Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 04:20am | #1

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   Kyle, my guess is that you have not purchased the pocket door hardware yet. I prefer Johnson, and the company's kit is complete with instructions. You'll supply the king studs, jack studs and header. I don't know if Johnson makes a kit for x6 walls, but it would be a simple matter to add furring to the standard Johnson pocket studs.

   Remember to use short casing nails when the time comes... lots of pocket doors have been nailed open!

   Good luck, Steve

2. 
   Kyle_May | Feb 10, 2000 05:04am | #2

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   Steve, you're right that I haven't purchased the pocket door hardware yet. I have another question - can I start constructing the wall or should I wait and buy the hardware? How expensive is a Johnson pocket door and hardware?
   Thanks,
   Kyle

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 06:54am | #3

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   Kyle, you can build your wall in advance of obtaining the pocket door kit, BUT you'll want to make sure the rough opening is the proper height and width. I don't have any Johnson instructions in my files, and don't have current pricing. Let me just say that the cost will not stop you from buying this product.

   You may be able to e-mail Johnson and obtain the information you need for your rough opening and the name of a local distributor. Give them the door size you plan to use. Plan the height of your rough opening with regard to the finished floor level. See what you can find out here:

   Use the "guestbook" feature at the bottom of their page to e-mail Johnson.

   Good luck, Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 07:41am | #4

   *I asked this question about a year ago and Joe F. and other gave a good explanation complete with pictures. Use the B.T. i search function. Joe had a great method for framing in 2x6 walls.The recomdation at that time was Johnson hardware too. That's what I went with. They come for 2x4 & 2x6 walls. First door took me about 1 hour (including reading all those instructions). By the 3rd one I had it down to about 15 minutes. A few recomdations: 1) Make the top casing and top stop (or whatever you call it) removable on one side (screwed rather than nailed). This way you can remove the door later.2) Make your margin between the pocket hole stop and the door close to and eighth inch just incase the door is not 100% true or warps a bit.

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 08:35am | #5

   *rough opening formula for Johnson pocket door:width= width of door times 2 + 1"i.e. 2/4 door is 57"hieght is 2" taller than swinging door R.O. i.e. 6/8 pocket door frame header is 85" off floorjim

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 08:57am | #6

   *Kyle,We use Grant tracks and trollies. We frame the walls with 2x4's set sideways and sister them up with tube steel for rigidity. Buy the hardware first and set the header height to suit.Good luck,Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 11, 2000 08:26pm | #7

   *What is the detail for the tube steel to 2x4? I have a few doors that we framed without the studs in the kit (just bought the track). We used 2x4 on the end like you mentioned - but there is jsut a bit too much play in them for my liking - the tube steel (I was thinking of using some angle) sounds like a good fix - but I can't picture how you marry them up? Pipe straps?John

2. 
   Guest_ | Feb 17, 2000 05:20am | #9

   *Kyle, Not really a framing issue as such, but you may alsowant to look at the roller assemblies available fromJohnson & Co. A few years back I installed a ratherheavy oak-with-glass-lites door. I didn't want to takeany chances with rollers that might not hold up over thelong haul. I noticed that Johnson sold some heavy-dutyroller assemblies, so I used them instead - they may havecost me an extra $10 or $15, but the mechanism has heldup well and that heavy door moves at the touch of a finger. Good Luck ! Ed

4. 
   Kyle_May | Feb 17, 2000 05:20am | #8

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   What is the best way to frame pocket doors in both 2x4 and 2x6 walls? Any advice would be appreciated.