hello all:
I’d like to fill in a space with windows between an existing wall that is 7′ high and an existing 1/12 pitched shed roof. Currently that space is open along the existing wall (it is enclosed on 2 of the other sides) and the roof is supported by steel columns that continue all the way to the concrete slab (floor) or die into the top of the wall.
Ideally, I’d like to frame just enough to “visually’ frame and structurally support the windows/roof. My main question is how to frame above the windows to distribute the roof load around the windows, as the geometry does not allow space for a conventional horizontal header.
This type of design is not uncommon on mid-century modern houses, and in fact a house around the corner from me has this same arrangement. I’m just not sure of the structural logic. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Please see attached PDF for a drawing.
Many, many thanks.
Best,
Andrew…
Replies
Greetings k,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
Build your header into the roof framing (such as a double LVL or appropriate lumber) and support the header at the ends by the walls below. It does not seem like you would have much load depending on your location. I guess you could consider it a structural rafter-not that uncommon.
Thanks for the advice. It's true the load consists of the roof alone, as here in Dallas snow is not an issue. The dimensions of the header/lvl would just be determined based on the same span if it were horizontal, right?Also,a follow up/clarification, (and response to Joe's apt question about roof support)...As I mentioned before, the roof is now supported by 3 steel posts along that exterior wall. Since the roof framing (2x12 rafters) is currently successfully spanning the 9' distance between these posts, would enclosing the space with windows require additional structural buildup (headers etc.) to be sure no load is transferred directly onto the windows? Or could I assume that the roof load is adequately transferred to the ground, and mere/y frame the open space to accept the windows? In other words, aren't the overall structural requirements the same if the wall is open or enclosed with some glass? Sorry if I am making this more complicated than it needs to be. As always I appreciate the insight.Best,
Andrew...
Since the roof framing (2x12 rafters) is currently successfully spanning the 9' distance between these posts, would enclosing the space with windows require additional structural buildup (headers etc.) to be sure no load is transferred directly onto the windows?
No, since you have 3 vertical posts going up underneath the end rafter. I framed an addition this past summer where I had a shed roof with 16' rafters. The whole wall was (3) 4' stationary panels with a trapezoid window above with the top of the window down from the bottom of the end rafter which was a 5-1/2" x 9-1/2" microlam.Joe Carola
What Joe said. It sounds like the steel columns support the side wall and therefore no bearing points in the window area.
Bruce
I'd like to fill in a space with windows between an existing wall that is 7' high and an existing 1/12 pitched shed roof. Currently that space is open along the existing wall (it is enclosed on 2 of the other sides) and the roof is supported by steel columns that continue all the way to the concrete slab (floor) or die into the top of the wall.
Ideally, I'd like to frame just enough to "visually' frame and structurally support the windows/roof.
Why do you think that you're supporting the roof?
I assume this is an exterior wall, providing partial enclosure to a porch. No additional roof support would be necessary, but it is concievable that wind loading could become a factor, but given the size of the building, I think it would be fine.
Make up the jambs so there's room around the glass. Don't pinch it too tight. Ask how or have the glass guys set the panels. Tip the sills, flash and seal well and you should have a trouble free installation.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I second what Calvin said. Make sure the jams aren't transfering any deflection of the rafters through to the glass. You can do the same thing with a head jam for a door. You don't shim between the header and the head jam. Same idea.
Calvin,The jambs should always be at least 1/2" away anyway for the rough opening.Joe Carola
Exactly Joe, rough opening larger than the jamb, jamb larger than the glass. Just like any window/door opening in the house. Because the owner is bldg it doesn't change the sequence and sizing of the openings.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks Guys,This pretty much clears things up for me. I thought there could be an issue with roof deflection. I thought extra framing might address it completely. It makes sense that the top side spacing between glass and jambs and jambs and framing takes care of it instead. Many, many thanks for the insight.Best,
Andrew...
I guess I was late to this party.But just for info - to others as well - a lot of the window comapnies will detail for wind loading for you when you are doing an entire wall in windows - or any large portion of one
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From what you describe in this post, the roof has rafters supporting it over that end wall so it is not loiad bearing except for wind load laterally or sheaar load
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