Replies

1. 
   Frank_"Mad_Dog"_Maglin | Dec 08, 2000 02:05pm | #1

   *
   Jim,

   This may be a long shot, but if you're talking about plain white slab doors and the white laminate is the same white that's used on melamine, you could make melamine replacements and just edge band them.

1. 
   Joe_Fusco_ | Dec 08, 2000 02:55pm | #2

   *Jim,

   If you applied the mica on a sheet of single side melamine, you should always apply a "balance" sheet to the other side. You seemed to have learned this the hard way as I did.As for a "fix" just apply a balance sheet to the other side and hope for the best. In about 30 days you will know if you need to replace the doors or can live with the adjustments you can make in the field.

   View Image © 1999-2000

1. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Dec 08, 2000 08:52pm | #3

   *I don't know what resources you have nearby, but here in the Puget Sound area we can buy 4 x 8 sheets of whatever core we want with whatever plam we want on both sides for about 110.00/sheet. Single sided, with a balancing panel on the back is closer to 70.00/sheet. For that kind of money, I usually just order it laid up how I want it and cut and edge band the doors to size. That's what I'd do in your case too. I'd order balanced sheet goods and replace them. You're gonna spend a lot of time and effort tryin' to fix those doors now. Try calling around to nearby architectural wood or sheet goods wholesalers near you if you don't have a relationship with one now. Even if you had to drive an hour or two each way to get stuff, it still might pay.

1. 
   Jim_Walters | Dec 08, 2000 09:08pm | #4

   *Actually I built the cabinets out of melamine (I couldn't think of the name) Then I used a special design formica to cover the fronts and sides (it looks like birdseye maple.) All the faces are covered also so I: 1. can either totally redo the doors which would mean ordering new "birdseye", new melamine, and shit can the warped ones or:2. figure out how to straighten them. If no one can come up with a better way I'm going to pull the birdseye off the sides, cut a series of 5/8 " slots in the center of the door backs and reglue them on a flat surface. I think it will work. Once flat, I'll laminate the backs. I was hoping I could apply some sort of heat to the back and have them reverse themselves, you know, like a little miracle. :-)

1. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Dec 09, 2000 02:34am | #5

   *Sorry, I don't think that will work. And if there is an architect on the job, and he is savvy about architectural woodworking, he will point out that an unbalanced construction is not allowed in any set of standards (AWI, AWMAC, the California standards); the only exceptions are exposed gables of melamine cabinets, where the panel is prevented from warping by the case joinery, and the underside of countertops, and it depends how picky folks are there....by rights, the underside should have a backer sheet. Which is to say there are exceptions if there is some other restraint to keep things flat; doors aren't such a case. For the sake of six or eight doors, which should have been made with a balanced p/lam construction in the first place (if you are doing it for money, it has to be to industry standards of workmanship, which means balanced construction), there is no question in my mind anyway, I'd bite the bullet and start over.

2. 
   joe_d | Dec 09, 2000 03:27am | #6

   *i thought Joe F's suggestion has merit for a possible fix. Really Jim your proposed fix sounds improbable.I'd try covering the melamine with VG P-lam.joe d

3. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Dec 09, 2000 03:37am | #7

   *I'm gettin' a headache.

4. 
   nigel_martin | Dec 09, 2000 03:53am | #8

   *Stop messing !!make new doors this time with lama. both sides.Melamine is not waterproof, or dampproof.

5. 
   Jim_Walters | Dec 09, 2000 12:41pm | #9

   *Ok I get the message. New doors. I never used malamine before as I greatly favor hardwoods, thought the stuff was waterproof. I did a friend a favor, thought I knew what I was doing (as usual) What the hell, lesson learned.

6. 
   Adrian_Wilson | Dec 09, 2000 02:18pm | #10

   *Melamine is great stuff, in the right place (cabinet parts for example, or cheap edgebanded doors), but you have to abide by the rules....same as veneering: what you do to one side, you have to do to the other. It works as a substrate for p/lam if necessary, but particle board or MDF are preferable.

7. 
   Jim_Walters | Dec 09, 2000 02:53pm | #11

   *Thanks for the info Adrian, (looking for a bullet to bite). Do you have a website? I'll show you mine if you'll show me yours :-) http://www.jjwalters.com

8. 
   Jim_Walters | Dec 10, 2000 01:13pm | #12

   *Ahhh, sorry for the last post. I think it may be against the rules to post websites. Actually I was interested in knowing what E-cabinetry was, never heard of it.

9. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Dec 10, 2000 04:51pm | #13

   *No problem posting web addresses, Jim. Lots of folks post direct links. We're all just sharin' info here.

10. 
    Mike_Smith | Dec 10, 2000 06:39pm | #14

    *geesh, jim, you're an old bugger.......nice site !.....

11. 
    GACC_DAllas | Dec 11, 2000 04:40am | #15

    *God I hate to say this.........MDF slab doors won't warp like plywood. You still have to veneer both sides though.It was tough for me to say that. I really do hate MDF.Ed. Williams

12. 
    chuck_a_crawford | Dec 11, 2000 07:19am | #16

    *baby steps Ed,,,,,,,,,, baby steps

13. 
    jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Dec 11, 2000 08:36am | #17

    *hehehehe

2. 
   Jim_Walters | Dec 11, 2000 08:36am | #18

   *
   I think I f---ed up. Yesterday I got a call from an architect friend of mine. I built a set of eight formica covered cabinets for a fancy bathroom and the doors were beginning to rub. Anyhow, after I checked the cabinets, I found each door was warping (drawing in from the center and sticking out at the top and bottom) about a 1/4 ". I could adjust them ok cause I used euro hinges, but I had to tell the happy homeowners what was happening to their lovely new cabinets. It's only a matter of time before I will have to replace the bowed doors.
   I covered the front and sides of them with formica, but not the back. It had a white barrier that matched the interior of the cabinets so...
   Question is: What's the best way to straighten the doors? A nice easy trick will do. My plan is to esentially slot the back of each one, clamp it to a flat surface, fill the slots with "Aerodux 500" glue and then apply white laminate to the back. Six doors would probably take a whole day to do. I'm fishing for a better way, any of you guys have one?