Floor Reinforcement with Joist Hangers
Working on a 100 year old foursquare style house. First floor is sagging around and toward the basement stairwell due to its placement perpendicular to the floor joists (about the center of the span). Would like to reinforce and add additional support to the area around the stairwell. Was thinking that joist hangers could help to tie the joists surrounding the stairwell together, then I could resupport using a couple of columns in the basement.
My questions:
Has anyone faced a similar situation and have any general learnings to share? Joists measure about 3″ by 8″ so I was thinking a hanger made for a double 2×8 might work. Side to side fit is a little loose (1/4″ or so). What is the best way to secure the hangers into 100 year old joists? Are there any hangers specifically designed for old lumber sizes? Any insights would be appreciated.
Replies
If you are just looking to tie the joists together, then something like this might be easier:
http://doityourself.com/store/8817801.htm
Thanks. Not really sure how this is used. Is this for crossbracing between floor joists?
Yes it is cross bracing. You put two in each joist bay. You drive the spikes in about 1 inch from the top of the joist & then nail the bottom end in about an inch from the bottom of the adjacent joist. Then you put the other one angling the other way.
Maybe I misunderstood what you are asking...
Sounds like the situation in my house. The problem was that the basement stairs were put in with no double headers... So, everything in the house sagged in that direction.I ended up doing the following this spring.1. I put in footings for new metal jackposts which will be left in place.2. I ran a beam parallel with the stairs and jacked the joists up on the beam.3. I cut out the existing piece of wood running parallel to the stairs and capping the cut ends of the floor joists and replaced it with a doubled header.4. Doubled up the joists which run along the top and the bottom of the stairs between my new beam and the foundation wall. The doubled pieces need to sit on the foundation wall too.Now the floor is rock solid and more level in that area. (one day I can fix up the original masonry columns and the main beam in the house, that can wait). The stairs between the main floor and the second floor don't creak anymore either.If my house wasn't a 100 years old... there would go a really fine hobby.
Thanks DgH. It sounds like you had a very similar situation. I think I am missing double headers as well. There is just one approx 3" x 8" beam capping the ends of the joists surrounding the stairwell. Could you give me a little more info on the construction of the double header? I also realize I neglected to mention another important item. I do, in the future plan to close up this stairwell to accomidate a fridgeon the first floor (build it into the wall). I guess all the more reason to sure things up. But this probably opens up different solutions that I have not thought of including removing the stairwell frame and adding new joists sistering the cut joists of the stairwell. A complicating factor in this approach is that the only one side of the stairwell is framed perpendicular to the stairwell, while framing on the other side is parallel. Removing this paralel framing would probably create more problems than it solved as the first to second floor stairwell is supported (not so well) by this section of framing. Also appreciate the insight that fixing this issue might clear up my squeak 1st to 2nd floor stairs!
$impson $trong-Tie will cu$tom make mo$t any hanger you desire.
If you need wider hangers, check with a place that sells I-joists and LVLs. They should stock hangers that are wider than the typical 1 9/16" one you buy at a lumberyard.
Just make sure you tell 'em you need a face mount hanger, not a top flange one.