I know the conventional way is to install flooring perpendicular to joists. But what if the more natural layout is parallel?
I’ve got 8″ engineered flooring that will be installed “floating” — not nailed to the subfloor. I’m insterested in advice, experience, and comments on laying this parallel to the joists.
This is new construction with 3/4″ subfloor glued/nailed to the joists.
Thanks
Replies
Go for it. Subfloor provides pretty much all the structural strength in this case.
Probably doesn't matter in most modern homes with the floor system you've described (assuming 16" oc joists)
Only, maybe, in a big room with little furniture or rugs (or a long hallway) when - once again, maybe - one might see the wavy-ness telegraph through easier if the flooring is parallel to the joists.
It probably matters even less with a floating engineered floor than one nailed tight.
Your Mileage May Vary
Adventures in Home Building
An online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Joists are 24" oc, with solid blocking at 48" oc.
Waviness is not so much an issue; it's a rustic ski house.
Well, heck, if it's "rustic" then call any wavy-ness a feature. ;-)
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Now you're talkin'!!...that's not a mistake, it's rustic
I've borrowed (adopted?) your tag line a lot lately. I had forgotten who it belonged to.
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
I'd put it in the best looking way.
know the conventional way is to install flooring perpendicular to joists. But what if the more natural layout is parallel?
Hmm, my brain wants to "say" subfloor perpendicular; finish floor perpendicular to subfloor. But, then I recall that not so long ago, subfloors were all laid diagonally. That, then, leads me back to a 'nugget' that one installs the finish floor to best suit the space that it is in.
So, the short answer, I'm thinking, is to follow the "natural" layout, especially since this is afloating floor anyway.
Solid sawn subfloors were, indeed, usually laid about 30 degrees away from perpendicular to the joists. That allowed them to put the finished T&G floor either parallel or perpendicular.
The exception is the T&G subfloor used under early linoleum in kitchens. That ususally is perpendicular.
-- J.S.
That allowed them to put the finished T&G floor either parallel or perpendicular.
And, now, with plywood (of some sort) across the joists for a subfloor, the flooring direction over that would seem to be of little consequence.
Visually, running floor boards the "long" way is better; that tends to be perpendicular to the floor joists. Whether the perception of joists or the perception of linearity is "key" to that--I've no answer at all.
The exception is the T&G subfloor used under early linoleum in kitchens. That ususally is perpendicular.
Always made me wonder, then marvel, about the presumed/assumed quality of the subfloor to "take" the longer span a diagonal represents. The planning & fussiness needed to plan the subfloor for the finished floor above is another marvel to me. But, that's likely to be from time spent in remodeling--where nothing ever stays the same. That experience "tells" me to make a floor as a floor entire. If the tile is deeper, build up from the subfloor (not, <shudder> chop out floor structure to have a mud bed <shudder>).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
>>> Visually, running floor boards the "long" way is better;
Except maybe in narrow hallways/corridors, they end up looking even narrower.
The other -- though labor intensive -- approach is to put cleats on the sides of the joists and drop the subfloor between the joists to gain back the thickness of it. In the old days, they sometimes went lower, and hatcheted bevels on the tops of the joists. Cracks tend to form over those, though.
-- J.S.
though labor intensive -- approach is to put cleats on the sides of the joists and drop the subfloor between the joists to gain back the thickness of it.
And some plumber comes along and rips through it all, near oblivious using either of the two approved plumber's carpentry tools--pen knife and hatchet (dull), in modern times that's become sawzall and chainsaw, but that's a cynical observation on my part, not some verity.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
IMO, floating engineered flooring is structurally equivalent to carpet or sheet vinyl. The direction of the floor joists is completely moot in this case. The issue is purely aesthetic, lay it whatever way looks best