Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Jan 02, 2003 09:17pm | #1

   I'm by no means an expert, but I'm guessing you have 2 problems. First is that the door probably isn't designed for an opener. They should come with reinforcing that can be added for this purpose. The reinforcing you're planning on adding should help with this.

   Second - Why is the door binding? Try opening and closing it with the opener disconnected and see if you can figure out what's wrong.

   Also - Make sure the rollers are lubricated.

   Q: Why do doctors slap babies' butts right after they're born?
   A: To knock the pen!ses off the dumb ones.

1. 
   PeteBradley | Jan 02, 2003 09:41pm | #2

   Boss,

   The latest time, the door bound up because the lag screws holding the track loosened up, causing the track to catch the .  This isn't normal, but I would hope I can get it so that when something unexpected happens, the opener stops before pulling the door apart.

   I'm also curious about the correct  opener attachment, since this will affect the force applied to the door frame.

   Pete

2. 
   IronHelix | Jan 02, 2003 10:23pm | #3

   Pete..............

   As per Boss Hog's suggestion....make sure the door works smoothly without the opener's assistance.  Adjust, align and tighten the rails.  Balance the springs to the door's weight so that lifting/opening is with only a moderate amount of initial effort and a little follow thru effort to a completely open status.  All effort to be one handed and without strain.

   Then attach the opener trolley.  Adjust the tensioning device on the opener to automatically shut off when you manually impede the doors operation.  This may reduce the rip-out effect of an overly strong pull from the opener...as well as a safety aspect on the downward closing of the door unto an obstacle, car, pet, or a child.

   In the upper section of the garage door there needs to be a metal bar strut  and or an internal wooden brace that will distribute the opener's force across a larger area and eliminate the rip-out. I have attempted an attachment.

   ........Iron Helix

3. 
   PeteBradley | Jan 03, 2003 06:47pm | #4

   Did some measuring and checking last night.  It looks like maybe the doors were installed in a rush or after a hard night of drinkin'.  Both tracks misaligned, the verticals aren't close to plumb, and one of the rollers was installed cockeyed.  It's a practially new house; I never thought to check.

   Thanks to Boss for the obvious question!

   Pete

4. 
   PeteBradley | Jan 06, 2003 07:55pm | #5

   For the benefit of the archive, here's how I fixed it:

   1. Checked the track alignment.  Readjusted so that there was proper spacing between them and they were parallel and plumb.  This made a big difference to how much force was required to open/close the door.

   2. Put a steel stiffener in the top of the door that tied the opener attachment to the side rails.  I used half channel (comes in 10' lengths at your favorite big box home center), it would probably have been easier with angle iron.  Reinforcement would not be necessary if I had a good-quality garage door, and I probably could have put in a new door in the same amount of time.

   3. Attached the opener at the same height as the top roller. 

   4. Tightened the springs slightly to compensate for the additional weight of the door.  There is some potential risk to this operation, so if you're not sure what to do don't attempt it.

   5. Readjusted the opener.  Front and rear limit switches had to move, and I was able to turn the open and close force adjustments way down.

   The result is the door is much quieter and works really smoothly.  In the long run though, the doors are really cheesy and probably I'll replace them.

   Thanks to all,

   Pete

1. 
   BossHog | Jan 06, 2003 09:14pm | #6

   Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. Always nice to hear that some advice from here was useful.

   Just FYI - A lot of what I know about geerage doors I picked up here...........I love cats...they taste like chicken.

5. 
   EricS | Jan 07, 2003 04:13am | #7

   Sorry this is such a late response but ...  Genie's definition of the "top" roller is the highest roller on the straight section of track.  The "real" top roller is likely on the curved track leading to the horizontal track.  I had the same question a month or so ago and their tech support finally said that the install manual was in error and offered to send a later version which I declined.

   Glad to hear that all worked out well.

1. 
   bhackford | Jan 07, 2003 06:29am | #8

   I found out the same thing by trail and error.  Just sent the opener as high as it can go.  It sound s to me like two problems mis-aligned track and opener support rail too low.