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I am starting on my sister’s basement this weekend. Going to be removing the half assed insulation job the builder did and install proper insulation and frame out the walls with 2×4. It’s going to be a pretty straight forward job I hope.
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There is the usual number of obstructions that will have to be framed around for drywall – ducts, plumbing pipes etc. I was planning on 2×2’s for that. Is that what is commonly used? I know many builders are probably using metal, but I’d like to stick with what I know for now. I would like to know if there are any tips or techniques that would make a little easier. Pictures would be greatly appreciated.
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Also there is the issue of noise. The first floor joists are 2×8’s 10oc and the noise from the floor is tremendous. The whole basement echoes the noise in the rest of the house. I was planning on insulating the ceiling with Roxul (mineral wool) and drywall over that. I have looked at the z channels. I am not sure if they would be worth the extra cost. Are there any other cost effective ways of reducing noise?
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http://www.quietsolution.com/construction___building.html?google
Don't know anything about it other that what I've read on the website - got a job that is considering using it, 'though. I've got to call my supplier tomorrow A.M. and see if they can get it for me.
Maybe Calvin will drop in here and post some of his metal stud in basement finishes.
Look at the USG web site for light weight metal studs. It is a short learning curve. and yields a less labor intensive job than 2x2 wood framing. Your going to screw the dw to studs anyway, so you may as well screw the framing together too. Framing around obstructions and such is so much easier with metal than wood. A couple of small clamps and some screws, vs pouding nails or srewing crooked twisted 2x2 studs together.
I have use resilient channel for sound reduction in jobs like you descibed. Not a perfect solution, but very dramatic.
Dave
dave, you're in louisville, think about coming up to the fest in Aug.
I use mostly metal in basement finishes. Buck can attest to the ltwt ease of material handling. For going every which way around obstructions, in my opinion........nothing easier, nor more structurally sound.
In most cases for soffiting I'll use 1-5/8's mts studs, track and angle. Hang the facing ladder w/o the bottom track or angle attached. Use a laser to level that bottom pc as you go along and fasten to the vertical studs. Lately I have been spanning the bottom with 1/2" ply, getting even closer to the duct than what a 1-5/8" stud will.
Or, install a wood nailer to the bottom of the joists or blocking (if soffit runs parallel to the joist direction) and hang 1/2" ply rips down from that, again keeping level with the use of a laser.
Here's your pics dave,
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I like to get the soffits as high as possible. A real consideration if this is a standard 8" or 7'-6" basement.
Another option for heat ducting soffits is to use 5/8" DW. that can span 24" and does not require additional bracing. If the span is greater I usually drop a 2X4 "T"ed up to the joists between the two ducts (if possible) for mid span support. I have never back faced the soffits with plywood. Using the same 5/8" DW and 2X2 corners is very strong.
For sound control, the insulation in the ceiling will help but as long as the DW goes on the floor joists some sound is still tranfered down. The true fix is to seperate the floor joists and ceiling, but that depends on ceiling hieght, cost $$ and how involved you want to get.
Good luck.
I usually use 2x3s and scraps of plywood to frame boxes for soffits. If I need to span longer distances (4' or so) under duct work, I use steel hat channel.
Don't forget to use pressure-treated material for your bottom wall plates.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Confused with your posting..." the floor joists are 2x8's 10oc ."
should it be... 2x8 's @16" oc ....or what?
Yes sorry - 2x8 16 OC.
I usually use the plywood method Calvin posted.
I generaly attach a 2x2 to the ceiling, attach another 2x2 to the plywood rips on the horses, then laser the bottom in and staple the top of the ply to the 2x on the ceiling. Can get nice and tight to most obstructions with this method.