Hi,
I know this probably should be in the Knots forum but I’m fishing a bit here. I’m doing finish cabs and ent center for a client in cherry. I’m looking for a source for flutted muoldings to save myself some time ( in cherry) any body know of any?
Thanks
Steve
Replies
This is probably a dumb question, but have you called any local mill shops around you?
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another bad answer but.....I use to make my own in about half hour.
12' boards run through my table saw with a profile blade and the fluted attachment. Then I'd chop em' to lengths.
You probably already know that...sorry
BE well
andy
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That was one way I considered , actually I was going to do it wit a router table set up. I'm try to avoid the errors that inconsitant fench movements. Looks like there's no easy way. Top it all off, I'm working in cherry, those ouches are going to be expensive
Thanks
Steve
I assume you're thinking about stopped flutes, as opposed to through. Through flutes run the entire length of the board and are the easiest; set the fence on the router table, run it through once, rotate the board 180 and run through again for the symmetrical flute.
Stopped flutes require a fairly precise setup, including accurate start and stop points and your fence must be perpendicular to those marked start/stop points, or the flutes will start/stop at different heights.
But you probably know all that. I've looked at various architectural catalogs, but nothing that will fill your need (cherry moldings are usually special order, if available at all.)
By the time you have set up your fence and run the cherry through, you still might not find a source.
Good luck.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Thanks,
I was thinking along those ideas except I forgot the 180 part, you saved me a step!
SG
Built a bunch of fluted moulding recently (for 3 1/2" wall caps) not using a router table. You really can't see what's going on on a table.
I cut my stock to finish width, and left it long on both ends. Screwed a stop to the waste on both ends so the router would stop at the same place each time.
Set up my plunge router with a 1/2" round nose bit and edge guide.
I made a trial piece the same width so I could set the edge guide and depth adjustments.
Set the guide for the outside cuts, plunge it and make the flute, do the same on the other side.
Set your guide (using your temp) for next set, and so on.
As the router hits the stop, the radius on the bit makes a nice smooth end transition.