During very hard rains, water runds down the sides of my sheet metal flue into my furnace room. Standing in the attic, I can see a sliver of daylight between the flue and the flange that surrounds it and connects to the roof decking. What material can I use to seal this thin gap? The flue passes through the roof about 10 to 12 feet above where it leaves the furnace. Is there maybe some kind of flange that is used for this purpose? I have roofing membrane and asphalt roofing cement, but was wondering if the flue might get too hot for these. Thanks
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Take a look at http://www.hartandcooley.com/vent/all_vent.htm and look at their b-vent installation guide. There is many pictures worth many 1000's of words.
See the attached pic. You should have a storm collar and the storm collar should be caulked (It shouldn't get hot enough that silicone caulk won't work) to the pipe.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
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"(It shouldn't get hot enough that silicone caulk won't work)"
Do not use anything other than high temperature (1000 degF) rated sealant for anything that exhausts a fuel burning appliance.
If the outside wall of a b vent gets anywhere near 1000 degrees F the house is probably already on fire.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
From the Hart & Cooley site you posted a link to earlier:"Use roof cement or RTV silicone to seal the storm collar to the outside of the pipe."
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
I just got off the roof and there is no storm collar. The flue cap is pretty much shot too, just barely hanging on. So I guess I'll head out and pick up these items. Thanks a lot for all your advice guys!
>>The flue cap is pretty much shot too, just barely hanging onIs it (and the flue) pretty rusty?Take a close look for signs of dripping condensate at the joints in the flue, under the water heater draft hood, and coming from the bottom of the draft inducer.A rusty flue and cap is often one sign of poor draft and potential backdrafting and carbon monoxide problems.If you see any of those other symptoms, you need a good HVAC to check things out. I recommend looking for one trained in CO Analysis &/or combustion analysis by the http://www.NationalComfortInstitute.com - call them for names at the 800 # on their web site.
Youth and Enthusiasm Are No Match
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I'll check it out. Thanks for the suggestion.
the reason for the storm collar is to shed water off the roof jack top fitting. if you were to try caulking the pipe to the roof jack, it would pull apart because the pipe willl expand and grow in length as it heats and cools.
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Good pint. I did not consider that the flue might move a bit. I put a bead of caulk around the top just until I can buy and Install the storm collar. Hope to get it on this week. Thanks
What kind of furnace: "natural draft" - 80+, 90+ ?
A natural draft won't have a small fan connected to the bottom of the flue (usually behind one of the front covers.)
A 90+ will have a fan and a bunch of small tubes (1/2" +/-) draining water away from the vent and/or fan.
And what kind of vent material?
Single wall? Double wall B-Vent, PVC?
(Double wall will have indented bands above at each flue section connection)
Youth and Enthusiasm Are No Match
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Where does the Bergsteiger name come from? Are you from Germany, Austria or Switzerland?
Martin
I am an American, however I lived in Germany in three different places: Wiesbaden 1956-58, Worms, 1982-92, and Garmisch-Partenkirchen 1997-2000. So I spent quite a lot of time in the Alpine regions and did a lot of hiking and a bit of climbing.