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What kind of fish are in that stream? Any fish left east of the Mississippi?
Ours are fading fast with no trees to shade them when their tiny, and big obstacles that chop them into little bits as they try to get to the good spots to feed.
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What kind of fish are in that stream? Any fish left east of the Mississippi?
Ours are fading fast with no trees to shade them when their tiny, and big obstacles that chop them into little bits as they try to get to the good spots to feed.
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Replies
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I'm building a free standing garage/shop. Foundation, slab & bolts are in & now it's time to frame the walls. I know I need to put down a treated 2x4 mudsill on the concrete. My question is: Do I use that treated sill as the bottom plate for my wall, or do I build the wall using another 2x4 bottom plate & then tip all of that onto the bolted down treated sill? If so, what do I do with the nut & bolt sticking up from the treated sill? Any advice deeply appreciated.
*Which one you do is pers. preference. Some say it's easier to put down the treated, then set the wall to it. In that case, make sure the sill is right,straight and square. Counter bore the bolt/nut in the bottom of the wall plate a little oversized so it doesn't interfere setting the wall. Best of luck.
*Cal's advice is right on, though you gotta watch those browns fans for accuracy now and then...It's not as tough as you may think. When you lay out your wall plates, position them above the mudsill and give them a whack with a framing hammer, the bolts will leave a dent in the wood, then just take a spade bit (a bit larger than the diagonal width of the nuts, again as Big Cal said) and bore a tad deeper than the height of the bolts. If you placed the bolts nice and vertical, the holes should line up nicely. But test these plates before you nail everything together.MD
*Depending on sheathing/siding detail your framing plane might or might not be flush w/outside edge of slab. If it is, and you choose the mud sill/fir sill approach, place these two sills on the slab against the anchors so that they stagger 3 1/2"(or actual) + a little at the corners. This will allow the sills to lap (not nearly so important here as at the top- but good habits are contagious.) Now, with sills positioned as they will be in life, tranfer center lines from the anchors across both sills. While you're at it, measure from edge of slab to ctr. of bolt and transfer this measurement onto the center-lines you just struck. I drill slightly oversized holes in the mudsills to allow for adjustability (and to avoid having to use the ash-handled persuader which has an unkind way with a fresh, young, unstrong slab.) That takes care of the mudsill- now chuck an 1/8th" bit and drill down through the X on the bottom plate then TURN IT OVER, now counter-bore here for the bolt/washer/nut with a Forstner or Milwaukee bit. This done, cut a matching top plate, run your stud layout simultaneously by placing top and bottom plate side by side and scoring across; place studs on their marks and build the wall. Before you raise it, nail a couple of blocks to the outside of the mudsill to catch the bottom as you raise the top. Nail the fir plate to the mudsill temporarily with duplex nails. Once bracing is in place, the duplex can be pulled and the wall can be positioned stresslessly and accurately with 16d galv. or stainless. It's extremely important to remember that the only thing the thru-plate stud-nails do is position the studs. It's the exterior and interior sheets lapping from sill to plate to stud to plates to hurricane ties to rafter/truss to schedule built roof that defies the forces of nature. Shearwall corners and let-in bracing do a similar job. In my opinion it's superior to use the mudsill/fir plate option especially from the perspective of fastening along the interior base, which may or may not come into play on your project.
*Jim G,You framing this yourself or you got help lifting the wall?
*JimI'd lay out the pressured treated bottom plate (marking and drilling anchor holes), then remove them, lay next to top plate, mark stud locations on both, nail wall together on floor (in sections), lift sections over anchor bolts, and then place washers & nuts. Don't forget to put down a sill seal.Vince
*Sell the tools...near the stream,aj
*Jim,It's fine to use the PT as the bottom plate. You don't need two bottom plates.Have a good build,Ed. Williams
*What kind of fish are in that stream? Any fish left east of the Mississippi?Ours are fading fast with no trees to shade them when their tiny, and big obstacles that chop them into little bits as they try to get to the good spots to feed.
*Fishing good....perch, trout, striper, bass....Eating my friends catch weekly, near the stream,aj
*Thanks for the input. The walls are going up tomorrow if it doesn't rain.Jim