I was wondering if anyone is familiar with these shelves that I’ve seen lately in design articles etc. where the shelf appears to float on the wall. I’ve seen these at the box stores and they appear to be like a torsion box or something that must have some sort of slit in the back that slides over a piece of angle that is attached to the wall. I guess it could also be some sort of french cleat that is recessed into the back of the box, such that attachment to the wall is strong yet totally hidden without the traditional brackets that most wall shelves have.
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That's exactly what they are.
I've seen the wall attachment be a simple piece of stock lumber lagged to the studs, or even a piece of metal pipe extending out from the studs, with the pipe welded to a bracket that is lagged to the studs.
The shelf slides over ether the wood cleat or the steel.
Thanks for the reply. So is the back of the shelf open. When you slide it over the cleat how do you then attach it, or do you simply rely on the downward pressure holding it against the wall.
For permanent, glue on the cleat, then slide the shelf over the cleat and screw through the top skin into the cleat to secure the shelf. If stain-grade and you don't want screws, or don't have the depth in the top skin to plug the screw head holes, then you can just use glue.
For removeable, you could omit the glue.
The snugger the fit between the shelf and the cleat (think similar to a nicely made mortise and tenon), the better the performance of the shelf...less sag.
In regards to planning and design, be smart with the screws in terms of how close they are to the rear edge of the top skin in relation to the thickness of the top skin. Think in terms of the downward forces on the shelf trying to "rotate" the shelf off the cleat, and splitting the top skin at the screws.
Hafele makes hardware specifically for this, for use with regular lumber. Doesn't require torsion box. I wanted to use it, but couldn't find a good way to drill the slots they wanted, so came up with another way that uses double lag.
Cloud how deep is the snow? About 4" in Old Fort, 1420msl.
edit, 6" at 10"17
Hijack over
Edited 2/26/2004 10:17:38 PM ET by RASCONC
Edited 2/26/2004 10:18:39 PM ET by RASCONC
I made some for my daughter and daughter-in-law. I made a frame out of 1x2 furring strips, rimmed three sides with some chair-rail moulding and skinned the top and bottom with 1/4 luan. I made the top removable (six small screws to secure) and used lag bolts (overkill) to screw into studs. I stained them and varnished them. Daughter loves them, DIL hasn't put them up after two years.
If I understand, you left the top skin off, lagged it to the wall and then applied the top skin with the small screws?
Yes, I used brass countersunk screws but they are not visable unless you are on a ladder or taller than my 6'5" SIL. If you are going to place the shelves low the screws could be an issue for you but I find well placed brass screws to not be obtrusive. One could use some pinch rollers or other hidden fasteners for the top but you lose some of the strength of the torsion box.
The ones at the big box stores (Spur is a brand name that leaps to mind), us a laid over "J" channel. The channel fits the stock melamine shelves (usually on the same aisle). You definitely have to install the screws up fro mthe bottom (longer) leg of the channel. The weight limitations on the packages actually seem a tad optimistic.
Not a bad effect, especially with a nearrower shelf, 6 or 8" wide--to keep heavier things off them.
For books, though, I'd want a lot more sturdiness, and a very positive mechanical fastening to the wall.
Thanks to everyone for their input. I broke out the sketch pad and came up with this. Responses encouraged. 2" wide(thick in front view) end - mitered front and sides for seamless appearance around the perimeter. I think the thick look, "floating" looks good. For the back of the frame set what is essentially a rail in vertical rabbets run in the side pieces which will be glued and screwed w/ counterbores followed by plugs. Run a rabbet around the entire interior perimeter of the bottom to recess a piece of 14" ply flush with the botttom edge of the frame. Counterbored holes at 16" OC for the back rail for lag attachment to the studs. Rabbet the interior perimeter of the top of the frame as well. Once attached to wall drop 1/4" ply into recess for shelf surface. Questions.... What thickness of stock to use for the frame? I'm thinking 1/2". How wide a shelf can I go with until the forces of what is essentially a cantilever become too much?