Hi, I’m installing two garage doors in a barn that I built. It’s a timber frame barn so I needed to have a sizable frost wall (10 inches thick). The frost wall sticks up about 18″ above grade; I wanted the bottom of the posts to be up off the ground. When framing for the door, does the framing need to be flush with the inside of the frost wall? I was going to use 2 x 6s, but they would be recessed in 4+ inches on the wall. I’m afraid if they aren’t flush, the door track won’t have enough clearance. I do have a 9’6″ opening for 9′ doors.
Thanks for any advice.
Joe
Replies
You typically frame the door opening the size of the door. A 3/4" board is normally used around the perimeter and often a weather strip or band on top of that. The tracks have to go to the floor. The tracks are held out by the brackets. Most often, the opening in the concrete is kept back 3" on each side, allowing two jacks to run from the header to the floor. The concrete won't interfere in this case. If your concrete is not wide enough, you can increase the thickness of the wall around the perimeter by adding framing flat ways or whatever it takes. This will require a wider board around the perimeter setting the door a little deeper.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I use a 2x6 or 2x8 treated, usually wrapped with aluminum. Since you have a 9'6" opening and you need 9' you are good to go. As already mentioned, you need 3" on each side for tracks. Just fur out 1 1/2" then add your 2x6. The top is less critical, just make sure you are maximum ht. no taller than the nominal ht. of door,preferably 1" less
Joe,
We always have 8" block above grade and then our 2x jambs go past them and then we nail 2x's to the jambs (we call them goal posts) and then they bolt the tracks to them.
Here's a drawing I made a few years ago.
He has a 10" wall, so like you I would just rip a 2x12 to the wall thickness and add the back band for the track. If he set his post to the outside edge of the wall he will need to add some blocking on the inside to support the band the track attaches too.
Couple things to add......I generally shrink the opening to 1-1/2" wider in width than the door; 3/4" stock will put it at the correct size, as others have pointed out. I put a 2x4 "buck" on the flat, flush with the finished r.o. on the sides, and a 2x10 or 12 on the top of the r.o. This give the door guy a solid member to attach to, without his screws falling , in some cases, between two jacks, or in an area that's been shimmed. On the top, it gives a solid anchor for torsion spring. As far as the bottom, I always leave my framing material 3/4" up from finished floor el., so water can't wick up behind the cedar, azek or whatever the finished trim is.
Bing
Edited 12/27/2008 10:15 am ET by Bing187