Okay, I know I am supposed to use rubber roofing on a flat (or low pitched roof). However, can I use something like bitumen and then regular asphalt shingles? The house will be torn down within the next 3-5 years and I do NOT want to spend any $$ on this place. So I thought this might get me by. The roof is approximately 200 sq ft and currently is leaking. It has some rolled roof stuff on it.
Lastly, I am getting the asphalt shingles free, so I thought it might be worth while! Not ashamed to say I am a cheapskate…. 🙂
Joe Joyce Boston, MA
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If it's below a 2/12 it will probably leak worse with shingles.
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
probably?(he said with one eyebrow raised and a silly grin)
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Well, I guess it will only leak when it rains.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
shoot!
A roof like that could store enough water to keep leaking for a week after it rains
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Hope you don't take it personal.
for a couple few years, just the I&W over what you have is better than nailing shingles on even if they are free.
There is a product that goes on just like the I&W, but has a mineral surface like roll roofing. The name brand I am familiar with is Polyglas.
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"just the I&W over what you have is better" - What does 'I&W' mean?
Ice and water shield. Grace or it's equivalent.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Since I haven't done a roof before, I have some basic questions:
The I and W - is this an underlayment and something goes on top?
I guess what I am looking to do is strip the old rolled roofing off and replace it with something straight forward and inexpensive (meaning $200-300 at most), but don't what exists out there.
THanks for you help - Joe
Tear off the existing material. Install I&WS (which is a peel and stick underlayment) and then cover it with 30lb felt. UV rays will break down the I&WS if it's not covered. Plastic cap nails and all will run you a little over $100 for 2 sq. Won't be pretty, but I guess what's there now isn't either.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I think I'll try it. Anything will look better than what is on the roof now: a blue 20' x 30' painters tarp held down by nails and rocks!
Ice and water shield - peel'n'stick membrane. Normally not for exposure to the UV of the sum for more than 90 days, but i've seen it last a couple years, and this sounds like a disposable unit.
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A slam bam thank you mam flat roof isn't that much.
Termination bar right to the siding then trim the excess below the bar. Maybe a few plates in the center and glue the edges.
Menards sells a 10 by maybe 25 roll of EPDM for something like 70 bucks. Don't glue it--you can take it with you when you leave!
It's liable to move before he does unless it's secured somehow.
surely there are flashings and penetrations to deal with.I'm amazed they could sell EPDM that cheap! If I could find that, I'd have a bunch fore for tool covers overnight tarps on jobs
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There's a Menards 30 or so miles away. Still haven't gone there, but I hear they have some good prices. They don't have an internet presence like Lowes and HD do, so I have only seen the sales flyers, which are always misleading.
I'm amazed they could sell EPDM that cheap!
Probably .045. On my typical EPDM or TPO job, the accessories costs way more than the actual membrane.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
If it's installed w/o glue be prepared to go looking for it.
Well of course he'd have to fasten it. He could just fold it over the fascia run a termination bar around. It ain't going nowhere! Point is he could just unscrew the termination bar when he's done and have a very bombproof tarp in the deal.
My point is you've never seen them take off when no glue is used?
It doesn't take much to get that puppy up into the wind.