Has anyone ever tried one of those “new” floor sanders that appear to have a number of sanding disks (looks like a bunch of random orbital sanders) on the bottom of the unit. I read about them a couple of years back, but haven’t seen one around. They were writtren up to be virtually goof proof, ie no threat of dwell marks like w/a drum sander.
Anyone have some input, or does everyone still use the age old drum sander? I’ve done a variety of construction projects, but I’ve always left the sanding to the pros. Am I being too tentative about giving it a go?
Thanks.
Replies
I've read about them too - several random orbit discs on one machine. When I put in my floor, I tried to find one to rent but nobody knew where one was available. This is in the Seattle area.
I too am in the Seattle area, and I use it for refinishing my fir floor. It's plus is that it's less agressive (by far) than the drum type, and it's down side is that it's less agressive than the drum type...
In short, I'd use it again for refinishing, but probably not for new - at least not for the first pass.
http://www.u-sand.com/rentals.htm Funny, their site was better at listing the actuall rental houses - I found it recently at a True Value.
Phat
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Thanks for the web address. I'll give one of those puppies a try next section I put down.
in southern Puget Sound WA region HomeDepot rents them
don't know if it has as many as six heads though - 4 maybe
Holy moly, I just read in the "Wht use usand?" section of that website you can resand veneered floors with that thing. THAT sounds stressful.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I also recall seeing an article not long ago -- must be the same one FastEddie is referring to. From what I recall, the author suggested orienting the machine on a diagonal from its line of travel to avoid a missed "stripe" on the floor between the sets of disks on the machine as it moves forward.
The article must have been in either FHB or JLC -- would probably be worth the OP's while to dig it up.
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I used that diagonal technique you're talking about- diagonal one way, then the other, then parallel to the boards until the floor is nice and level, and then do the fine sanding all parallel to the boards. It's real important to keep a steady, smooth pace (I put the heel of one foot touching the toe of the last) and no pick-ups mid floor. when you do lift the machine, lift it gradually over about 5 feet. set it down the same way. no big deal.zak
section of that website you can resand veneered floors with that thing.
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My floor sanding guys tried it on my pine floors thinking that might be the ticket to such soft floors. It takes so little off and takes like forever to do a decent sized room. It was still much faster and just as good to use the drum sander and then go over it with a with the ROS.
I have a janitorial supply house right near me where all the floor finishing guys go to get their poly and sandpaper. they also rent out one sander to HO's. I rented it from them to do my stairs and hall floors a cpl of weeks back. It looks like a regular drum sander. Maybe a hair smaller. It has a smaller expandable drum. When you slip the paper over the drum and turn it on the drum expands holding the paper tight. It also has a lever on the handle that raises and lowers the drum. That thing is "almost" idiot proof!I was only an idiot in a cpl of spots...Probably because I wasn't paying as close attention as I should have seeing how easy it was working. Much faster than those floor massagers but a little slower than your regular dum sander.If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
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In the Seattle area McLendon Hardware has them available for rental in their paint dept. A great locally owned hardware store chain with a 6 or 7 stores; White Center, Renton, Woodenville, Kent, Puyallup, Summner <http://mclendons.com/>. Great staff, good inventory including a variety of hard to find items. 10% discount cash accounts available for anybody with a UBI, do not have to be a contractor.
I seem to remember a short article ... maybe it was a tool review ... about 2 yrs ago, written by Andy Engle, about him doing a floor in his house, and he used one of those. I think he said it took longer but did a nice job, and like you said there was less chance of divots.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I've done 4 rooms (800sf) with a USand. Floors were level and finish was light so there was only about 1/8" to take off, but it worked perfect. They are exactly what you said - easy to use, and time consuming. Being inexperienced, I was happy to put in the extra time in exchange for the goof protection.
Check your local HD, you can rent them by the hour or day. They work good for just taking the existing finish down to bare wood. If you want to even boards out or take offf more than an 1/8", use a drum sander (also available at HD).
They are also pretty damn heavy so if you're doing an upstairs room, get psyched up.
DCS Inc.
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Saw it advertised at Menards on the Varathane finish brochure. Never used one but love the varathane. The solvent based floor finish levels like glass. (sorry Californians Idon't know about the water based stuff)
I tried, as a novice 17 years ago, the drum sander. Man save that for a basketball court. Corners and ends of runs are a nightmare. although it removes stock like nothing else. Never again for me. Running that tool is an art in itself.
HD rents the big vibrating pad sanders. They have the sanding sheets & pads to match. It is moron proof unless you chat on the cell phone while you sand. I let my 17 year old run it and he did fine. They are pretty fast and it comes up to an edge real well. The last 1/4 inch is not perfect but better than the standup belt sander which leaves a couple inches. Painless and effective. I've final finished about 1200 sq foot so far and it is my choice.
I took if from subloor leveling to all stages of sanding my Jatobia (Brazilian Cherry) which is 2x harder than white oak. You need to manage the paper to get it to work. Ever use 17 grit before? Wow you can even keep that on a constant grind without much effort. I went from there to 60 to 80 and stopped. at that point the Jatobia wasn't giving up much dust and the finish was certainly smooth enough for the polyurethane flood. Looks astounding and is bulletproof.
Edited 3/11/2006 1:04 pm by booch