Replies

1. 
   danski0224 | Jan 19, 2006 02:33am | #1

   Generators only work if you are home. Then you have to keep enough gas on hand to make it through the timeframe you want to. Oh, and the noise unless you get one of those quiet inverter setups.

   3kW should run a furnace, sump pump and a few lights- but not all at once. The bigger the genset, the more gas it uses.

   Or you can get one of those natural gas fired setups.

2. 
   PeteVa | Jan 19, 2006 03:00am | #2

   Here in central Va a 5-8Kw gen set installed with and automatic transfer switch costs from 6-10k installed. They a not noisy and can be equipped to run on any fuel you choose.

3. 
   ponytl | Jan 19, 2006 03:03am | #3

   with 5 outages in less than a year...  for less than 2k (less than 1k if ur cheap and handy)  i'd go for a min 5k... since it keeps ur heat on I'm guess'n just power for the blower?  if thats the case and you have natural gas  I'd go for a natural gas powered unit... Generac  has enclosed units with switchgear and auto test and battery charge for around 2k... 

   options...

   gas ... but most hold 6gal or less and thats 2-3 fillups a day...  thats $40 a day easy... they'll do the job I've run my 5k Kabota for 2wks non stop  and it held us over... we didn't miss much....  4-5 extenion cords... but u have something to take on jobs... in the woods ...lend to friends... (took 2 yrs to et one back once...)

   diesel...  might cost a little more on the front end.. but best i can tell uses about 50-60% of the fuel my gas one does... and if you use fuel oil to heat... u can run it in the genset

   natural gas... it  pretty much becomes attached to the dwelling... and if you shop well and handy and have nat, gas  besides the comfort of knowing it's there I think you get 100% or more back on the sale of the house...

   whatever you do  I like running 100% syn oil... easier to start... will last longer ... and i know mine run ALOT cooler with it...

   I have a 4k onan (like they use on RV's cept this came off a bucket truck) that got crushed by the tree the dude was cutting from the bucket... had to be a classic sight to see when it happened... That i plan to convert to Natural gas... I prob won't go the auto switch and auto cycle... but it's a nice quite well made unit that should be alot better than nothing...

   p

    

4. 
   JohnSprung | Jan 19, 2006 03:05am | #4

   The Honda 5k's are relatively quiet, reliable, and very difficult to kill.  They're used in the motion picture industry for big night exteriors, more cost effective than running a lot of cable for that one light off in the distance. 

   They should give you enough for the furnace, fridge, TV, and a couple lights. 

   See the other threads about transfer switches vs. extension cords, and the critical importance of not backfeeding the utility's lines. 

    

    

   -- J.S.

    

5. 
   Stuart | Jan 19, 2006 03:35am | #5

   I agree with the others, you probably want a 3kW unit or larger.  If you go to the Honda generator website at http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/gen.asp, there's a wattage calculator to help you figure out what size you need.  I imagine other companies have similiar features on their websites.

   Speaking of generators, tomorrow I have to go out and watch the startup of a 650kW generator set on one of my construction projects...it's at a municipal water treatment plant, to provide backup power for the well pumps.  Now THAT's a generator.  :-)

6. 
   junkhound | Jan 19, 2006 04:04am | #6

   I have 5 different gen sets, here are some case histories for your perusal.

   a. Sears circa 1975 vintage 1800 W that is at son's house, enough to keep fridge/freezer, and TV/radio and a few light going in rotation.  The 'transfer switches' are simple SPDT light switches, center to the outlet, one side to the genset plug in, the ohter to the panel CB. Dont ever shut this baby off without knowing it is on a compression stroke or the next time you want to start it a valve will be stuck in an open position.  Not fun.

   B. 1944 army surplus 4 kW at the cabin - hey for $100, it works, but noisy. Carbon brushes, not for long term usage. Weighs about 300 pounds, probably had been in the Battle of the Bulge for the dings on it.

   C. JC Pennys 3 KW  Techumsah engine bought at garage sale -- how many carb kits has this thing eaten.  About burned down the garage 12 years ago when the glass bowl on the fuel filter fell off during a 2 day run during power outages just feeding extension cord.

   summary of a thru c and also having an 11 HP engine driven pressure washer - in the small engine category, anything but a Honda engine is a frustration, believe me.

   D.  6 kW 400 Hz setup, driven by 5 HP 60 Hz motor, not much use during a power outage!

   E. Think from your previous posts you are pretty handy and knowedgeable, so will add this one in. Caution - this is not for the average DIY, needed lathe, welder, oscilloscope, and frequency meter to set this up.

   Present setup for house is a gen set with a 1965 1200 cc Datsun engine driving a 10 kW Noth. Hydraulics Taiwan generator..  The engine drives it at 1200 rpm via chain drive, so relatively quiet.  You do have to know a little bit about elec systems and feedback stability to put this type setup together.  Some of the pros probably will croak, but transfer switch uses the 200 A main panel breaker - put an auto steering column key and lock setup on the main breaker (the main breaker has to be off to get the key out) and that key (only one key) is needed to start the gen set and close relays; like a car, if the key is removed from the gen set the engine stops, etc. Without the key up at the house, the main breaker cannot be closed.   (will NOT show plans due to obvious liability, etc.  If one can figure this out, they know enough to make it safe, if not, nobody wants to tell anybody else how and have them miss a critical step in the setup and cause a hazard - see similar post on the ebay guy)  Setup is on a trailer also for mobility.

1. 
   dgbldr | Jan 19, 2006 04:18am | #7

   put an auto steering column key and lock setup on the main breaker

   Is that code in your neck of the woods? :)

   DG/Builder

2. 
   Stuart | Jan 19, 2006 04:46am | #8

   Sounds like a Junkhound version of a Kirk Key interlock.  ;-)  I've used them a few times for interlocking main and standby circuit breakers where a regular manual transfer switch wasn't going to work.  No problems with the electrical inspector.  http://www.kirkkey.com/

7. 
   Scott | Jan 19, 2006 06:25am | #9

   The first big question is domestic vs Japanese. In my experience the Japanese ones are quieter and last longer, but they are way more expensive. My power goes off only about 2 to 4 times a year, so I went for the 5kw Coleman. I couldn't justify a Yamaha or Honda for something that runs less than 20 hours a year.

   5kw isn't that much power, but it will run the well pump and a couple of fridges and a few lights.

   I installed a manual transfer switch. Relatively cheap and effective.

    

   Scott.

   Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”