Replies

1. 
   AVR | Jan 24, 2011 12:40pm | #1

   not sure but

   Great question, I'm not really sure of the answer and run into the same issue with my trim work.  Looking forward to reading other's answers.

   I'm thinking a possible solution may be to store the trim in a room with a dehumidifier for 2 or 3 days before installation.  Kind of like how you're supposed to let flooring material get acclimated to the environment by leaving it in the rooms it is to be installed in for a few days prior to installation.

1. 
   kalats | Jan 24, 2011 01:37pm | #2

   Nice option

   Sounds like a good option.  But in this instance, I really didnt have the heating/AC working when the trimwork was being installed. 

   What about caulking it?  Or is that bound to be another problem, namely the finished look...

   Just curious what you guys typically do?

1. 
   AVR | Jan 24, 2011 02:42pm | #3

   I always caulk my joints.  after paint it looks great

2. 
   toolpouchguy | Jan 24, 2011 08:20pm | #5

   if we are using painted trim we usually caulk any where wood meet's wood 

   wood meets drywall 

   a very small bead and use a small putty knife to remove the excess so you can't see any caulking 

   and after we are done we tell the homeowner to watch the humidity in the house ,add if required and remove if required 

2. 
   bd | Jan 24, 2011 05:20pm | #4

   too late for this now

   Next time I'd suggest cutting a small rabbet in the top of the jambs for the header to sit in. Doesn't take long.

3. 
   calvin | Jan 24, 2011 09:12pm | #6

   I take it you mean jamb legs/head?

   Caulk that interior joint.

   A rabbit would have helped, or screw those jambs together.

   Trim to jamb, run a bead along that as well.

   If you're talking other trim...............

   caulk and paint make for what a .......................

4. 
   markthecarp | Jan 26, 2011 03:25pm | #7

   I agree with caulk that joint that has opened up. Two passes, let the first one dry and shrink, will give a nice finish.

5. 
   chunkmonk | Jan 26, 2011 07:44pm | #8

   gaps in trim work

   you can use caulking , and I use a piece of formica 1"x2" to scrape off excess , clean scraper with a damp cloth. Let dry . It probably will shrink on you and you may have to hit it again . As for trim , to late now but for future reference, Backprime,Backprime, Backprime, glue and clamp joints wherever possible.

1. 
   wannaknow | Jan 27, 2011 11:41am | #10

   what is backpriming and what does it do?

1. 
   calvin | Jan 27, 2011 11:54am | #11

   wanna

   Backpriming is usually associated with exterior wood products-to seal from water penetration and to stabilize the wood in the extreme environments.  Not so sure it's necessary for interior woodwork.

   And if the caulk shrinks, then that's pretty much one heck of a gap or bogus caulk.  To near permanently hiding movement gaps, use a good elastomeric caulk like one of the butyls or urethanes.  They bond and stretch and probably will have less chance of showing up in another seasonal movement.  Both are hard to work with but do the job.

   Painters caulk at a buck a tube does not fall into that category.

2. 
   DanH | Jan 27, 2011 06:14pm | #12

   Backpriming is priming the back.  The theory is that coating the back helps to stabilize the wood and keep it from warping.  Not clear that it would do that much good in this case (though it certainly wouldn't hurt).

6. 
   DonCanDo | Jan 26, 2011 08:47pm | #9

   Could you be more specific about header/jamb termination butt joints?

   I'm unable to picture what kind of joints you're talking about.  Do you mean where the casing is mitered?

   If you really mean the jamb, then aren't the leg jambs attached to the head jamb?

7. 
   Grantdawg | Jan 28, 2011 03:42pm | #13

   I like to use biscuits or pocket screws and plenty of glue to join all butt joints--less sanding required, perfect alignment and less movement.