*
I own two docks and each are constructed differently.
One has the foam billets that you mention. These are attached to the dock by running threaded rod through the dock’s framing members, then through the foam and then through a backer sandwiching the foam between the dock and the backer. The backer can be a treated one-by (preferred) or through large galvanized washers. The 1x’s provide more support and less chance for tear-out.
It is also a good idea to extend some kind of brackets along the outside edges of your dock, be they steel (welded on) or wood (bolted on). These prevent your foam from slipping out from under your dock during rough water conditions.
My other dock utilizes “floatation tubs”. These are foam filled, plastic tubs, which are anchored using a “J” type bolt and washer which fits through slots that are molded into the tubs. It is best to weld the “J” bolts to your dock’s frames to keep them from loosening over time and falling off. These tubs are expensive though!!!
I hope this helps and good luck.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
I own two docks and each are constructed differently.
One has the foam billets that you mention. These are attached to the dock by running threaded rod through the dock's framing members, then through the foam and then through a backer sandwiching the foam between the dock and the backer. The backer can be a treated one-by (preferred) or through large galvanized washers. The 1x's provide more support and less chance for tear-out.
It is also a good idea to extend some kind of brackets along the outside edges of your dock, be they steel (welded on) or wood (bolted on). These prevent your foam from slipping out from under your dock during rough water conditions.
My other dock utilizes "floatation tubs". These are foam filled, plastic tubs, which are anchored using a "J" type bolt and washer which fits through slots that are molded into the tubs. It is best to weld the "J" bolts to your dock's frames to keep them from loosening over time and falling off. These tubs are expensive though!!!
I hope this helps and good luck.
*
Careful!!! check local regulations. On my lake and many others you are no longer permitted to use EPS that is not encased. (there has been problems with the EPS busting up and it does make a mess when that happpens.) Granted, it is usually a result of faulty application or construction. Your best bet is to encase the foam in some kind of tub or encloseure. That will achieve two objectives. 1 prevent breakup and 2 provide a solid method of attachment.
*
Check with a marine supply. Just last weekend I was visiting with family on the Niagara River. The neighbor was building something and the curiosity killed me, so I strolled over. He built a typical P.T. deck frame, and on the under side he attached four PVC cans that resembled automotive gas tanks. They were fastened to the deck the same way a car's gas tank is, with stainless straps. He said that he ordered them through a marine supplier. Good luck.
*
I need to rebuild an existing dock so it will float. The usual floatation material around here (N.E. PA.) is 10" X 20" X 96" EPS billets. Any ideas for attaching billets to framing and connecting floating sections together?
Jerry
*
An environmentally friendly and relatively solution is to use empty plastic fuel drums. If you buy them either new or cleaned they pose no danger from previous use. They float very well. They can be tied together with any kind of framing you desire and they come out of the water well if you choose to remove them for the winter. Use 55 gal or 15 gal sizes depending on your load requirements.