This is my first post and I look forward to your comments!
We recently were updating the patio of our house and we decided to install a masonry rock fascade on the whole back 1 story high of our 2 story house. We are also building a pergola and 2″ X 12″ cedar boards will rest on the 6.5″ rock fascade. They rested the rock on angle iron bolted into the foundation and built the wall to the height where the 2 sheets of masonite siding meet.
The house has a typical masonite bat and board type siding. The rock is about 6.5 ” think. We removed the 1″ X 2″ horizonal boards where the two pieces of masonry siding met between the 1st and 2nd story. The house also has these same vertical boards between the the 4′ X 8′ sheets of masonry siding.
My question is what type of flashing should I install and how to install to make for a watertight seal? The siding on our house is not completely flat. There is a a recessed 1″ ridge in the siding about every 12″. We would like to install copper because it would match very well with the stone.
One consideration I had was to have copper flashing made 6.5″ wide to cover the rock with a 1″ drip bendover (over the rock) X 6″ high with 1/2″bend at the top to be recessed back into the siding. I would cut a horizontal line in the siding the length of the house and attach the flashing into the cut and seal with caulk and then place another 1″ X 2″ over the area caulked on top. I have been told I need to have a seal or water will run down between the rock and the siding and eventually rot our wall out? To further help with water protection, should I cover the area between the rock and siding under the flashing with a 1″ band of tar or roof compound?
Is this adequate or are there other ideas? I also read I should use copper nails.
Thanks for your help!
Replies
It might be more waterproof if you could get the back flange of the copper behind the siding instead of cutting a reglrt and counterflashing.
Yes use copper nails so there is no galvanic reaction with dissimilar metals.
You should solder all your seams where your sheets lap.
Forget the tar - that is a bandaid for failed jobs when not done right.
To do it right, you need to get the flashing BEHIND the siding, which probably means taking it off, installing the flashing, and then repplacing the siding. With clapboards, this can be fairly simple, but with full 8' sheets, you have a trick there. Removing it could destroy masonite panels.
One option I have used succesfully with sheds and barns where water penetration is not as serious a problem as homes, and where siding removal is impossible, is to install the flashing with the up leg seated in some excellent caulk, like Sascho or Geocell, then run a 1x4 over it, with the top edge beveled to shed water away. The upper edge of the 1x4 is also seated in caulk, and then a bead of caulk run along the joint. Tripole redundancy has seemed to work for as long as ten years, but the very fact that you have a trap lap facing up means that you are totally dependent on the caulk and the bond it gets on the existing siding. Someday, it will fail.
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