Gas pipe connections in a gas assist fireplace
PPajor
| Posted in General Discussion on
Im raising the hearth in my gas assist fireplace and need to remove the piping that feeds the gas fire under the wood logs. I plan to turn off the gas at the source, remove the threaded perforated pipe and cap it off, leaving a stub for potential future use depending on the remaining pipe and new height of the hearth. Ive worked with black pipe before, but was wondering about connections that are literally buried in hot coals. Are standard black pipe and pipe dope OK? The current pipe comprises threaded pipe and elbows. Thx Pete
Replies
DON'T leave a "charged" gas
DON'T leave a "charged" gas pipe there in contact with the coals.
If needed, disconnect this branch from the supply at an "earlier" location in the piping system. Cap the charged pipe off there.
Remove as much of this run as you can. But don't leave any gas in the pipe that will be heated by fire.
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This is a new one on me. Help me think about this.
Would the original piping to the log lighter have been buried in hot coals at times?
Where was the control valve located? Was it inside the firebox or was it operated by a key or other means that made sure the pressurized portion of pipe upstream of the valve was never in contact with coals?
You see where I'm going with this: will what the OP proposes be substantially different than what he had before in regard to a pressurized pipe being heated?
Yes, a pipe with a series of holes sits beneath the log grate, flames shoot up and light the real wood logs, so no need for kindling. THe control valve, with a key, is in the floor well outside of the firebox. I plan to do-away with the gas feed, make fires the old fashioned way. And raising the floor of the fire box means I have to disconnect/remove the current gas system. I have access to the gas line the feeds the fireplace (in the crawl space).
Are you planning to raise the floor of the firebox or just the hearth?
Why would the truncated gas log line be under hot coals? Most gas log lines come in from the side of the firebox. Does your line come up from the floor of the fire box?
Presumably you have a gas valve on the wall somewhere that shuts off gas to the fireplace? If that valve shuts off completely [test it first] you can let the remaining gas in the line disperse before you cap it and there should be no problem.
I plan to raise the brick floor of the firebox, which extends 20" into the room, which Im calling the hearth. Its flush with the floor -- I like the raised look better and plan to add a couple courses of brick and a cap stone.
Its a gas assist firepplace, not gas log: gas flames serve as kindling to light wood logs. See my previous reply.
My question is how do I cap it: with pipe dope and a threaded cap? The existing pipe in the fire box is threaded. I still plan the shut the gas supply off at the source, make sure the line is empty etc. Just want to cap it.
If the gas is turned off, back at the source, then you should have no problem.
My suggestion would be that you leave the pipe that is in the fireplace, alone.
Then go back to that turnoff valve, remove some pipe, right after the valve, and cap it off there, instead.
You asked:
>>"My question is how do I cap it: with pipe dope and a threaded cap?"
And you mentioned earlier (I think) that you have access from beneath, to the piped that feed this fireplace susbystem.
Assuming that those pipes are threaded black pipe, then yes, use a pipe cap and thread sealant.
Some cautions......
Be sure to use a black-pipe cap.
Be sure to use a thread sealant that is approved for gas piping.
And be absolutely certain to verify that yo have no leaks when you think you're done.
Start by turning off the main gas valve to the home. Check for leaks by turning off the valve at each appliance that uses gas -- the valve that is closest to the appliance if there is more than one.
Close no other valves.
Read your gas meter -- take a picture of the guages if that might help.
Turn the main gas valve back on.
Wait 20 or 30 minutes, and read the meter again. If the meter moved even a little bit, you have a leak.
Good luck.
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Since you have access to the valve and piping in the crawlspace, the preferable thing is to cap it off in the crawlspace. You would shut off the valve, bleed off any residual gas in the line downstream of the valve, and then use a hacksaw to cut the iron pipe downstream of the valve, back out the cut section so that you can install a nipple and cap (not a plug) in the female threads of the valve itself, or a female fitting, like a 90, that is downstream of the valve.
I hesitate to recommed having a capped line in the firebox because it's almost certain that the valve will leak in time, and allow gas into the line with the cap in the firebox. Maybe nothing bad would result, but, if it were mine, I wouldn't take the chance.
Why a nipple and cap instead of a plug?