Im tiling a basement floor and it has several support cloumns (which have been boxed out) throughout.
I will be using a 18″ tile and i am having a hard time trying to figure how i am going to make the cuts around the columns. There is no way to make the layout land so that some of the columns don’t end up “inside” of a tile.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to handle tiling around these coloumns?
It is going to be a straight run 18 x18 tile job throughout basement.
Mic
Replies
You can make the extra cuts, hope you have a good saw. An option I would prefer is to make a border of small tile around each column. When making a patch, if invisible is impossible, best to make it look as if intended.
Much depends on your client. Mine liked this:
When you say "extra cuts" are
When you say "extra cuts" are you referring to piecing the tile together, for instance cutting it in half to piece it around the poles? Is this also known as a "patch" as you refer to?
I wasn't sure what I was supposed to be looking at in the picture you included?? Thanks for your reply.
couple of options..
You say the columns are boxed out. If you undercut the column trimout to accomodate the tile and setting thickness AND adjust your layout so that the columns fall within a full tile in such a manner as to require only "notching" the tile from the closest edge, then you might be able to avoid a grouted joint cut within the field of any one tile... as well no grout lines around the cloumn trim out.
If that's not possible, then at least make the field cut on the shortest reveal from the column and grout the tile field cut to match the tile as close as possible.
ONE MORE (TRICKIER) OPTION....
There is another possibility that depends on the type of tile being used, trim out conditions, and your tile setting ability. I have succesfully tackeled unavoidable "island" field cuts by first snapping tiles in half, then cutting out the "island" void area by notching both broken halves. I then fit the hairline fracture together around the obstruction with 2P10 cyanurate glue before setting the tile in the thinset bed. The reason I glue it together is to only to give the two halves temporary structure that avoids getting thinset within the hairline fracture as you're pressing the tlle into the setting bed. If you try to press the two havles together dry without glue, you risk them working apart slightly and ending up with thinset in the fracture line that is impossible to get out.. and thereby unneccesarily defeating the purpose.
Many times a hairline fracture is less noticable (sometimes even imperceptable) from that of a grouted cut line. This, of course, depends on the type of tile (pattern, material composition, and fracturing properties) and ability to move the two tile halves physically together and into place. The latter consideration may mean rethinking your base trimout detail(s). Also, If you try this, make sure you work that particular tile first before setting directly adjacent tiles that can make your fit unneccesarily more difficult.
Good luck!
It is almost impossible to layout around existing posts to avoid a column in the middle of a tile. If you are using ceramic tile you can cut one in half with a snap cutter and cut out for the post, then set the the two halves together without a grout line. It will be almost invisible. If you are using a stone tile, or a tile that cannot be cut with a snap cutter, then cut diagonals from the corners of the posts to the corners of the tiles that inclose them grout the resulting joints.
Mic
Take each post and "design" a tile layout that centers on a column. This "column base" will be the same "design" for each column. Use the same tile or something complementary or the same tile and a different size. Cut your field tile to those "column bases".
Start in the middle
Assuming your columns align, you could start the layout on that centerline and work toward the walls. That way, you'd have notches, but wouldn't need to make center holes.
If that doesn't work, I've also used the cyanoacrylate method with decent results.
Thanks for helpful posts. Btw, what is the cyanoacrylate method Andy?
Crazy glue.
:)
What Dan said.
The tile has been changed from the original 18 x18 to 6 x 24 woodgrain style. So, I shouldn't have a "problem" cutting around columns now, as the shortest side is 6 1/4".
I would like to ask if anybody has any techniques they use to snap layout lines while working alone? I have had to do this many times, such as holding down one end with a brick etc... not pretty but effective :)
How do any of you who may have tiled alone handled larger sized layout lines like a basement floor etc...
Bathrooms are simple, even most kitchens, but basements get a bit tougher.......for "me"
Have you tried a laser level? I use this one (which I feel is not particularly expensive for what it can do) http://www.buystabila.com/products/stabila-lax300-proliner-cross-hair-laser-03180?utm_source=google-product-search&gclid=COz40pmqob4CFUMF7AodHC0AEA
Darkened indoor environments (like basements) make these instruments particuarly handy to use.
dead
I use a similar laser from Stabila-a dot (up/down, square front sides). With a target to register the dots to the floor, you are able to shoot the long run and then project the square angle left/right.
Taking the target and marking along the run, you can then use an 8' straight edge to mark the floor.
My line laser from PLS produces the constant straight and square lines if hung from the ceiling. I find it quicker to mark the floor, spray with clear lacquer to hold the line forever.