Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 02, 1999 07:29am | #1

   *
   yes, piece of cake !
   Use a truss for the upper section , and sit the truss on your gambrel knee wall. Suppose you want 18" of cellulose in the attic, then from the top of the kneewall plate you have a little mini-gambrel that continues the same slope and plane as the lower section of the kneewall for 18" vertical and then breaks to the lower pitch of the upper roof.
   It's just like building an energy heel on a regular gable roof truss.
   If you want to frame this instead of trussing it. Try this:
   Draw a section with a 10' ceiling line in your gambrel 2d floor. Now drop a ceiling joist to the 8' ceiling ht.
   The 2' area between the high ceiling and the low ceiling is your insulation area. Now eliminate the upper framing with your eraser. Ta- da !

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 02, 1999 07:57pm | #2

   *Thanks Mike.Is this what it should look like(see attached file.Gaby.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 02, 1999 09:13pm | #3

   *Not quite:Draw a cad line horizontal across the top of your kneewall plate.Now draw one parallel to that 18" down (or whatever the depth of your insulation).Now move EVERYTHING above the lower line up 18" to get the ceiling height you had before.AND move the kneewall plates out so they bear under the truss ends or under the new ceiling rafter intersection with the lower roof rafter. Move things around until you have the depth at that intersection also so you have room for insulation there and ventilation moving from the soffit area to your ridge vent.You have to play with different combinations of pitch to get an attractive gambrel roof. One tradition (rule of thumb) is that all 5 points of the roof fall on the circumference of a circle. There are good looking exceptions to this rule, but try them out. This extended gambrel puts a lot of roof on the lower pitch , so you have to break it up with dormers, eye-brow windows, or other interesting features. Lets see what you come up with.BTW: what program are you drawing in and how are you getting it into your message?

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 01:06am | #4

   *Gaby,

   You might also think about increasing the rafter size to 2 x 12. Or, you might really want to become creative and use TJI at 14" or 16" depths to really "kickup" the R-Value. This maybe be a good option because they might be "less" expensive to buy then solid 2 x 12's.

   Joseph FuscoView Image"Whenever, therefore, people are deceived and form opinions wide of the truth, it is clear that the error has slid into their minds through the medium of certain resemblances to that truth." Socrates

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 02:17am | #5

   *Thanks again.I'm going to try some stuff out tonight.I'm using Autocad R14.I change my background to white, the geometry and text to black(using the "preferences").I then export the file to .bmp(select export in the "file" menu).I then call up the .bmp file in MS Photo Editor(any picture file editor would work) and re-save as a .gif file to keep the Kb down.The .gif format works fine since it's only black and white.I may have run into problems concerning my main beams(30 ft) today.I just got a price quote on the sizes that I need (3k+ for LVL's).Way out of my budget.I wanted to span 30ft long by 20ft wide with no support columns.I guess I have to re think things.I'll let you know.If you guys have any other ideas, I'd really appreciated.BTW Mike if you want to try importing files into your post and you have problems, let me know and I can guide you through.I can E-mail you a procedure if you like.Frustrated as always!!Gaby

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 02:27am | #6

   *Hi JoeTJI seems to be really jacked up in $ around here.I'm using 14" for my floor joists because of the 20 ft span.I'll take your advice and compare prices for use as rafters.Thanks.Gaby