I was at a new build home today that the builder and the HO have parted ways. Long ugly deal, I don’t know who is right or wrong but have been asked to finish up a few things.
One is the garage door. The wall the garage door is supposed to go into is not yet sided or finished. It is framed currently with a rough opening of 15′ 6″ X 85″. I can’t seem to find any info on a rough opening for a new door.
I was thinking it should be 16′. In this case you would have to strip it all out except the king stud the header is resting on to get to 16′. The header is 16′ 4″ total in length. I hate to have the header sitting on only 1 2X on each end but maybe this is my lack of knowledge. Guess I could and run extra studs and blocking on the back side.
So if this is all true and 16′ should be the rough opening I can rebuild it in total or if I remember correctly other than appearance it doesn’t matter what the opening is because the door is just behind the opening anyway. The guy is short money now as the builder was ahead on his draws so this would be a money saver if we can use the existing opening. Thanks. DanT
Replies
At first I was thinking "oops, they used a 16' header" but you answered that question.
The overhead doors actually sit fully inside the garage, if I'm not mistaken, and can therefore be used with the smaller opening. Not ideal, especially if they will park two large vehicles in the garage, but will work.
Yes you can use the door inside a small opening. Not easy as it sounds but can be done. If you go this route make sure you get backing for the track mounting in place first .
Another alternative is to order a smaller door. Many companies will custom cut for you.
Best option? Talk to a garage door installer.
The header MIGHT be O.K. sitting on one stud - Depends on the amount of load it carries.
It would also depend on your codes, which may require 2 cripples for openings over a certain dimension.
If the wall isn't sided or finished I can't see any reason not to tear it out and do it right. Why live with a wrong sized door opening for many decades just to save a bit of time?
Agree with Dovetail, talk to the garage door installer and get his blessing. No point in corking him.
15' 6" is pushing it even if you did install a custom door or install a standard door and hang it in, which is possible.
Boss is right and the information about the loading is important. If this is in a gable wall, it might very well be okay to install this with just 2" of bearing on each side on the jacks. Additional Simpson hardware could help carry more of the load too if needed.
An alternate method would be to use the 1 jack on each side but laminate another lvl header inside the opening and support that with jacks on the flat. Quite often, there is that much lumber added as support material to hold the garage door hardware.
Of course the other alternative is to remove the entire header and replace which isn't really that big of an expense.
Local large G door manufacture in SLC, size it to what you need.
Extended Size Availability
MARTIN'S sizing is available in most 1" width and 3" height increments. We make your door to fit your opening, right down to the inch, without delay.
http://www.martindoor.com/residential.htm
I just reread your first post and had another thought.
Here is my solution. Look into Simpson Strong Tie Concealed Flange( or inverted flange) beam hangers.
Stand a 4x 4 post (4x6 if a 2x6 wall) (With hanger attached already ) where the king stud is and with minimal removal of outside sheathing for access to the hanger for fastener application you can hang that header if the loads are within the acceptable range for the hangers.
You don't say what size the header (4x12, 6x14 etc) is but Simpson makes a huge variety of these style hangers ( IIRC they will even custom make to specs when it comes to their welded ones, just cost $$).
Now you can correctly size the opening to 16'3" which is what a standard 16' residential overhead garage door should be rough framed to (concrete to concrete) , assuming 2x stock for final door wrap.
Depending on location and BI involvement it may take some other engineering but I don't think so .
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/C-2008/C-2008-p083.pdf
Good info. I see what everyone is saying. The header is a 3" X 12" LVL is what it appears to be. Just 16' even. But the simpson idea seems doable. It is on the gable end so the load should not be huge (should ha ha ha). So I will look at it again and price it accordingly. Thanks guys! DanT
There are hangers just for LVL's.
No need for structural trimmers with the hanger.
What is the length of the header? you gave 16' and 16'4".
if 16'4" then you have it made in the shade.
if 16' even then use 3/4 surround material and the door opening will be all of 1 1/2" small. Not unheard of trust me!
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Sorry, long day yesterday. 16' 4" was the number. DanT
Like dovetail said; You can order a cut door. I made that mistake on my shop door, I just pulled out the receipt- they only charged me 75 dollars to decrease the size.
-Lou
I would first call the garage door guy or talk to owner and see what the actual size of the door is supposed to be, no one has ever specified an exact RO for me on a garage door they just give you the actual door size. Maybe they wanted a smaller odd size door.
Then I would make framing right size for that I think I usually go even with the door size for RO. If 16' door make opening 16' then with your trim maybe 3/4 jamb material and 3/8 door stop on each side your 2 1/4 smaller than door looks good even if just coilstocking the jambs (then less the RO 1") your covered with 3/4 combined door stop. Covers the door good and solid framing to fasten the track to.
You will look foolish if standing inside and door is 6" bigger than opening, even worse if the door has some decorative panels that will give you away. plus if the door is that much bigger, than are you outside good framing to fasten tracks too? I would still put 2 jacks under each side if possible (even on gable end) just because of mass of header.
The simpson idea is a good one too if the header is a little short but you really need to verify the door width with someone.