Can it possible be this easy?
I have a 5000 watt Honda EB series generator and an oil fired two zone furnace in my home. In the event of a long term power outage I run my refrigerator and chest freezer as needed with extension cords. I am looking for a way to power my furnace in case of a long term winter outage.
I was trying to avoid the use of a transfer box due to its cost and the fact I can do everything I need now except the furnace through a cord. This is the solution that I thought of and I would like your comments on the feasibility, safety and legality of doing it.
My furnace is on a dedicated 15 amp circuit breaker. My plan would entail cutting the romex that leads from the furnace to the electrical panel and installing a mail plug on the furnace side and a receptacle on the panel side. During times of commercial power the furnace would be plugged into the receptacle. During outages the furnace could be plugged into the rated receptacle on the generator. There is no issue with back feeding. The furnace would be run like this every few hours just to maintain a livable temperature and to allow for hot water for quick showers.
Comments and criticism on this idea?
Edited 8/30/2002 11:01:53 AM ET by CIMARRON8889
Replies
" livable temperature and to allow for quick showers."
Better hook up the water heater too, if ya want them showers.............(-:
I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury.
Well, that's the down side of electronic ignition on water heaters, isn't it? I wouldn't own one. Between the complexity factor and the power outage factor, I think it's easier to just pay for the gas I run through the pilot light.
That's how I've got my own heating system wired for the same reasons. And since my is such low current draw, I could just run it off an invertor from the car's battery.
So just as you said - cut the romex run, introduce a receptacle and cord with plug. Then you will automatically have the disconnect function when you plug it it into the generator.
A hint to save your power cords and receptacles on the generator: Try to use switches as switches. Rather than using extension cord plugs as switches. For instance, turn down the thermostat before plugging in the furnace. Then, use the thermostat to start the furnace normally. Especially with the fridge, you want to avoid the large arcs that erode the contacts on the extension cords and the receptacles.
Hooked up son's house with 6 each 3 way switches located next to the main power panel. Center leg of switch to loads (fridge, freezer, microwave outlet, furnance, 2 light circuits). One side of switch to regular panel circuit breaker, the other side to a sub panel connected to the generator with 20A single 240 breaker for 3.5 kW generator. Lots cheaper than transfer switch and meets code.
I would suggest you place this question on one of the better electrical forums.
I believe that the heater is designed to be hard wired and changing it to a plug and receptacle method could violate code. But I am symphathetic to your situation.
As for using the three way switches to transfer loads, this does nothing to switch the neutrals. That is, the neutral of the generator would be directly connected to the neutral of the power company's transformer. Do not play games with the lives of the linesmen.
Also be sure your generator is properly ventillated. There was a little story in Fine Homebuilding about a generator i a garage and the door was propped open but it blew shut and the fumes ended up killing a man. So take care there.
-Peter
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
-Groucho Marx [I attribute these things.]