Replies

1. 
   MojoMan | May 13, 2003 11:14pm | #1

   I would try heating it with a torch and using a very large wrench. Good luck!

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   steve | May 14, 2003 01:49am | #2

   its pretty unlikely that you will break the pipe in the wall, thats tough stuff.

   heat and big pipe wrench

   if you do break the tee, its not a disaster, cut the pipe back a few inches and use an abs or pvc with rubber hubless joints

   in fact might be easier to do that anyway and dont bother trying to undo the nipple

1. 
   ripmeister | May 14, 2003 04:19pm | #4

   Thanks for the advice.  I considered your suggestion of cutting back the pipe and inserting a new PVC tee with the rubber couplers.  What is the best way to cut this stuff as I have never worked with it before.  Thanks again.

1. 
   IMERC | May 14, 2003 07:36pm | #5

   Sawzall will get it.

   Try tighting the nipple a tweak - fuzz first. That'll generally break the seal / crud loose.

   Use the banded repair type hubless connectors. Much stronger and less deflection. 

1. 
   ripmeister | May 14, 2003 09:32pm | #6

   Thanks  for the help folks.

2. 
   steve | May 14, 2003 11:59pm | #7

   sawzall with ametal blade

1. 
   JohnSprung | May 15, 2003 01:43am | #8

   You could cut it with an angle grinder or a sawzall.  If you have one but not the other, use watcha got.  I have both, and generally start with the angle grinder because it cuts a wider kerf.  If there are parts it can't reach, I finish the cut with the sawzall.  Its blade slips easily into the grinder's cut.  In confined spaces like attics and crawls, the little grinder is often a lot easier to use.  I haven't done the math, but my guess is that the grinder cuts more square inches of cross section per dollar than the sawzall.

   -- J.S.

3. 
   JohnSprung | May 14, 2003 02:50am | #3

   Very likely it's threaded -- mine are.  Instead of WD-40, there's a much better product called SiliKroil, from Kano laboratories in Nashville, TN.  If anything can release the threads, that will. 

   But this being galv. drain, be prepared for it to crush and crumble when you put the wrench on it.  It can look OK from the outside, but be rusted paper thin on the inside.  Strange things can happen given 80 years, I had a section of vent that looked like new inside and out for about 340 degrees, but a segment of about 20 degrees was rusted through from the inside for a distance of a couple feet.

   -- J.S.