*
I am considering having a local contractor install a standing seam roof with either the Galvalume or the regular galvanized steel, the galvalume is slightly higher in price. Does anybody have any experience with the galvalume and if so is it any good. Live in a heavy snow area, no salt air. The contractor runs a silicon caulk along every seam prior to bending,no leaks according to him if it ever ice dams?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The RealTruck AMP Research Bedsteps give you easy access to your truck-bed storage.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
I have a galvalume roof on my house. Installed it myself. It looks good and performs good. But it isn't standing seam. I wish it were, just for looks (but it still looks good).
I professionally install standing seam roofs now.
They are great for snow climates. Many such places in Oregon mountains have metal roofing.
Depending on your roof pitch, the caulking might be appropriate; in case there is ever standing water which would rise above the crimped seam.
One advantage of the galvalume is that it won't fade.
Kevin
*
I've had a galvalume roof by BHP on my studio for the past ten years. The only place we used caulk was at screwed or riveted lap seams at corner flashing and where flashing sections were coupled. The roof panels snapped together side by side and were ordered full length. I was so impressed with their Klip Rib system for my studio, that I'm now installing their Skyline Roofing on my new house...again very little caulking. One of the secrets to a water tight standing seam, is one that is very open. If a seam is actually crimped tight, water can syphon through the seam...it only needs to get started. I've seen it happen in other situations. Believe me, water can run uphill.
David
*
Also I find that the snap-lock system is easier to install than the crimping sytem.
Kevin
*
Is there a web page for BHP? bhp.com is someone that stole the domain name.
I am not familiar with the system you mention, but Please tell me - I assume these are what's called a concealed fastener metal panel. One edge of a panel is screwed down and another locks into it along one edge, then the other gets screwed down, and so on. There are disadvantages to these systems that standing seam, pan and batten, and concealed clip systems have - and that is thermal expansion. The standing seam (field crimped) is the cadillac of systems and to compare snap-together panles with it is not apples to apples in terms of wind resistance, life span, water tightness or cost.
-Rob
*Call up BHP and get the specs: 1-800-272-7023I've never had a leak and about 600 sq.ft. of my roof is 2:12 pitch.David
*
Gentlemen; Probably should have been more clear when I started this, that both types would be standing seam. I presently have a sheet aluminum roof,approx.3x8 sheets nailed down on the high points with aluminum nails with washers. It leaks occasionally. I want a standing seam and the contractor does either the galvalume or galvanized. They both come in rolls and it is crimped on the roof,prior to crimping two sheets together he runs a bead of caulking down the area that is crimped. I am wondering if in 5-6 years the caulking will have shrunk enough to allow leaks? Anybody want to make a prediction?
*
The crimped seam system is inherently leaky via syphoning. My father was in the sheet metal business most of his life. When I mentioned wanting a standing seam roof on my shop 10 years ago, the first thing he said was, "be careful to include an air break in the seam otherwise it could syphon water". Possibly the syphoning starts with condensation from the underside. Ask your contractor why it needs to be caulked. I'll bet he's had some leakers.
David
*
What is the proper way to flash a center chimney
abutted by a standing seam roof?
*
Paul
I don't quite follow your "abutted by". . . but I do raised rib galvalume roofs and I always build a square chimney chase into the roof (a simple 1/2" ply. box will do with the necessary clearances built in for the chimney pipe) and flash it to the roof metal with stock 'side wall' and 'end wall' flashings. With careful and logical overlay of flashings and roof parts, and judicious placement of fasteners (sometimes using pop rivets), and silicone caulk as an added precaution under each flashing, one can achieve a waterproof seal no matter where on the pitch the chimney is situated. I finish off the chase with siding to match or roofing material and use a stock 'flat roof'cone chimney flashing and bend the edges over the siding on all sides of the chase.
The alternative is to hack up the roof metal trying to flush fit the roof flashing cone and relying on massive amounts of roofing tar and good luck for waterproofing. I've made a few bucks replacing these arrangements(?). They never fail to fail!!!
*
I am considering having a local contractor install a standing seam roof with either the Galvalume or the regular galvanized steel, the galvalume is slightly higher in price. Does anybody have any experience with the galvalume and if so is it any good. Live in a heavy snow area, no salt air. The contractor runs a silicon caulk along every seam prior to bending,no leaks according to him if it ever ice dams?