the roof shingles by 3/4" ( we'd use a 1x3 as a temporary spacer )
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks for the info
Forrest
Yes, it is not a valley, it is a side wall flashing, and will not hold debris.
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Here in my part of Oregon (Coast range) I like to raise the siding at least 3/4" off the shingles and keep the shingles at least 1/2" off the sidewall. Anything less and it seems moss will grow and create a dam , then needles collect , then leaves , then the rot and leaks start.
Course if I don't start my truck once a day moss grows on it as well. ;-)
I raise the siding 3/4" to an ich above the shingles. It is the metal on the roof side I cover completely with shingle.
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I agree - but remember, this dormer will wind up completely in an attic next year, after the further additions. I usually use the dark brown stuff, but had this from somewhere.
I'd love to use just copper, like some of you guys . . .
Forrest
Perfect!
Ain't no water getting in there... and THAT is the important element.
You're one of the 4 people in the South who can read, understand AND implement the directions on the shingle package.
Congratulations and thank you for giving me an understanding of how you frame over the shingles.
Troy Sprout
Socialism in general has a record of failure so blatant that only an intellectual could ignore or evade it."
-- Thomas Sowell
I'm sure my eyes are fooling me, but when I look at this pic:View ImageI don't see the typical "steps" of the flashing on the wall. I just see one continuous line of metal flashing.Did you use some technique I'm not familiar with or are my eyes just bad?
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
It is step flashed, with 8x8" pieces bent in half. Like I said earlier, I like to put the flashing under two thicknesses of shingle, so it doesn't show through any tab slots that might be close to the cut line.
This also makes it lay down crisper, plus I like to push it down tightly.
Forrest - gettin' back up on that roof
Optical delusion.Now lets ask him how much that OSHA standard chicken ladder is approved to handle - 23# or 35#?LOL
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