I wish I would have read the posts about how long Tyvek lasts….
-Mine has been up for as long as a year … and some of it is degrading… rip it off? Or, can I just go over w/ new Tyvek [or TYPAR]?
-I plan to use Hardie w/ AZEK trim… will the nailing flange on the Andersons give me any trouble when I go to case out the windows… i.e the unlevel surface?
Thanks fellas-
-Ryan
Replies
Best to rip it off and start fresh.
When casing around windows with nailing flanges, I typically rabbet the backs of the casings to accomodate flanges. 3/16" deep by 1 1/4" wide does the trick.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Just curious as to why you think it's better to rip it off. How does the old stuff underneath hurt the drainage plane?
I'm not contradicting you, just wondering.
Not knowing the actual condition, I'm assuming its pretty beat up. Having a nice clean surface on which to install the new would be a personal preference.
Also, Tyvek is meant to "breath". I'm not sure that a double layer would allow such. (Ya might wanna see if there's something on their website....manufacturers installation instructions perhaps.) It might even act as a double vapor barrier, which is typically a no-no.
Beyond that, I'm still rather "old school". I prefer roofers felt in general.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
JD- The double-vapor issue is something that concerns me... I think I'll pull it off. Plan to put tyvek on b/c I sorta feel I need whatever energy savings I get out of the windbarrier. I've got an old cape-cod [Maryland] .. plaster inside... rockwool insulation... and plank sheathing... didn't put any insulation on the outside when I put in the windows.
Would 15# felt be just as good as tyvek the next go-round? It does appeal to me because I'm working alone... and its easier to handle... and, on the new construction part of the house, where I'll have to hit the studs for the hardie... it will be easier to mark 'em.
Thanks JD-
15# felt should be fine.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Okay... that is a great suggestion! Thanks JD!
-Ryan
roof... we used to rabbet the backs of our casings.. now we use shims of grace to level the area around the nail fins of the windows
our typical casing is 5/4 x 4 Miratec sides & 5/4 x 6 tops
under our fibercement siding we use 30# feltMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Okay... you use Grace Vycor or something to build up to the level of the fin?
Also, you'd go w/ 30# felt... and just staple it up... no taping or anything... right?
Mike... do you have any leads on where get those adjustable downspout brackets you pictured a while back... and your favorite fascia hangers?
I'm getting ready to do gutters too and I'm not sure if the authentic look of half-rounds outweigh the simplicity of k-style... what are your thoughts?
-Ryan
roof... i got them from M&J Supply
i always get them from M&J, and i've never seen them anyplace else
my invoice says : Alco anchor clip & screw RT235
i don't know if that is an Alcoa piece or not
i pay $2 EACH ( ouch ! ) and i buy them 50 to a box
as for the gutter. if you need gutters and want a nice appearance.. i like to use a 6" K-style and install a bed molding UNDER it
with a 6" and the bed molding it looks like a crown molding .. also , since it's 6" you can install it level with longer distance between the downspouts.. keeping it level makes it look more like a cornice detail also..
i can't post pics on this computer.. but if you search you might find some we did a couple years agoMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Okay... great... that's where I'll get them. One last question on the bed molding... I found the pics you posted a while back...
- You basically use 6" K-gutter and put a piece of composite crown up underneath?
- I only have 6" of AZEK fascia to work with... I'll probaby run out of room eh?
- Assuming I've got the first bullet right... what do you do when you get to the downspout... just put a return on it an run it back to the fascia?
Thanks for the idea Mike!
-Ryan
Why 30# felt on a vertical surface?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
not real sure on this.. going with my gut.. the 15# felt is just not as heavy as it used to be.. tears pretty easy
i feel more confident with the 30#
we have 3000 sf of 6" Hardie to install, so that means about 15 rolls of 30# or 8 rolls of 15 #, that's about $100 more for the 30# felt
hmmmm..... what to do, what to do ?.. tell you what, we start with 30# , probably stay with 30#
BTW, we're paying $14.57 / roll for felt wether it's 15# or 30# ... what are you paying ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Not real sure what the goin' rate on felt is round here. One of those...gotta have items that I don't bother price checking.
I haven't noticed any tear problems with the 15#.
Being as its lighter, and there's more square footage, I always just figured I was saving trips up and down the ladder workin' with the 15#.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
we also get the 30 to lay flatter .. be interesting to hear what others are doing..
i just figure the felt is pretty important as a primary rainscreen/flashing element so i went to 30 when i switched from a few trial runs with TyvekMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Unless it is all puckered, I would just go over it.
But don't you ever read instructions for products you aren't familiar with? Says right clear that thirty days is all it is designed for.
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I guess you don't either ;) This is direct from the manufacturer's website:
"DuPont suggests that Tyvek¯ be covered within four months (120 days) of installation."
Lord almighty!you coulda saved me a twenty minute download by just saying they've upped it to a hundred a twenty days now. That's still a long ways short of a year, ain't it.
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Just givin you a hard time. You know FAR more about construction than I ever will...
LOL, Apparently, I've forgotten more too!
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...you coulda saved me a twenty minute download...
Piff, you gotta replace them pigeons with an electronic Internet connection of some sort...
DG/Builder
I hang my head in shame Piffin... a year seemed a bit long... and at this point, as a weekend warrior I consider it and expensive insurance policy... I'm going to pull it off and put up roofer's felt as I do the Hardie Siding.... can't bring myself to wrestle that stuff another time! And I've learned a good lesson... read the fine print!
Tarpaper just as well if you cover it soon.I felt bad a couple years ago leaving Tyvek open for nearly five months through the winter. Now I find that four months is OK anyways - but it was so shredded by wind that I still redid it.
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Sure... between the UV... and the wind... the stuff doesn't last long! Once it comes down I'll be right behind it w/ the tarpaper and Hardie!
-Ryan
Unless it is all puckered, I would just go over it.
I'm with you on that.
I suggest Tyvek "Drainwrap." It's the same stuff as their "StuccoWrap." The wrinkles will give you a little bit of a drainage plane behind the siding.
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