I need some help in understanding how to flash where a new shed roof meets an end wall on my home. The end wall is cedar clapboard and the shed roof is cedar shake. The shed roof is about 18’ in length and contacts the end wall at about a 45 degree angle.
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I thought that I would be able to buy a couple of end wall flashing sections and although I have seen them offered over the intranet to buy I have not had any luck in finding anything similar in either my local lumber yards or in the big box supply chains.
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My questions are:
· Is the best solution for me to make my own sections using a roll of flashing and bending it myself. If so, will I only need to make the one angle bend in the middle and make that at roughly a 45 degree angle? (should I make a second bend at the lower lip that I have seen on some web based offerings)?
· I know the flashing which will go under the housewrap and clapboard on the end wall and am assuming, but this may incorrect, it will go over and on top of the last course of shingles on the shed roof, is this correct? If so, how far will the flashing have to extend down over the top course of shingles (3â€, 4â€, 5â€?)
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This is a fairly visible section of the house and I would prefer to have as little of the flashing showing as possible so if there is another flashing method that would minimize the flashing that is visible please let me know
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If I have been unclear on any point please just ask and I will try to explain my question better.
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Thank you for taking your time in offering any help and advice you may have, I appreciate it.
Replies
Is the best solution for me to make my own sections using a roll of flashing and bending it myself.
That's one solution. Another would be to get a sheet metal shop or a roofer with a brake to bend it for you. Might cost a little more per foot, but they'll just sell you what you need, rather than you having to buy a full roll of what ever you're using. I'd suggest using copper, lead coated copper or at very least .032 aluminum.
should I make a second bend at the lower lip
we call that a "kick" and it makes the flashing stronger and lets it lay better and straighter.
how far will the flashing have to extend down over the top course of shingles
I usually make my "aprons" so their roof side flange is equal to whatever the reveal of the roofing material is. In other words, if you're laying your cedar shingles with a 5" reveal, use a 5" apron.
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"he ot the placed closed down whyyy thhhattt nnooo gooodddd" - sancho
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"he ot the placed closed down whyyy thhhattt nnooo gooodddd" - sancho
Grant, do you make your kick with a crush-back fold-under? (Not sure if that's the right terminology in English. My tin guy just calls it 'un crush', LOL.)
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
do you make your kick with a crush-back fold-under?
Is that anything like a "reach around"?
Seriously, I call it a "hem" when the sharp edge is folded under and smashed flat.
To answer your question, usually not on aprons (although I have), but I hem a lot of pieces. I often use the hem operation if my rip cut is not true to straighten up the cut edge.
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"he ot the placed closed down whyyy thhhattt nnooo gooodddd" - sancho
Thanks for the English lesson, LOL. Now I gotta figure out what a 'reach-around' might be in French. Just in case I ever need to know....
My local tinsmith routinely finishes aprons with a ¼" hem and then gives the doubled edge a 15-20º kick downwards. It does make a neat looking finish.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....